1016 is here (at last!)

[Lo']

Right on time for the Christmas day (wich I hope will be wonderful for each and everyone in here ).

As I promised here I'm posting some pictures and my thought on this piece which landed on my desk this afternoon after a month's long journey from China:

First of all thumbs up to Andrew for the flawless communication, excellent packaging and fail-proof shipping. Everything worked as advertised and I got exactly what I was showed in the QC pictures (good and bad).
- The dial badly needs reluming and a good deal of aging. That being said it is not bad at all. Quite accurate according to me.
- Next to my gen 16014 the case looks quite good, however the curve next to the lugholes needs to be slimmed down and smoothed off a bit.
- The crown looks pretty good.
- Ditto for the caseback.
- the movement looks like it's a real ETA 2836-2 after all... so far it's keeping a very good time.
- Crystal looks ok.
- Can't say anything about the hands. Are they accurate according to you?

 

All in all I feel that Andrew's 1016 is a good starting point for a build. Now I only need to find someone willing to take on the task

[Olivax]

Look great! Which one is this on TT website? Can you post a link please

[sigsvoor]

although this EX is measuring 36/20 mm like the gen 1016, the dial is the 5500-EX; these 5500 measure 34/19 mm and are "Precision" or "Super Precision", contrary to the SCOC printed 1016 dial;

[Lo']

Look great! Which one is this on TT website? Can you post a link please

 

Of course mate! There you go: http://www.ttw168.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_103&products_id=567

[Lo']

although this EX is measuring 36/20 mm like the gen 1016, the dial is the 5500-EX; these 5500 measure 34/19 mm and are "Precision" or "Super Precision", contrary to the SCOC printed 1016 dial;

 

There are some dials back at NDT which are either 28 or 29mm in diameter. Given the steep price (USD 255) I'm not willing to run any risk: Can someone confirm that one of these will fit my case and movement?

And for what is about the hands: Which one should I get? Can you recommend a set?

[Akira]

There are some dials back at NDT which are either 28 or 29mm in diameter. Given the steep price (USD 255) I'm not willing to run any risk: Can someone confirm that one of these will fit my case and movement?

And for what is about the hands: Which one should I get? Can you recommend a set?

 

$225 for an aftermarket 1016 dial is crazy talk!

 

$250-300 buys you a genuine service dial. 

[Lo']

$225 for an aftermarket 1016 dial is crazy talk!

 

$250-300 buys you a genuine service dial. 

 Thanks for weighing in Akira!

What would you do in this case? Work on the installed dial and apply a vintage patina to it or get a new one (service one that is)?

[Ueno]

Hi, looking good, question mate, did you ask for that dial or that's how it came. I was looking at the QC pictures and it shows a different dial

[Lo']

Hi, looking good, question mate, did you ask for that dial or that's how it came. I was looking at the QC pictures and it shows a different dial

 Hi there!

I did not ask for this particular dial. The 1016 ones must have been out of stock and Andrew sent me what he had left. He obviously informed me and posted QC pictures of the actual watch for approval before shipping the item.

[Akira]

 Thanks for weighing in Akira!

What would you do in this case? Work on the installed dial and apply a vintage patina to it or get a new one (service one that is)?

 

 

Due the "lack" of overall accuracy - I'd take the installed dial, give it some patina and remove the "SUPER PRECISION" text.

Gen crown, aftermarket plexi and you are good to go!

 

Are the lugholes accepting gen springbars? If not drill them out and you are golden.

[Lo']

Due the "lack" of overall accuracy - I'd take the installed dial, give it some patina and remove the "SUPER PRECISION" text.

Gen crown, aftermarket plexi and you are good to go!

 

Are the lugholes accepting gen springbars? If not drill them out and you are golden.

 

I have been fitting a pair of gen springbars on this bad boy, but this is more or less the last intelligent thing I have been doing on this watch.

Yesterday evening I removed the movement and dial from the case and tried to give the dial some alure and age. As ususal I did not obtain anything viable so i thought I'd better put everything back in its place.

 

The horror!!

 

I cannot get the tige inside the movement anymore. The button seems to be stuck and as I had to press quite hard to get it to open I fear I have been breaking it...

 

I'm not good at doing those things...

[automatico]

"I cannot get the tige inside the movement anymore. The button seems to be stuck and as I had to press quite hard to get it to open I fear I have been breaking it...

I'm not good at doing those things...."

 

If 'tige' = crown/stem then you have pushed the detent button too far and dislodged the set bridge...you screwed up, but not too bad. Search the forum to find how to repair this and it will be Ok. If you do not want to tackle it, a watch repair guy should be willing to fix it for $10 or $15. It's a 20 minute fix.

On Eta 28xx movements always use a screwdriver that fits snugly in the detent slot to push the button. The movement plate is slotted for a screwdriver so you will not push the button too far.

