omgiv Posted May 5, 2012 Report Share Posted May 5, 2012 Okay guys. My original plan was to do a budget 5513 with an eta movement. I have a nice genuine t<25 luminova dial and hands on the way and was planning on clipping the feet off of the dial and fitting the hands onto the 2846 movement. I think that I have the cannon pinion and fourth cut to size, but I need to do another hour wheel because I am a bonehead. I had my measurements off from somewhere. I have been thinking about it waiting on the dial and hands to arrive, and I just don't like cutting off dial feet. So far, I have an older MBW 5513 case, genuine T19 crystal, genuine dial, hands, insert, and I also have an extra genuine retention ring. My original plan was to use the eta movement, MBW bezel, and MBW bracelet. Would you spend the extra money on a movement or just put it together. I could probably swing a genuine bezel prettily easily and would probably add a genuine 93150 at some point. I am "supposed" to be saving up for a genuine 1680 but my ADD keeps me distracted So....would you get a 1520 or just use the eta? I guess the real test will be to see if the hands fit my movement. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlydog Posted May 5, 2012 Report Share Posted May 5, 2012 Find a 1520 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lionsandtigers Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 +1 on the 1520 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Ditto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milesd Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Yep, gen movement. Sent from my mobile phone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 You guys are killing me. Not even one vote for the eta :) . Looks like I'll be looking for a 1520. If anyone has any leads on a hacking version, let me know. As always, thanks for the opinions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akira Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Just buy a gen 5513. No way I would sink $3000 in a rep case for a watch that costs $4-5k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchguy2 Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Put an ETA in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 (edited) Everyone has to choose for themselves what is the 'best' for them. For me, I'd have to agree with akira. Spending even $2,000 for a rep is too much when I can have a gen for $4,000. Last week there was a Rolex 6542 on Ebay that sold for $4,111. The dial was wrong, hands wrong, the movement and case looked right. I thought about bidding, rebuilding it correctly and churning it. Those listed at $48,000 are a dream, but I think getting $12 to $15K would be about right. But to own and keep? Not for me. I want to wear my watches, and I want the convenient functions. The Old GMT doesn't hack and the GMT hand is not independently settable. It would be a pain as an everyday watch. A good modded rep at under $800 is more practical for me. But that's why we like to have choices. I have read online that the ETA 2892-2 and ETA 2893-2 are every bit as good as their Rolex counterpart. I read some say the ETA was better. I don't know. I own an ETA 2893-2 and love everything about it. I missed the part where you mention the ETA 2846. I now have two with that movement, one was NOS, non hacking that I put in my 6204. The other is in my 6542 now. I bought it used on Ebay for $24 shipped. Serviced it myself, modded it to GMT and added the hack lever. It runs and runs and runs, and has gained 2 seconds in over a month, wearing it everyday. I love that movement. Edited May 6, 2012 by JoeyB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valty Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Just buy a gen 5513. No way I would sink $3000 in a rep case for a watch that costs $4-5k +1 The 5513 is pretty "cheap" in the Rolex vintage world. Making a franken is not worthing the cost IMHO. Plus there is a lot of 5513 for sale these days... Just my 2 cents Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freddy333 Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Just buy a gen 5513. No way I would sink $3000 in a rep case for a watch that costs $4-5k +1 Generally (prior to having purchased any gen parts), I would have said exactly the same thing. However, since omgiv has already acquired the gen handset & dial, it makes more sense to fit them to a gen movement than to modify them to fit an ETA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted May 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 I know that it has been done before but does the case need any modifications before fitting a 1520? The case I have has an L serial number. I decided to go with a genuine dial and hands because I found a matching set for only a couple of hundred dollars more. It seemed like a logical step to go genuine at that point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
preacher62 Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 Just buy a gen 5513. No way I would sink $3000 in a rep case for a watch that costs $4-5k +10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Star69 Posted May 7, 2012 Report Share Posted May 7, 2012 1520 how you come to $3000 for the build - $1500 sounds more realistic imho cheers, Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 I have pretty much decided to go ahead and use the 2846 instead of buying a 1520. I thought about it over and over again and I just don't want to spend that on this project right now. I would probably spend at least $1000 on a 1520 movement and would probably also need a Phong case since my case houses a 2846. I would rather save those funds and go for the genuine 1680. Anyway, all of the hands seem to be fitting 2846 without modifying the hands at all. I need to work a little on the cannon pinion a little more, but the hour and second hand fit perfectly. Since I am using the 2846, that means that the dial feet must go. I am using a dial spacer between the dial and movement to get the hands at the correct height. I have a junk NDT dial that I have been playing with. I have used dial dot to secure the dial to the spacer ring and that works pretty well. I was wondering if anyone had any great ideas of a way to secure the spacer ring to the movement. I have a pack of dial feet and was thinking of retrofitting the dial feet back on but have not done that before and don't know if it is possible. I am just looking for an easy way, that is not harmful to the movement, to secure the spacer ring to the movement. Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted May 9, 2012 Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 This is one way: http://www.yukiwatch.com/articles/article/7390084/160035.htm I solder two pieces of brass stock to the spacer ring at each indentation inside of the ring so as to clear and seat on the movement. Then while in position on the movement, I epoxy the back of the dial to the ring, positioning it correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omgiv Posted May 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2012 Thanks for the tip. So you have dial feet secured to the movement and soldered to the spacer ring? Is that correct? I don't have any experience with soldering. I may try the Yuki method on my junk dial or try your method on some extra spacers. Thanks again!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeyB Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Yep, lightly sand to clean the areas to be joined, use flux on both pieces where you want the solder to go. Just a little solder, I cut off a sliver with a razor blade and a very little heat. I learned how to solder here: http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=123646&highlight=harris The principle is the same for most soldering we do on reps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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