tframo Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 (edited) Hi guys. I'm nit picking here, but there is about a mm gap around the edge of dial and rehaut, that at certain angles you can see the brass of movement.I tried to capture in pics but it's tough is this normal or do I need a better rehaut? Thanks in advance for the info Edited November 14, 2015 by tframo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themannier Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Diameter of the dial is too short ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tframo Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Diameter of the dial is too short ?I suppose that's a possibility. Not sure if it's the dial or rehaut that's off. Hoping one of the modders can chime in. Dial is unknown on gen 1520. Case and rehaut are yuki Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackflash Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Diameter of the dial is too short ?Agree, looks like the diameter of the dial is too small for the case. Either that or it isn't seated correctly. Either way you'll need to open up the case to resolve the issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tframo Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Dial is seated properly. It just has the slightest bit of play inside the rehaut. It's either rehaut to to big or dial to small. Anyone know where I can pick up a 5513 rehaut to see if that fixes it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misiekped Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 TThere is no such a thing as rehaut to get separate from the case Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themannier Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Well, the dial is too small, so the only thing you can do, is to get another dial 1 mm larger... The rehaut is not a separate part, it's the watch case, so there is no solution with the rehaut ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tframo Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Thanks guys. Just realized rehaut is part of case....duh. Im going to live with it for now until I get a deal on gen dial and hands...Got the dial centered a bit better so not as noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 Funnily enough I have the opposite problem on my 5513. The rehaut opening is too small and so too much of the index is covered up on the dial. Ugh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 diesel - if the problem is due to a "wokky" rehaut it can be re-machined... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
themannier Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 diesel - if the problem is due to a "wokky" rehaut it can be re-machined...+1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 T, I think combination of a couple of things. First, as others have said, the dial diameter might be a bit narrow. Secondly, the dial plate thickness could be a touch thin. And third, the dial/rehaut aperture on the Yuki case could be a touch wide and milled too high. If you reinstalled the dial with a couple of dial dots to elevate it, then it could help a bit.As far as replaceable rehaut goes, only the 16660/16600/116660 sea-dwellers have a separate rehaut from the mid-case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tframo Posted November 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 T, I think combination of a couple of things. First, as others have said, the dial diameter might be a bit narrow. Secondly, the dial plate thickness could be a touch thin. And third, the dial/rehaut aperture on the Yuki case could be a touch wide and milled too high. If you reinstalled the dial with a couple of dial dots to elevate it, then it could help a bit. As far as replaceable rehaut goes, only the 16660/16600/116660 sea-dwellers have a separate rehaut from the mid-case. thanks D! I think dial may be thin. Going to try to reinstall dial After adding dial dots. Only problem, I've never removed hands and dial from a movement before.... I have to study up is it difficult? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dbane883 Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 With proper tools no. Removing is a lot easier than installing. I use a Bergeon presto remover most of the time with a dial protector like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 thanks D! I think dial may be thin. Going to try to reinstall dial After adding dial dots. Only problem, I've never removed hands and dial from a movement before.... I have to study up is it difficult? No problem at all - if You do have the hand removal and hand setting tools, get them cheap or expensive, both do the job nicely. For dial protection You can cut a sharp triangle into a piece of paper like in dBane´s pic. Toothpics, rodico to hold the hands and a compressed air can/duster will do the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted November 16, 2015 Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 "Dial is unknown on gen 1520." Case = Yuki. This is something I have seen quite a bit on various projects. The proper dial size should be 26.0mm and about .4mm thick. The dial opening in the case should be around 25.4mm +/-. You will need to measure all three to find the trouble. The dial should also touch the bottom side of the dial seat inside the case when everything is tightened up.On some aftmkt cases (DW for example), the dial opening is cut for a 26.5mm 1680 size dial and a 5512/13 dial will always appear be too small. To make matters worse, all the DW cases I have seen were machined for a 1575 date movement, none for a 1520/60/70 