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5513 Dilemma


omgiv

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Okay guys. My original plan was to do a budget 5513 with an eta movement. I have a nice genuine t<25 luminova dial and hands on the way and was planning on clipping the feet off of the dial and fitting the hands onto the 2846 movement. I think that I have the cannon pinion and fourth cut to size, but I need to do another hour wheel because I am a bonehead. I had my measurements off from somewhere. I have been thinking about it waiting on the dial and hands to arrive, and I just don't like cutting off dial feet.

So far, I have an older MBW 5513 case, genuine T19 crystal, genuine dial, hands, insert, and I also have an extra genuine retention ring. My original plan was to use the eta movement, MBW bezel, and MBW bracelet. Would you spend the extra money on a movement or just put it together. I could probably swing a genuine bezel prettily easily and would probably add a genuine 93150 at some point. I am "supposed" to be saving up for a genuine 1680 but my ADD keeps me distracted :)

So....would you get a 1520 or just use the eta? I guess the real test will be to see if the hands fit my movement. Thanks in advance.

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Everyone has to choose for themselves what is the 'best' for them. For me, I'd have to agree with akira. Spending even $2,000 for a rep is too much when I can have a gen for $4,000. Last week there was a Rolex 6542 on Ebay that sold for $4,111. The dial was wrong, hands wrong, the movement and case looked right. I thought about bidding, rebuilding it correctly and churning it. Those listed at $48,000 are a dream, but I think getting $12 to $15K would be about right. But to own and keep? Not for me. I want to wear my watches, and I want the convenient functions. The Old GMT doesn't hack and the GMT hand is not independently settable. It would be a pain as an everyday watch. A good modded rep at under $800 is more practical for me. But that's why we like to have choices.

I have read online that the ETA 2892-2 and ETA 2893-2 are every bit as good as their Rolex counterpart. I read some say the ETA was better. I don't know. I own an ETA 2893-2 and love everything about it.

I missed the part where you mention the ETA 2846. I now have two with that movement, one was NOS, non hacking that I put in my 6204. The other is in my 6542 now. I bought it used on Ebay for $24 shipped. Serviced it myself, modded it to GMT and added the hack lever. It runs and runs and runs, and has gained 2 seconds in over a month, wearing it everyday. I love that movement.

Edited by JoeyB
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Just buy a gen 5513.

No way I would sink $3000 in a rep case for a watch that costs $4-5k

+1

The 5513 is pretty "cheap" in the Rolex vintage world. Making a franken is not worthing the cost IMHO.

Plus there is a lot of 5513 for sale these days...

Just my 2 cents ;)

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Just buy a gen 5513.

No way I would sink $3000 in a rep case for a watch that costs $4-5k

+1

Generally (prior to having purchased any gen parts), I would have said exactly the same thing. However, since omgiv has already acquired the gen handset & dial, it makes more sense to fit them to a gen movement than to modify them to fit an ETA.

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I know that it has been done before but does the case need any modifications before fitting a 1520? The case I have has an L serial number.

I decided to go with a genuine dial and hands because I found a matching set for only a couple of hundred dollars more. It seemed like a logical step to go genuine at that point.

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I have pretty much decided to go ahead and use the 2846 instead of buying a 1520. I thought about it over and over again and I just don't want to spend that on this project right now. I would probably spend at least $1000 on a 1520 movement and would probably also need a Phong case since my case houses a 2846. I would rather save those funds and go for the genuine 1680.

Anyway, all of the hands seem to be fitting 2846 without modifying the hands at all. I need to work a little on the cannon pinion a little more, but the hour and second hand fit perfectly. Since I am using the 2846, that means that the dial feet must go. I am using a dial spacer between the dial and movement to get the hands at the correct height. I have a junk NDT dial that I have been playing with. I have used dial dot to secure the dial to the spacer ring and that works pretty well. I was wondering if anyone had any great ideas of a way to secure the spacer ring to the movement. I have a pack of dial feet and was thinking of retrofitting the dial feet back on but have not done that before and don't know if it is possible. I am just looking for an easy way, that is not harmful to the movement, to secure the spacer ring to the movement. Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!

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Thanks for the tip. So you have dial feet secured to the movement and soldered to the spacer ring? Is that correct? I don't have any experience with soldering. I may try the Yuki method on my junk dial or try your method on some extra spacers. Thanks again!!!

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