Need Sub Experts - Help !

[triplehd]

I acquired a nice sub case with deep rehault from a member on this site.  I bought it primarily because of the deep rehault as its similiar to a MBW/WM9, etc.

 

i purchased a 21j Noob and though of just swapping cases.  What i found is that the new case has a low crown position.  The 21j movement nor did a 2836 movement really fit (stem vs. crown position) properly.  Additionally, with the 21j movement in place, as i was winding the watch one day, the stem broke off due to the position (look for a broken noob up for sale soon ).

 

So, chiming all the experts.  What movement can i use for this case?  I was emailing some members and possibly a 2824, but dont want to purchase a 2824 nor any movement for that matter until i know what is the correct movement.

 

Pics below.

 

 

 

 

 

Thoughts?

[alligoat]

It's been my experience that the a21j and the 2836 have the same stem position. When you put the movement in the case (with the dial on of course). you need to sight thru the case tube. If the hole where the stem goes into the movement is low, you need a 2824-2 movement. If the hole in the movement is high in the case tube, I don't know what you do unless you add a dial spacer and taller pinions to the movement.

[SSTEEL]

To help identify the case, remove the bracelet and let us know what the engravings say on the case.

[triplehd]

D320840

 

Bought the case here - http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/152222-for-sale-16610-no-lug-hole-d-serial-case-reduced/

[SSTEEL]

Check the thread below over on RWI, your case number is mentioned, and some info there maybe of help to you..

 

http://www.replica-watch.info/vb/showthread.php/rolex-submariner-47320.html

 

Some more info may help in link below too

 

http://www.rwgforum.net/topic/72526-a-comparison-of-2-16610s/

Edited March 26, 2013 by SSTEEL

[triplehd]

Thanks SS.  

 

The first link, where the user had the same Model Number (D Series), his rehault was whooky where as mine is straight. Not sure what movement he had in there.

[automatico]

I have a few D320840 watches...all except one have swisseta 2836-2, some have 9mm date offset (oem) and some have 10mm date offset. Some have a bit more 'wok' than others and I have cut a couple 'woks' down at a 90 degree angle close to where it comes down to meet the dial to reduce the wok effect with good results. This is Ok as long as there is plenty of dial left behind the reflector (rehaut) and no scratches on the dial's outer surface to show.

 

I do not remember where the D320840 watches came from (6 or 7 years ago) and all had swissetas except the last one had a Seagull decorated (engine turned) 2836 etaclone.

The D320840 dials are are not lettered as crisply as 'The Original Noob' F520117 watches that I have. One reason the reflector/rehaut looks so shallow on the F520117 is that the bottom edge comes cut from the factory like the D320840 mentioned above...at least all of mine were cut that way. They are still a little bit shallow overall though. 

 

Something else...all my F520117 cases have sharp edges on top of the lugs and all the D320840 lugs are beveled on top like genuine. The last few F520117 watches that I got had plastic oem type bezel covers with blue plastic wrap over the crowns and dark green 'flashing' holograms on the backs. The earlier models did not have the bezel covers or blue plastic wrap.

All my D320840 are 13.20mm thick and have straight side sapphire crystals pressed into a plastic gasket in the case.

All my F520117 are 12.75mm thick and have oem type (not oem spec) sapphire crystals with a ledge at the top that presses into a plastic gasket in the case. Some of the difference in overall thickness between the two may be from the shallow reflector/rehaut on the F520117.

In my experience F520117 and D320840 bracelets will not interchange.

 

Imho...the D320840 looks more realistic 'on the arm' but the F520117 dial is quite a bit better and crown operation and bezel turning is smoother and more precise.