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1675 Build & Questions


viw9419

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Hi Guys,

I am about to build a 1675 and plan to document all the steps. I have read the forum and cross referenced where possible. It I have a few questions before I start.

I have ordered a 1675 from Trevor, I understand that the case needs to be shaped and have read RA's excellent posts on the topic and so I am reasonably confident that I would be able to complete that to a reasonable standard.

The parts list so far is a Clark 25-116 plexi (I am unaware of which gasket is required but I am sure he will know)

Bezel insert with correct size numerals (Clark again?)

Is the bezel assembly itself fine on Trevor's 1675?

On to the questions proper...

I intend to swap the dial for a Yuki dial, I assume that I need a Matt Dial, Yuki has 2 versions, 2nd version is out of stock I cannot tell the difference between the 2, is the version that is in stock fine? What is the difference?

I am intending to keep the 2836 that it comes with, at least until it craps out, I would like to know how to fix the GMT hand to the hour hand but have been unable to find exactly how to do that.

My main concern is hands, the dial from Yuki comes with a set that are sized to the Rolex, I believe the GMT hand will fit the ETA but then I need a standard Mercedes set for ETA, how do I get the lume to match the dial/GMT hand?

What else have I missed?

Sorry for all the questions, I am excited to get started though.

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im building one too i have a gen 116 Crystal yuki matt dial and hand set 2 case options a 1655 or the startime not made up my mind gen insert rep bezel spring im just missing the rest of the bezel set up and haiving some issues getting parts to fit the josh case

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The parts list so far is a Clark 25-116 plexi (I am unaware of which gasket is required but I am sure he will know)

Bezel insert with correct size numerals (Clark again?)

I don't believe there is a gasket used. I like Clark's inserts, some here like others better.

On to the questions proper...

I intend to swap the dial for a Yuki dial, I assume that I need a Matt Dial, Yuki has 2 versions, 2nd version is out of stock I cannot tell the difference between the 2, is the version that is in stock fine? What is the difference?

Will the gen size dial fit the case?

I am intending to keep the 2836 that it comes with, at least until it craps out, I would like to know how to fix the GMT hand to the hour hand but have been unable to find exactly how to do that.

As it comes, the GMT hand works with the hour hand but geared to make one complete revolution while the hour hand makes two. It is adjustable, so usable for other time zones.

My main concern is hands, the dial from Yuki comes with a set that are sized to the Rolex, I believe the GMT hand will fit the ETA but then I need a standard Mercedes set for ETA, how do I get the lume to match the dial/GMT hand?

The gen GMT hand is 1.8mm. The modded ETA/Asian 2836/2846 and DG 3804B are usually 2.0mm, some bigger. The gen hand cannot be broached to 2.0mm, it will break the sleeve. I have successfully broached the gen hand to 1.9mm, and turned the GMT pinion down to fit it.

Gen Rolex hands will not fit the ETA movement. Most parts suppliers we use have gen style hands for Rolex Tudor that will fit the ETA. I know Clark's has the Tudor Submariner hands, but I don't believe he has them 'aged'. Rafflestime may have the aged ones.

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I don't believe there is a gasket used. I like Clark's inserts, some here like others better.

Will the gen size dial fit the case?

As it comes, the GMT hand works with the hour hand but geared to make one complete revolution while the hour hand makes two. It is adjustable, so usable for other time zones.

The gen GMT hand is 1.8mm. The modded ETA/Asian 2836/2846 and DG 3804B are usually 2.0mm, some bigger. The gen hand cannot be broached to 2.0mm, it will break the sleeve. I have successfully broached the gen hand to 1.9mm, and turned the GMT pinion down to fit it.

Gen Rolex hands will not fit the ETA movement. Most parts suppliers we use have gen style hands for Rolex Tudor that will fit the ETA. I know Clark's has the Tudor Submariner hands, but I don't believe he has them 'aged'. Rafflestime may have the aged ones.

Thanks JoeyB,

The Gen dial fits the case (according to others), I have looked closer at Yuki and the dial not in stock is the 'long E', they have the 'short E' and that's the one I prefer so bonus!

I was hoping to get the hands from Yuki, I also have a set of hands from a DRSD that might work, I will buy a few sets and maybe have a crack at reluming them myself.

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Having read further it has become apparent that the Yuki 'in stock' dial has poor printing so that is a no-go.

Good call. The long E dial is so good on the latest version that I thought it was gen the first time I saw it. I've got a gen long E and their dang near identical.

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  • 2 weeks later...

"How is the Startime Gmt case set? Has anyone have one and built a Gmt with the Startime case yet?"

Afaik StarTime has only submariner cases, one for 3035 movements and one for 3135 movements. The case neck on modern submariner cases is made for a 295 sapphire crystal so a 135 acrylic crystal from a 16000 DJ etc should fit the case neck. A 116 crystal will not fit a modern DJ or sapphire submariner case as it is smaller in id/od. The modern submariner case with a 135 and gmt bezel might work but the case is cut for a 7mm crown and a 5.3mm crown would look like a 10 inch wheel on a motor home.

It would probably be easier to stick with a 1655 type case.

"TBH im so close to just giving up on all my builds and selling off the parts."

Me too. I have projects going back into the early 1980's and will never get them all done. I was digging in my project cabinet a few days ago trying to find a steel case Longines Ultra-Chron with a 14k bezel (forest green dial!) that a guy gave me 20 years ago. I needed to look at it because I had another cal 431 Longines apart for so long that I forgot how the calendar works went together. One wheel had a dimple punched on it and I could not remember if it went dimple up or dimple down.

All the green dial watch needs is a marker on the dial...and a crown, crystal, c/o etc, etc.

I did knock one out last week though...finally finished a steel case Wittnauer auto d/d, matte black dial with 10kyg bezel from the 1960's...apart since 2002.

One down, 200 to go... :fool:

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