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My 6152/1


madasboot

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My new vintage...

Some pics of it... still missing a decent brass mvmt spacer and a better dial with not so fat numerals.

The crystal is the "OEM" weathered and its inside border tinted with yellow acetate marker paint diluted in alcohol...

Until I get a new tall crystal that one will do just fine...

The dial has been vintageized using sugared (yellow) coffee. It looks damn fine and the pics dont do justice to the final effect and believe me the adding sugar to the coffee makes all the difference!

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Well Marco, what can I say. Awesome work...

Regarding this spacer ring, I might be able to help you out - could you tell me your required measurements and I will see what I can do for you this Christmas.

Hi Oliver,

Your generosity is always remarkable and I really appreciate your help. You sure are a Christmas Spirit... :)

Meanwhile I asked my watchsmith to have one spacer specially tailored for this case.

If the results turn out bad I will not hesitate asking for your help. :)

As always I thank you for the care you always dedicate and hope I can retribute.

Wish you the best my friend and merry Christmas!

Marco

pannylovernr1: I will post later some tips on my "amateurish" vintageizing process.

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Marco, it looks great! Have you plastic filled the numerals in the first dial? Some shots look like you have, others don't! Thanks for sharing the coffe w/sugar tip - I'm still unsure about rust on hands - have you tried this? I've had to relume the same set of hands 4 times because of failed attempts!!

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Thanks for your kind words guys.

I am pretty satisfied with the results... and with the process itself I must say.

I lost my fear for small mechanisms - and for non-reversibility itself! - and dedicated myself to all the tasks involved on vintageization process; case, dial and crystal.

I even discovered that I was able to disassemble and reassemble the watch...

The result is in fact comparable to the real mccoy:

(Just follow Mark's link: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=8506)

Unfortunatelly my photo skills are bad as they can be...

Next project will be a 2533!

Cheers,

Marco

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My last adjustments and scratches and some final (and not so bad) pictures.

I think some springbars from River and a back plexi with Mark´s precious help and I will call it complete...

and I will move on to the next stop: a 2533

PS - Ross, I am waiting for some of your pics...

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It looks great, very subtle aging! The plexi on the back will really help, as will spring bars. Are you going to modify them to get rid of the screw slot? I was wondering whether some solder and a file would help to make them a little more accurate?!

As for the photos, it'll be a little while - I'm in the middle of moving house! I've used some of your tips on the hands, but I was a little rough and bent the minute hand. Let's just call it vintage ;) I've then got a 3 hour fight on my hands to get the keyless works sorted (I hate Molnija's!) before I can wear it. I don't think it'll be up to this standard unless I invest in a new dial, mine is showing signs of 'experimentation'!

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  • 1 month later...
Guest RiverwindMDS
My new vintage...

Some pics of it... still missing a decent brass mvmt spacer and a better dial with not so fat numerals.

The crystal is the "OEM" weathered and its inside border tinted with yellow acetate marker paint diluted in alcohol...

Until I get a new tall crystal that one will do just fine...

The dial has been vintageized using sugared (yellow) coffee. It looks damn fine and the pics dont do justice to the final effect and believe me the adding sugar to the coffee makes all the difference!

I really love how you vintageized this dial, it is really awesome!!!

Can you please write a guide or a simple walkthrough to do this kind of work.

I really need it because of the project I'm doing and I think your lume is really good.

Thanks

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If you are going to vintageize your 6152 - like mine - here goes some tips:

1. Dial numerals:

You can either do the patina on the numerals with watercolor (Winsor & Newton's Raw Sienna) or a coffee wash.

Watercolor technique is quite simple as you apply the diluted color into the numeral slits (not on the surface of the dial or you will have to wash it later!) and let it dry and repeat the process until you get the tone you desire.

Wait overnight and then with a wet soft brush (water only) you drybrush the numerals so the patina will be more discreet and subtle as it concentrates on the recessed parts of the numerals.

The coffee technique is quite an experiment and had proved some major results (problem is I did it on a Davidsen engraved dial whose numerals are too fat and I like the results but not the dial!).

First you do a strong black coffee (concentrated) and then you add 1 tea spoon of brown sugar to a soup spoon of coffee.

Be sure to use the mixture when cold or you may damage the dial.

The rest of the process is quite similar as with watercolor the difference will be in the results.

Sugared coffee gives a ambar / satined finish patina when dry, looking like the real mccoys.

Just do not forget to let every coat to dry before applying the next one and I am pretty convinced you will like the results.

2. Hands:

You can age the luminous hand material with either of the techniques just do not forget to age the metal first.

You can achieve an old look by submerging the hands on heavily concentrated salt water for a week, let them dry for a couple of days and then repeat the process but instead of water use vinegar (white and not red wine vinegar).

3. Crystal:

The crystal that comes with the 6152/1 (Trusty/Andrew) is very reasonable but I insisted on having a taller and ordered one from Davidsen.

Davidsen's Crystal is quite good but needs a gasket since its diameter is slightly shorter than the bezel.

Ageing can be done from the inside - yellow tinted applied with an acetate marker around the inner edge of the crystal and then whashed with alcohol wet cotton. This has to be done with care just to prevent the paint to clot (you will want subtle reflexes and not yellow camouflage). Just do this around the edges and not near the inner face of the crystal.

On the outside use scotchbrite to scratch the plexi (I advise you to get a test dummy crystal first so you do not blast the correct one!) and then use toothpaste (highly fluored is the best) to buff it.

Finally get some Duraglit Metal Polish Wadding to a final buff.

This stuff works wonderfully on metals and... yes... on plexi also!

4. Case:

Some xtra-fine sandpaper, a scratch or two and Duraglit. Ditto!

Cheers,

Marco

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