no date movement so the dial/movement mounts too low in the case and the edge of the dial and movement can be seen around the outer diameter. I have never seen this problem on Yuki cases (yet) so my guess is the dial od is too small or the movement/dial is too far to one side...hopefully that is all it is. Even on genuine cases you can sometimes see brass showing on the dial around the edges where the paint has worn/chipped off. If there is too much space between the inside diameter of the case and the movement you can sometimes see down beside the edge of the dial to the movement plate on one side or the other. Look at the center hole in the dial and see if the hour wheel tube is centered in the dial hole. This can also cause the trouble you are having but there is not usually enough room for the dial to be very far off without the hour wheel or hour hand hub rubbing the dial hole on one side.The last time I worked on one of these things (about three months ago...MBK case, Yuki dial, 1520), I got so aggravated that I stuck all the parts in boxes and put them way until I cool off. So far, I have not cooled down much. These things can be a real headache. Nothing fits. Nothing at all. Never. I've been wearing my trusty quartz TAG Heuer 2000 (WK1112-0) while I cool down. Trouble free watches like the T/H make me feel guilty because I am used to mechanical watch trouble.This is a twisted hobby. Marquis de Sade would have loved it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tframo Posted November 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 16, 2015 "Dial is unknown on gen 1520." Case = Yuki. This is something I have seen quite a bit on various projects. The proper dial size should be 26.0mm and about .4mm thick. The dial opening in the case should be around 25.4mm +/-. You will need to measure all three to find the trouble. The dial should also touch the bottom side of the dial seat inside the case when everything is tightened up.On some aftmkt cases (DW for example), the dial opening is cut for a 26.5mm 1680 size dial and a 5512/13 dial will always appear be too small. To make matters worse, all the DW cases I have seen were machined for a 1575 date movement, none for a 1520/60/70 no date movement so the dial/movement mounts too low in the case and the edge of the dial and movement can be seen around the outer diameter. I have never seen this problem on Yuki cases (yet) so my guess is the dial od is too small or the movement/dial is too far to one side...hopefully that is all it is. Even on genuine cases you can sometimes see brass showing on the dial around the edges where the paint has worn/chipped off. If there is too much space between the inside diameter of the case and the movement you can sometimes see down beside the edge of the dial to the movement plate on one side or the other. Look at the center hole in the dial and see if the hour wheel tube is centered in the dial hole. This can also cause the trouble you are having but there is not usually enough room for the dial to be very far off without the hour wheel or hour hand hub rubbing the dial hole on one side.The last time I worked on one of these things (about three months ago...MBK case, Yuki dial, 1520), I got so aggravated that I stuck all the parts in boxes and put them way until I cool off. So far, I have not cooled down much. These things can be a real headache. Nothing fits. Nothing at all. Never. I've been wearing my trusty quartz TAG Heuer 2000 (WK1112-0) while I cool down. Trouble free watches like the T/H make me feel guilty because I am used to mechanical watch trouble.This is a twisted hobby. Marquis de Sade would have loved it. thank you for the detail Auto. I will be picking up a digital caliper to figure out what's going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tframo Posted November 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2015 Got my caliper. All measurements are correct but it appears I may have chipped some of the paint off the edge of the dial when installing it (spinning movement around when attaching movement screws)any tips or tricks to touch up the edges of dial? I was thinking some matte paint or a sharpie just to hide the exposed brass.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beachcomber Posted November 22, 2015 Report Share Posted November 22, 2015 Damn man, sorry to hear you chipped the edges, I wouldn't use a sharpie though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted November 23, 2015 Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 "I may have chipped some of the paint off the edge of the dial when installing it (spinning movement around when attaching movement screws)..."I have the same trouble.I usually sand the dial seat with 600 and 1000 sandpaper to help prevent it, some are pretty rough. On most of my Frankenstein projects with genuine movements, I use case clamps and smaller head screws in place of the oem type 'jack screws' so I do not have to turn the movement inside the case. This does not always prevent paint damage though and the last F-stein I took apart with MBK case (using clamps and screws), Yuki dial, 1520 had some paint pull off where it just stuck to the dial seat...not much way to prevent this.It's a paint losing battle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tframo Posted November 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2015 Thanks auto. I'm going to try and smooth the dial seat and then touch up the dial edge with some matte paint. It's not a gen dial so no biggie. I suppose this can happen to gens as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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