Always r/r the stem in setting position.

[Lo']

"I cannot get the tige inside the movement anymore. The button seems to be stuck and as I had to press quite hard to get it to open I fear I have been breaking it...

I'm not good at doing those things...."

 

If 'tige' = crown/stem then you have pushed the detent button too far and dislodged the set bridge...you screwed up, but not too bad. Search the forum to find how to repair this and it will be Ok. If you do not want to tackle it, a watch repair guy should be willing to fix it for $10 or $15. It's a 20 minute fix.

On Eta 28xx movements always use a screwdriver that fits snugly in the detent slot to push the button. The movement plate is slotted for a screwdriver so you will not push the button too far.

Always r/r the stem in setting position.

Thanks a lot Automatico,

Yeah by "tige" I refer to the stem...

I've been really clumsy but I somehow succeeded in re-opening the bridge by pushing the button with a very small object. I can now fit the stem inside the movement but, when I try pushing the button again with the same small bar, the bridge won't close.

Consequently the stem freely slides off the movement; the seconds hand still moves but the minute/hour hands stand still... I have not tried anything else for fear of causing more damage...

Any other advice?

[Akira]

Thanks a lot Automatico,

Yeah by "tige" I refer to the stem...

I've been really clumsy but I somehow succeeded in re-opening the bridge by pushing the button with a very small object. I can now fit the stem inside the movement but, when I try pushing the button again with the same small bar, the bridge won't close.

Consequently the stem freely slides off the movement; the seconds hand still moves but the minute/hour hands stand still... I have not tried anything else for fear of causing more damage...

Any other advice?

 

Send it to someone who knows what he's doing. Get it modded and aged and the same time too

[automatico]

It is very hard to explain what is going on so you might be better off to find a repair guy to fix it. Trying to follow written instructions without detailed pictures is almost impossible unless you are familiar with part names, part locations etc.

I would stop where you are and wait until you can get help from another member (pictures) or find a low buck repair guy.

 

Here is a good article on the 2824 but it is not much help for repairs:

http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2824/eta2824.html

[ghost]

Is a service dial really available for that price? Er i might be down for two if so!

[Lo']

Send it to someone who knows what he's doing. Get it modded and aged and the same time too

Excellent idea Akira! Consider it done.

[Lo']

It is very hard to explain what is going on so you might be better off to find a repair guy to fix it. Trying to follow written instructions without detailed pictures is almost impossible unless you are familiar with part names, part locations etc.

I would stop where you are and wait until you can get help from another member (pictures) or find a low buck repair guy.

 

Here is a good article on the 2824 but it is not much help for repairs:

http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2824/eta2824.html

Thanks a lot. I'm not going to attempt anything else on this watch, I already have done too much . But the link is nonetheless very interesting and instructive.

[lhooq]

Sorry for the late response.  Usually, I'm Johnny-on-the-spot to comment on all things 1016.

I think it looks good, and I often recommend the Trusty 1016 to people asking for a good, out-of-the-box, vintage Explorer.  I am puzzled by the dial, though, as that should be one of the Trusty's strengths.  As sigsvoor said, this is a 5500 dial (and a pretty good 5500 dial, I might add), but it's wrong for the 1016.  I would not recommend buying an NDT dial to replace it, but maybe you could contact Trusty about getting the correct SCOC dial for it?  (I'm assuming that he really doesn't have any in stock, though.)  

Alternatively, you could get an MBW 1016 dial that would work well.  I may be able to help you with that, especially if you're 'Up North'.  Drop me a PM.

I would not consider changing the crystal until I'm absolutely sure about the dimensions of the crystal/bezel on the rep.  I am guessing that a Tropic 21 or 22 will not fit, but one member (If You See Kay) has had some success fitting a Tropic 19 onto his Trusty rep.  It's a lot of work, but it will get you a taller and more correct-looking crystal profile.  As for the hands, I would put them low on the priority list.  If you really want a good replacement set, the hands for TC's Sub are probably the best. 

 

I think Akira was referring to lugholes that will accept the fatter 1016 bars, which are as wide as Submariner springbars.  Drilling the holes to 1.3mm would be a good mod, especially if you're thinking of reshaping the lugs.

[Lo']

Thanks for commenting and advising LH.

I have had a pretty smooth transaction with Andrew and I am 100% positive that I have been getting this dial version because when I ordered he was fresh out of alternatives. That said the dial is not bad at all, it needs a lot of added cred which will be obtained through reluming and aging. The lugholes are perfect as they will accept gen springbars. For what is about fiddling with the crystal... as I reported above I think I have done enough damage to this watch which, hopefully, is not beyond repair; I am not going to put my hands back on it but rather will ship it to someone which is able to fix and mod it at the same time.