ww12345 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 Anybody know why there are two different versions of the Yuki 7206 bracelet available on the website? Here's version one: http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6784664/7752471.htm Here's version two: http://www.yukiwatch.com/catalog/item/6784664/9161248.htm Ready to buy (another) but don't know which is better. I bought back when there was only spring vs. non-spring. I wonder if version two has better endlink fit and can take gen springbars... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I suspect a mistake on Yuki's part. You might ask him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serafino Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 I don't think it's a mistake. One is called Version 2. I've been wondering about this too just hadn't got round to emailing about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Just heard back from Yuki - the difference is "the logo on the clasp." I looked, but they look the same to me; does anybody else see differences between the two clasp logos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akira Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) One could have a more open mouthed coronet The other one rather flat But hard to tell from the pics... Edited March 16, 2012 by Akira Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeKa Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 V1 to me looks more closed mouth and not as sharp. V2 is too open mouth for me but has sharper outlines. Dee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zeleni kukuruz Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 V1 to me looks more closed mouth and not as sharp. V2 is too open mouth for me but has sharper outlines. Yepp. Dee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I see what Akira sees, but sheesh... It's not as if the main complaint with Yuki's 7206 was the clasp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I know. I didn't even know there was a difference in clasp logos. Which would be the most accurate for early '60s? I agree with LHOQQ - the problem with the Yuki bracelet was not the clasp logo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJKapsberger Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 (edited) The crown on V2 looks sharper to my eye. Yuki told me this week that the max bar width is 1.8 mm. What problem would a 1.8 mm bar present in the 2 mm hole of a 5512? Would the slightly thinner bar actually work okay? Would it damage the 5512? If a 1.8 mm spring bar would work okay on a 5512, I'll get one of these bracelets. Edited March 16, 2012 by JJKapsberger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 The problem isn't the bar itself, it is the endpins. IIRC, the endpins are much smaller than gen lugholes, and don't fit at all. That's why you need the bigger springbar. If you aren't faint of heart, you can bend the inner portion of the springbar holder to fit gen springbars, like I did. It is definitely scary, but it can be done. Another option is drilling out, like I had JMB do with my first bracelet. From the gens I have been looking at, I think the V1 is more correct to the rivet bracelets on gens. I don't know why they developed a V2. :? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJKapsberger Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Can one use 1.8 mm bars with wider end pins? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted March 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 I suppose you could, if you could find them. Really is just easier to either drill out the endlinks or widen them. It is pretty easy to do if you have a drill bit that is just the same size (1.8mm) as the springbar - just stick it in and wiggle it around a bit until you've widened the hole to 2mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted March 16, 2012 Report Share Posted March 16, 2012 Be aware that the inner rings in the end links through which the springbars slide also hold the end links to the 1st links in the bracelet. Widening/stretching those rings will also tighten the hinge between the end & 1st links, which may leave your bracelet both weakened & ill-fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted March 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 Not to disagree, but that is not the case. If you think of the end link part as the springbar holder, it is shaped roughly like a figure 8, with the opening at the middle point of the eight. Stretching one side of that eight, making one loop (that which holds the springbar) larger, you are actually making the end link fit looser. It still may weaken it, but it does not tighten the end link fit. I'll see if I can take some pics to illustrate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serafino Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 Freddy documented his observations about this bracelet pretty convincingly in some earlier threads. If there is a workable solution to the problem it would be nice to see it documented. In one of those threads someone claimed there is such a thing as a 1.8 mm bar with 1.2 mm pins, but they linked to a set of multiple sizes of bars sold by Offshore and there are no specs for what is in the set. Offshore was not able to confirm that such a bar is in that set. I think it would be worth a try to turn down a regular bar and see how close you could get to 1.8 mm before it becomes uselessly fragile. Even if you could only thin it half way it would be that much less that the bracelet has to be modified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwgforumfan Posted March 27, 2012 Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 I've heard the Yuki can be a hit or miss in terms of quality. Has it improved with the v2? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ww12345 Posted March 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2012 OK, I've got one on order. When it gets here, I'll try to do a walk through of how I fix them by widening the springbar holder. The other method, used by JMB, drills out material to fit the springbar in. I've used both, and both bracelets are holding up remarkably well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsea Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 I was stupid enough to buy the version 2 The clasp doesn't close, the spring bars don't fit and the end links are too big Don't waste your money Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 The clasp doesn't close, the spring bars don't fit and the end links are too big Ugh... At least Yuki processes refunds quickly. Can you explain how the clasp doesn't close? Are there parts that are out of alignment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsea Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 The hinged rear pieces of the clasp are thinner than the same sections on my gen oyster bracelet. I'm guessing these got bent at some point or were fabricated incorrectly resulting in an incorrect curvature which in turn has altered the effective length which is turn (take a breath) has effected the friction clip that holds the clasp closed. A simple problem but once bent into the correct shape those hinged pieces will never regain their original strength which may result in your beautiful vintage piece dropping from your wrist. Not worth the risk IMO. It's going back and I'll save a few more bucks for a gen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akira Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 Just bought the V1, since V2 is out of stock anyways. To me the V1 coronet on the clasp looks more like the genuine clasp around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lhooq Posted April 12, 2012 Report Share Posted April 12, 2012 It's going back and I'll save a few more bucks for a gen Yikes! Genuine 7206s are dearer than more than "a few more bucks"! Thank you for the explanation. Hell of a sentence, but I understand what you mean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milesd Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Let me know how you make out with the V1. Do you think the offering of NDT is the same bracelet? I'm looking for a bracelet for my 6536 build and don't want any issues. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woof* Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Not to disagree, but that is not the case. If you think of the end link part as the springbar holder, it is shaped roughly like a figure 8, with the opening at the middle point of the eight. Stretching one side of that eight, making one loop (that which holds the springbar) larger, you are actually making the end link fit looser. It still may weaken it, but it does not tighten the end link fit. I'll see if I can take some pics to illustrate it. I have a real nice rivet bracelet that came on a rep I bought. Ive never had a yuki to compare it with, but I have many rep rivet's and this is the only one with genuine construction like the yuki has. I made the mistake of trying to open the holes to accept 2mm bars. I used a tiny punch and just slowly forced it through. I got the bars in, and when I installed it on a watch, the endlink fit is all wrong. The endllinks fit perfect before I did this I sent it along with some other work to Jmb and he manipulated them and got them better, but they are still off. Such a dissapointment! This is a really nice bracelet too. It's a stretch fit with spings that my jeweler had resized for me the correct way with pins too. I implore you to not do what I did, you might be lucky but you'd be better off sending it to Jmb or someone to drill out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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