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Dial Maker and Pam Maker - TC's Progress Update Part II


tc670207

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Here is a little teaser for the 16613 project.....

TC V2 DWO in champagne color....

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TC V2 DWO behind TC V2 16613 Dial.....

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Interested in how you will get the midlinks gold plated on the TC bracelet. I am currently on the same project as you, perhaps we can share info?

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Well I am going for a gen insert, gen datewheel, gen hands and WM9 dial from BK ;-)

Bracelet will be the hardest to achieve for both of us.

I know a jeweler that's in the process of molding links for these high priced TT Bracelets :)

He's working on the first run of the 14k and 18k bezel rings too.

(yes...he's a jeweler/gemologist and knows how to add the alloys to 14k for that darker 18k look....though he's doing a few in 18k too)

Edited by correctime
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A friend of mine is goldsmith she will try the bezel for me in a couple of weeks. 18k plating.

The problem I have is to somehow tear the bracelet apart so that we can plate the midlinks.

Unfortunately TC couldn't deliver a bracelet that wasn't put together yet. So all the links separate. That would make the job a lot easier.

Interesting to see if your friend succeeds.

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A friend of mine is goldsmith she will try the bezel for me in a couple of weeks. 18k plating.

The problem I have is to somehow tear the bracelet apart so that we can plate the midlinks.

Unfortunately TC couldn't deliver a bracelet that wasn't put together yet. So all the links separate. That would make the job a lot easier.

Interesting to see if your friend succeeds.

I will keep you posted.

He used the gen 16613 parts...actually disassembled the Bracelet links for the making of the moldings.

He sent them somewhere here in the US to see about having them produced but it seems the links have a coronet/hallmark somewhere on them and the Co. said they wouldn't do it.

I'm not exactly sure where he stands on production of the bracelets at the moment but I do know he's molding/machining the 14k and 18k bezel rings himself.

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"He sent them somewhere here in the US to see about having them produced but it seems the links have a coronet/hallmark somewhere on them and the Co. said they wouldn't do it.

I'm not exactly sure where he stands on production of the bracelets at the moment but I do know he's molding/machining the 14k and 18k bezel rings himself."

 

Not meaning to be a downer but I am guessing just the cost of 18k gold for the center links will add up to $500 to $700 for 12 or 13 hollow center links at today's crazy prices ($1650 troz).

You will also need two 18k hood strips and a way to solder the strips to the hoods, or a set of tt hoods.

 

I had a 12 link genuine GMT oyster converted to ss/14k in 1994 by MSB Watches in Miami and it cost $550 plus $90 for one complete additional link to make 13 links. I talked to a few people who did tt conversions back then and they used special order 14k or 18k tubing to make the links and formed them to shape with a die press after cutting to size. The center links had to be within a few hundredths of a mm so the link would not bind or be too loose...this is not easy to do. You will also need a way to disassemble and press the links back together without leaving a mark. At this time (1994), an Italian made high grade ss/14k unsigned 20mm oyster bracelet was around $400 to $450 iirc...today they are around $1000.

 

I have done quite a bit of 'lost wax' gold casting and it would be extremely difficult to cast links (using this method) with enough precision to work without making them oversize to begin with and then machining each one to size. When making rubber molds for shooting the wax, there is probably 5% to 10% shrinkage in the rubber mold so the wax model will be undersize to start with even when using high grade 'pink' casting rubber. If the die casting method is used, the parts will come out with much more precision but most smaller gold casters do not use this method.

Cast gold pieces are also more brittle than forged/die struck gold pieces.

 

Lost wax gold casting...

 

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Thanks for your input!

If we can get bracelets in separate then the next step is easier.

As you say plating is difficult. Especially with the small tolerances between the links.

The price for plating the midlinks won't be as steep as $500 though.

Probably more 250-350.

But then the clasp.. That's hard. And will be a big challenge..

But maybe just use a noob clasp.. They aren't that bad and probably the best there is available at the moment since the MBW's aren't manufactured anymore..

So TC endlink plating

TC midlinks plating

And noob clasp..

Unless someone has something better?

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we need to get an order together for 100 bracelets so that I can get them completely unassembled.....

let's do a poll...

put your name down and next to it how many you would be in for..e.g.   janeto72 +10 etc..etc......TC will contact you  once we hit 100 pieces and we will go from there...

remember this is a poll for interest in this project....

16613 project-93253 TWO-TONE TC Bracelet

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  • 3 weeks later...

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