Modded Cartel 5513 v.2

[ThePadd]

Oh well, mines going to be a cheap looky likey. 

It'll do till I can afford the real thing.

[RickFlorida]

Yeah, you have more control with hand controlled pads.  

 

5 hours ago, MRWOZZA70 said:

Was definitely an eBay merchant... and was quite nice out of the jiffy bag... bug I probably re-brushed it after an ultrasonic clean!

I just noticed your custom endlinks.   Pretty neat.     Did you do that out of necessity or is that a "thing" to do now?

[PongsarutWiboonwattanakul]

Well I succumbed to the need to take a closer look at the updated Cartel 5513 and ordered one from Josh. http://www.pf-818.com/-p-9481.html
At long last we can say goodbye to to the stubby crown guards, a good excuse for me start another build. Here we go
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/61e3726dfd3ef12ff7dc25118e34da68.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/fc801823a4d8bfc8b585294e4598bb5a.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/288405952ddca5097ba64f73843799fe.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/139cb2aaa2cd559d2f5e205c0c87d010.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/698f39ee1ca616ef10907cced0dc5d20.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/9bf036e16530eb0ef0b4ac7681253ae9.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/f30920ecfcffe05dfeddcb9fc74b21da.jpg
The annoying "Stailesssteel" and 1665 model designation between the lugs. I will sand these out to leave a brushed finish.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/ebe2cad07b3f70929356b075ba8c508f.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/c7e90953e5ba93233c70ae45668618eb.jpg
Comparison of case height with the previous stubby 5513 and 1665 Cartel models (both modded). First the 5513.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/52f6d8ffbc907c8e0e84229dd9263ed2.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/9ecc084e354ba280d2a72d53ed02c128.jpg
1665 with a phong bezel assembly
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/2bf362a3eed8d67456ea657fe26725eb.jpg
Side by side with the modded 5513
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/0e30ee8864c2bac61edac8c329cd7887.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/9db21e811ee62bf3e7a98be6202183c1.jpg
Asian 2836 movement
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/1da4d2e48f7f7319bc1171b8807c2f46.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/b00caf384625a6076d81f27884113837.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/05afb0d6092908113fbffb04672646b5.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/3ff5fb18819e3dc54067c86196701f60.jpg
Replacement of dial and handset.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/ea276b77752cc51cfe9107920b34b704.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/e36e3c1b56936872d0d46f4afbae6c83.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/38cd4d5d3a5a140374c5805f72d49104.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/650b252892cee824f71fb6724d67764d.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/685250efb0a9048d1f6277dcaca02cd1.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/969285cd739c73be4f5246e40b27ee95.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/9f063ea08331f0784873da5e4dcb36b9.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/e2bda4a0030782bae287b05a712db455.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/71a9c1ecdc746ed22064696776711d73.jpg
Dismantling the bezel assembly and crystal removal in preparation for case work.
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/ff4aa451c79d4e3a31909d416bd63984.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/3cac916955c756ef3f160d63332f599d.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/28/e35bcf158eba522c6feeb6912b309582.jpg
So far so good. More to follow
 

Hi,
I need a 5513 like you, where can I buy it?
Thanks


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[jackflash]

Hi,
I need a 5513 like you, where can I buy it?
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here you go:

https://www.pfc8188.com/0-0-0-0rlsv01006-vintage-5513-no-date-submariner-asia-eta-2836.html

[PongsarutWiboonwattanakul]

This is original dial ?
or is the one you have.


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[jackflash]

This is original dial ?
or is the one you have.


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That dial is from Helenarou:

https://www.helenarou.com

You will need to send them an email as they don’t list them on the website.

[PongsarutWiboonwattanakul]

Where can I buy this case?
Thanks


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[jackflash]

Where can I buy this case?
Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There’s already a link 4 posts up #129.
You would have to buy the complete watch though. You may get lucky in the M2M sales. Or put in a WTB request.

[automatico]

"Where can I buy this case?"

 

I have some 'obsolete' 55xx cases from a few different suppliers and here are the suppliers and approximate dates purchased...DW (2011), MBK (2012), Yuki (2009 and 2012), IG44 (2012), and JKF (2017).

