Don't want to cut the feet

[omgiv]

Hi Guys,

I want to build an economical 5513 but want to use a genuine dial. I have big issues with having to cut off the dial feet to use it with an ETA movement. I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to drill holes in the ETA movement for a Rolez dial. I don't even know if it is possible or where to start, but it would save me from having to buy a 1520 or cutting feet. Thanks!!!!

[redwatch]

Perhaps using the smaller ladies ETA 2678 automatic movement that was used for the BK WM9 v2 would be an option? You could then drill the correct holes for the gen feet on the movement holder? TC had a post about that over here and perhaps TC could even sell you a movement holder and movement that would work? I would imagine the movement holder would need some modification in order to be used in a 5513 case (not sure but I am just guessing on that one)

[omgiv]

Thanks for the recommendation. That may be an option but I would like to use a low beat movement. Perhaps there is a low beat version that is similar in size. Will look into that. Thanks again!!!

[HartDoc]

I've asked TC about keeping the feet on my gen dial. He says its a no go for now. But he said he is going to keep looking into it.

[automatico]

"I was wondering if anyone has ever tried to drill holes in the ETA movement for a Rolez dial."

No, but I have mounted a 1530/70/75 dial on a Bulova 11BLACD with the dial feet still on it. I made a template (looked like a 4mm thick flat washer) out of aluminum with holes matching the rolex dial feet and used it as a guide to drill holes in the Bulova plate. I did not try to drill and tap holes for dial foot screws but depended on the case clamps to supply tension to hold it all together. You might also use a couple dial dots to hold the dial in place until it is all clamped together.

I also used this method to put a quartz Eta 256.031/2 into a tutone Ebel Sportwave that originally had an unmarked Eta that sells for $300+ (I paid $40 for the doa watch and the replacement movement was about $70). The Eta 256.031/2 has the dial foot holes at different locations and the detent button is on the dial side so now I have to remove the minute hand and dial to get to the detent button to remove the stem/crown and movement. The dial, hour wheel, and hour hand all stay together and fall off when you turn the watch upside down, this takes about 5 minutes including removing the 5 bezel screws and crystal. The watch originally had a two piece stem and you dropped the movement out complete.

With a rolex 1530/70 dial on an Eta 2824/36/46...one foot is where the balance wheel spokes are and the other is where the train wheels are. You might be able to use a no date dial with short dial feet along with a taller canon pinion etc and a calendar spacer to keep the dial feet from hitting anything but I never tried it. I just took a quick look and went to the 11BLACD. Using an Eta calendar movement will probably complicate things further.

[highoeyazmuhudee]

youre just gonna have to do it. ive tried to avoid it as well, just cant.

[omgiv]

Thanks for the help gentlemen! I truly don't want to cut the feet, so I may just get a NTD dial instead. Maybe I will play around with that one and see what I can come up with. Thanks again!!!!

[mymanmatt]

Before you do anything, check to make sure the feet are far enough apart for your overlay to clear. Good luck