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My Safari with gen Hornback


997 s

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Sorry try here: http://www.rwg.cc/to...plica-pictures/

And at RG look for from member: Loosetime and then: Ultra mods. Ap ROO. Recesed crown+Thin case+ Thin caseback+Gen dial+ 50%Gen mvmnt

Yes I see what you mean now.. compared with a gen side by side, the difference IS obvious. My question is: On the wrist, wouldnt the thickness be somewhat less obvious? I am asking out of curiosity.

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I have tried both gen and rep with the same shirt (sorry no pics, as at a gen dealer, wiping out the iPhone for a wrist shot is not appreciated) and the gen fits nicer more elegantly under a shirt and the rep does not, also it is more unstable sloppy on the wrist. And yes the thickness is a tell on the wrist.... 1000x more than silver lines on the numbers or an off-font... so that is why all this dial talk is XXX to me...

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I have tried both gen and rep with the same shirt (sorry no pics, as at a gen dealer, wiping out the iPhone for a wrist shot is not appreciated) and the gen fits nicer more elegantly under a shirt and the rep does not, also it is more unstable sloppy on the wrist. And yes the thickness is a tell on the wrist.... 1000x more than silver lines on the numbers or an off-font... so that is why all this dial talk is XXX to me...

Understood, and thanks plenty. :drinks:

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If u want to shave down the caseback. I think u have to use another movement. So it could be that the 1,7 mm is going to be exxxpensive

Ofcourse a franken is much cooler than what I am showing. But if u compare a Franken cost v. s this I would go for this

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Rep $600 (or whatever current coat is), base level franken starts at $3k, gen at $15k or so......it's all relative. For the non-obsessed that is an expensive 1.7mm. :)

And I think, W, that you are one of those who "obsess" over that 1.7mm :D :D

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In which case, I would like to ask.. shaving the caseback for that 1.7mm, a norm for frankens, does it achieve the desired effect for you?

On mine I do shave down the caseback, also the bezel as the gen inner tachy ring is not as tall as the rep and the "interior" of the mid case to further lower the bezel gasket. Of course the key is the lower profile movement and tachy ring. With the original movement it is hard to make significant progress without removing the rotor.

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On mine I do shave down the caseback, also the bezel as the gen inner tachy ring is not as tall as the rep and the "interior" of the mid case to further lower the bezel gasket. Of course the key is the lower profile movement and tachy ring. With the original movement it is hard to make significant progress without removing the rotor.

W, thanks for the information. You also wrote "With the original movement it is hard to make significant progress without removing the rotor" Do you mean the A7750 movement in this case? That the rotor is in the way when you want to thin the caseback?

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S

W, thanks for the information. You also wrote "With the original movement it is hard to make significant progress without removing the rotor" Do you mean the A7750 movement in this case? That the rotor is in the way when you want to thin the caseback?

No. I have never thinned out the caseback with an A7750 movement. I never got over the lack of offset pushers, etc. and that drove me directly to the LWO movement. i did it on the original MBW seconds at 9 version as well in spite of the fact its dimensions are closer to gen in the first place.My assumption (and it is an assumption) is that they made the caseback (as well as the case) thicker to fit the larger movement so removing the rotor would help. I have no idea how much you could thin out the caseback (if at all) if you don't remove the rotor.

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S

No. I have never thinned out the caseback with an A7750 movement. I never got over the lack of offset pushers, etc. and that drove me directly to the LWO movement. i did it on the original MBW seconds at 9 version as well in spite of the fact its dimensions are closer to gen in the first place.My assumption (and it is an assumption) is that they made the caseback (as well as the case) thicker to fit the larger movement so removing the rotor would help. I have no idea how much you could thin out the caseback (if at all) if you don't remove the rotor.

and this is why frankens built on the sec@9 cases are closer to the ones built on the sec@12 cases isnt it, assuming the same parts are used.

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and this is why frankens built on the sec@9 cases are closer to the ones built on the sec@12 cases isnt it, assuming the same parts are used.

It isn't that they are closer when you are done modding them. In fact the seconds at 9 can't take the gen tachy ring and of course the construction is very different. They are closer in dimensions out of the box and were the first ones out. The minute the seconds at 12 came out it was clearly a better place to start modding but it took a little more case work.

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But add upon your intense discussion, the difference in height/ obvious difference in movement really puts me off. It is really bothering me because of the distance between the middle of the hour and minute and the base of the dial. If only they can fix that problem!! I really want an AP rep but that's really stopping me from purchasing one. Why dont they just start with a 2892 to begin with and a DD module but rep dial, tachy. That way it can still be affordable, and they can get the thickness right.

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Actually the rep is really good and all things being equal the later versions with newer dials and better date placement like the Safari in this thread are very close. Who really looks close enough to notice the crown is offset or the date isn' t deep enough? The people debating the merits are a select few. The franken alternative is a very different and expensive alternative - you are basically building a $5k franken of a $20k+ watch. If you like AP and don't want to dump that kind of money I would still buy it - and this is coming from someone who only owns frankens and gens.

I wouldn't hold my breath on an LWO replica movement. What nobody tells you is that the DD module is a relatively fragile module and difficult to repair. Heck even AP simply throws them away rather than repairing when the module breaks.

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Actually the rep is really good and all things being equal the later versions with newer dials and better date placement like the Safari in this thread are very close. Who really looks close enough to notice the crown is offset or the date isn' t deep enough? The people debating the merits are a select few. The franken alternative is a very different and expensive alternative - you are basically building a $5k franken of a $20k+ watch. If you like AP and don't want to dump that kind of money I would still buy it - and this is coming from someone who only owns frankens and gens.

I wouldn't hold my breath on an LWO replica movement. What nobody tells you is that the DD module is a relatively fragile module and difficult to repair. Heck even AP simply throws them away rather than repairing when the module breaks.

Thanks WatchMaster. After handling afew in the markets, I am definitely really really thinking of getting one. But gotta get a gen strap, and locating one of those maybe a little costly and hard. But you are really pushing me across the board for a Safari :D

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Thanks WatchMaster. After handling afew in the markets, I am definitely really really thinking of getting one. But gotta get a gen strap, and locating one of those maybe a little costly and hard. But you are really pushing me across the board for a Safari

I do think it is a great rep. On the gen strap it just takes patience to find one at a reasonable price. You can find second hand one for $300 or so but you have to be careful. They have a tendency to fall apart as the skin is literally glued onto the metal tab and it can peel off. If you are price insensitive you can literally walk into any boutique and order whatever you want. But the pricing is silly- $550 for horn back,, $450-500 for regular croc and $350 or so for leather.

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