The best for the $$ in descending order when I bought them imho are Yuki, IG44, MBK, DW, JKF and all except JKF are no longer selling watches or cases.  Never had a Vietnam case that I know of.  Yuki??  Maybe yes, maybe no.  They had to be ordered with a 4 to 6 week delay and I never heard where they came from.  All these cases have a few flaws and the Yuki cases (5512, 5513) are probably the best of all the cases I have.  Members have reported problems with earlier Yuki cases but mine are fine.  

 

DW cases are pretty good and all are 1680 spec inside and this means they need a 26.5mm dial and either a rlx 1525, 1565, 1575 date movement or ETA 2836/46 type movement.  The case sides are slightly rounded and not flat like OEM but this is good if you want the watch to look  polished/aged.  The engraving/stamping ranges from very good engraving to ratty engraving to laser etching to none at all.  Case backs also come with two thread diameters (one OEM spec, one smaller) but this is Ok unless you want to exchange case backs.  The case necks are a hair too small on all my DW cases so this must be an across the board defect/problem.  You just have to dig through aftmkt crystals until you find one that fits.  They also have 'spring wire' rotating bezels so you will need a bezel kit (crystal clamp ring, tension shim, rotating bezel, bezel insert), I used Clark kits.

 

MBK cases were the 'cheapo choice' for higher grade projects but they have almost disappeared from the scene, probably because no one wants to sell theirs as replacing them with something of equivalent quality is expensive now.  There is a LOT of info about them on the forum.  OEM crystals and case tubes fit fine, at least all of mine did.  All my MBK cases are made for a rlx 1525, 1565, 1575 date movement or ETA 2836/46 type movement and all are made for 26.0mm dials.  You can make a good 5512/13 but the stem has to be centered in the case tube.  There is enough metal to enlarge the dial opening to accept a 26.5mm dial for a 1680 project.  You can find the ins and outs about all this on the rlx forum.

 

Yuki cases were the top of the line starting out because they were just about all there was at the time besides 'Phong' (Jewelry & Watch) and his cases were much higher $$.  Yuki 55xx cases had case tube thread problems starting out and this really did a lot of harm to their brand but they made improvements and sold them for a few years with very few complaints.  I traded into an early '1680' Yuki case and it was fine but some buyers had problems.

 

IG44 had fine dials and very good cases but their offerings were limited because IG44 could be hard to get in touch with.  I have a '1680' case and it is very good but I have not seen one for sale in years although you might see a dial now and then.

 

JKF cases are fine for ETA/Miyota clone projects imho but it seems some sellers are not selling 'genuine' JKF watches.  Who knows?  My JKF case is Ok but the lug holes are a bit too high on the lugs and this is not good when the holes are enlarged to accept OEM spec spring bars.  It is on spec for crystals and case tubes.  If you get an actual JKF case, they are a bargain in today's market.

 

Things to look for imho:

1...OEM spec case neck and case tube threads.  Hard to tell until you get the case though.

2...Holes in lugs with room above and below so the holes will not be too close to an edge if they need to be enlarged.  This is hit or miss because the watch or case you get may not match the one in pictures.

3...A groove machined inside the case for case screws and/or case clamps.

4...Crown location not too high or low.  This does not bother me very much but it shows.  'Repexperts' will spot it every time.  'Genuine Rolexperts' probably not.  If any of this bothers you...wear a long sleeve shirt.  Ha!

 

Happy Hunting!

  

 

 

 

 

[PongsarutWiboonwattanakul]

"Where can I buy this case?"
 
I have some 'obsolete' 55xx cases from a few different suppliers and here are the suppliers and approximate dates purchased...DW (2011), MBK (2012), Yuki (2009 and 2012), IG44 (2012), and JKF (2017).
The best for the $$ in descending order when I bought them imho are Yuki, IG44, MBK, DW, JKF and all except JKF are no longer selling watches or cases.  Never had a Vietnam case that I know of.  Yuki??  Maybe yes, maybe no.  They had to be ordered with a 4 to 6 week delay and I never heard where they came from.  All these cases have a few flaws and the Yuki cases (5512, 5513) are probably the best of all the cases I have.  Members have reported problems with earlier Yuki cases but mine are fine.  
 
DW cases are pretty good and all are 1680 spec inside and this means they need a 26.5mm dial and either a rlx 1525, 1565, 1575 date movement or ETA 2836/46 type movement.  The case sides are slightly rounded and not flat like OEM but this is good if you want the watch to look  polished/aged.  The engraving/stamping ranges from very good engraving to ratty engraving to laser etching to none at all.  Case backs also come with two thread diameters (one OEM spec, one smaller) but this is Ok unless you want to exchange case backs.  The case necks are a hair too small on all my DW cases so this must be an across the board defect/problem.  You just have to dig through aftmkt crystals until you find one that fits.  They also have 'spring wire' rotating bezels so you will need a bezel kit (crystal clamp ring, tension shim, rotating bezel, bezel insert), I used Clark kits.
 
MBK cases were the 'cheapo choice' for higher grade projects but they have almost disappeared from the scene, probably because no one wants to sell theirs as replacing them with something of equivalent quality is expensive now.  There is a LOT of info about them on the forum.  OEM crystals and case tubes fit fine, at least all of mine did.  All my MBK cases are made for a rlx 1525, 1565, 1575 date movement or ETA 2836/46 type movement and all are made for 26.0mm dials.  You can make a good 5512/13 but the stem has to be centered in the case tube.  There is enough metal to enlarge the dial opening to accept a 26.5mm dial for a 1680 project.  You can find the ins and outs about all this on the rlx forum.
 
Yuki cases were the top of the line starting out because they were just about all there was at the time besides 'Phong' (Jewelry & Watch) and his cases were much higher $$.  Yuki 55xx cases had case tube thread problems starting out and this really did a lot of harm to their brand but they made improvements and sold them for a few years with very few complaints.  I traded into an early '1680' Yuki case and it was fine but some buyers had problems.
 
IG44 had fine dials and very good cases but their offerings were limited because IG44 could be hard to get in touch with.  I have a '1680' case and it is very good but I have not seen one for sale in years although you might see a dial now and then.
 
JKF cases are fine for ETA/Miyota clone projects imho but it seems some sellers are not selling 'genuine' JKF watches.  Who knows?  My JKF case is Ok but the lug holes are a bit too high on the lugs and this is not good when the holes are enlarged to accept OEM spec spring bars.  It is on spec for crystals and case tubes.  If you get an actual JKF case, they are a bargain in today's market.
 
Things to look for imho:
1...OEM spec case neck and case tube threads.  Hard to tell until you get the case though.
2...Holes in lugs with room above and below so the holes will not be too close to an edge if they need to be enlarged.  This is hit or miss because the watch or case you get may not match the one in pictures.
3...A groove machined inside the case for case screws and/or case clamps.
4...Crown location not too high or low.  This does not bother me very much but it shows.  'Repexperts' will spot it every time.  'Genuine Rolexperts' probably not.  If any of this bothers you...wear a long sleeve shirt.  Ha!
 
Happy Hunting!
  
 
 
 
 

Great!
I want you e-mail.
Thanks


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[Ephry73]

Definitely miss my 5513


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[automatico]

"Definitely miss my 5513."

 

I know what you mean.  It does not matter if you and I had a favorite genuine watch or a favorite replica that we sold/traded...a miss is a miss.

I sold or traded away a lot of genuine rolex watches over the years that were not worth much at the time but are HOT! now.   No doubt I should have kept them all but everyone has 100% hindsight.

 

Two examples...

1...Have owned probably a dozen 5500 AK in the past and they were going for $500 to $700 when I had them.  If I could make a few $$ on one, it was gone.  Look at them now...empty cases are going for $500+.

2...I stuck a replica '16003' DJ together that originally had blind lug holes, sapphire crystal, and fluted bezel.  I drilled the lug holes all the way through the case, put a genuine engine turned bezel with aftmkt acrylic crystal and replica 'blackout' dial on it and it became a favorite replica.  I traded it away and years later got it back...the guy I traded it to never wore it so he gave the watch back for free.

It is basically worthless but I wanted it back because I missed it.  Am I crazy?   I am crazy.

Rolex Wristies thread - Page 141 - The Rolex Area - RWG

 

Times (and prices) have changed a lot and now I am left hanging on to a cigar box full of 'Favorite Replicas' that I would miss if they were gone.  It definitely is a crazy world!  

Btw, some of my favorite replicas came from NYC back when everyone said all you could find in NYC were 'Canal Street Specials'.  Not so if you 'knew a guy'.

[sels97]

"Definitely miss my 5513."
 
I know what you mean.  It does not matter if you and I had a favorite genuine watch or a favorite replica that we sold/traded...a miss is a miss.
I sold or traded away a lot of genuine rolex watches over the years that were not worth much at the time but are HOT! now.   No doubt I should have kept them all but everyone has 100% hindsight.
 
Two examples...
1...Have owned probably a dozen 5500 AK in the past and they were going for $500 to $700 when I had them.  If I could make a few $$ on one, it was gone.  Look at them now...empty cases are going for $500+.
2...I stuck a replica '16003' DJ together that originally had blind lug holes, sapphire crystal, and fluted bezel.  I drilled the lug holes all the way through the case, put a genuine engine turned bezel with aftmkt acrylic crystal and replica 'blackout' dial on it and it became a favorite replica.  I traded it away and years later got it back...the guy I traded it to never wore it so he gave the watch back for free.
It is basically worthless but I wanted it back because I missed it.  Am I crazy?   I am crazy.
Rolex Wristies thread - Page 141 - The Rolex Area - RWG
 
Times (and prices) have changed a lot and now I am left hanging on to a cigar box full of 'Favorite Replicas' that I would miss if they were gone.  It definitely is a crazy world!  
Btw, some of my favorite replicas came from NYC back when everyone said all you could find in NYC were 'Canal Street Specials'.  Not so if you 'knew a guy'.

Are you still working on DJ builds? I actually have a raffles build 16013 that I am trying to have the blind lugs drilled to make it more accurate and so straps aren’t so easily taken off at a tug!


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[automatico]

"Are you still working on DJ builds?"

 

All I am doing right now is trying to get my genuine rolex watches running because a few are apart and a few more have gummed up and stopped running because they have been stored so long.  It is slow going because I have a lot of outside work to do in the spring/summer/fall when the weather is good (no rain).

 

"I actually have a raffles build 16013 that I am trying to have the blind lugs drilled to make it more accurate and so straps aren’t so easily taken off at a tug!"

 

Iirc I drilled the lugs on the 16003 project using a regular 1.0mm drill bit in a bench drill press start to finish but next few times I used a 1.0mm 'ball nose' cutting bit in a Sherline milling machine to start the holes because the ball nose does not try to 'walk' on the rounded surface like a regular drill bit.  I only used the ball nose cutter to start the holes...after they were started, I swapped the cutter out for a 1.0mm carbide drill bit. I know one thing...no matter how it is done, it sounds a lot easier than it is.  Submariner type cases are not as bad but DJ type cases with skinny lugs are a pain. 

Something else...it seems to me a drill press has better 'feel' when drilling lugs etc. than a milling machine because the screw feed on the milling machine has no 'feel' much at all.

 

If you use a regular drill bit to start the hole, just leave a little of the drill bit sticking out of the chuck when you are starting the hole so the bit does not flex/walk or break as easily...I learned this the hard way.

After you get the hole started, pull just enough of the bit out of the chuck to pass through the lug without the chuck jaws hitting the lugs to cut down on flex.  You can get by with a cheapo drill press as long as the chuck runs true.  Sometimes you have to tighten/loosen/tighten the chuck a few times to get the drill bit to turn without a slight wobble.  I made a case holder out of wood to hold the lug sides level.

 

Here is what I used on the 16003 project and I got it on sale a few years ago for $59.99 iirc:

https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drills-drivers/drill-presses/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-60238.html

 

Ball nose cutter example:

Shank Ball Nose End Mill Set Carbide 2Flute Spiral Router Bits Engraving Cutter | eBay