TUTORIAL: How to tap your own Rolex 6538/5510 Case (Or any other case!)

[junbug5150]

Hi everyone,

 

I just went through tapping a Silix 6538 case to accept Athaya's 8mm Brevet crown. The cases needed to be drilled first and then needed to be tapped to accept the crown. Hope some of you find this useful

 

Tools & Parts:

- Silix 5510/6538 case

- Rat tail file

- Table Vise

- Cordless Drill (>7.8volt)

- Lubricant for metal cutting

- Tap Wrench

- 3.5mm Cobalt Drill Bit

- M4x0.35mm Tap

 

First step is to remove the existing tube (look how tiny that Silix tube looks!). I used a rat tail file to grip the inner tube. Once you've got a good grip, simply unscrew counter-clockwise.

 

Voila!

 

Next, you secure the case in the table vise. Lube the hole where the tube was and use the 3.5mm Cobalt drill bit with your cordless drill. I

used my 7.8v first, but wasn't as effective so I used my 20v. Had to be patient but wasn't difficult at all. Drill all the way through.

 

Be sure to clean off any burrs. You can use that same rat tail file from earlier.

 

Now you need to put that M4 tap onto the tap wrench. Make sure you get the 0.35mm pitch! 0.7mm are more common, but they won't work! I've purchased mine from Merlintools on Ebay for $12 per. Get a couple while you're at it.

 

I couldn't photograph since both my hands were occupied, but once the tap bites onto the case you do a 1 turn clock-wise and then 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. By going counter clock-wise you're removing the excess steel. Athaya tubes are pretty long so I went all the way through the case.

 

Now you should be able to hand screw that new tube in most of the way. Towards the end I used that rat tail file again to tighten all the way down. NOTE: if you have a choice, use the triangular file. Cone shaped are very difficult to remove from the tube because it bites more area on the tube.

 

And there we go

 

 

BONUS:

So we know 3.5mm Cobalt and an M4x0.35mm tap is needed for the 8mm Brevet Athaya crown and tube.

For Rolex Explorer 1016s to accept the 6mm gen crown and tube, you'll need to drill out the case using 0.110" or #35 first and use the M3x0.35mm tap. If you aren't up for it, jmb is your go to

TC 16610 to gen tube seems to have the same diameter so drilling doesn't seem necessary. It would use the same tap as the 1016, M3x0.35mm. See here: https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/sh...ll-this-myself

Hope this was useful! Good luck!

 

 

[jackflash]

Nice one. Great tutorial!

[mir36]

Very useful!  Always wanted to know what folks used to install Athaya's crowns.  Thanks for sharing!

[hologramet]

Thanks a bunch for taking the time to document and explain!

Maybe threads like this should be linked in a "sticky" tutorial overview?

Edited December 10, 2015 by hologramet

[Nanuq]

Great writeup! 

One thing to watch for is keeping the drill parallel/flat to the axis of the case.  I had a Silix case a couple years ago that the axis of the tube was angled down when viewed from the lug ends... so the stem was always stressed and bending as it turned.  It was tough, but it was redrilled flat so the stem went straight in to the movement.

Another thing... Silix used to make a divot in the case where the tube seats.  That resulted in the crown screwing in too far when the tube was fully seated.  You can correct that by filling  the divot with JB Weld, grinding and polishing flat, then drilling and tapping. 

[slay]

Great tutorial. If you want to make it easier to tap, use a 3.6mm drill (I also had to use a 3.5mm since my dremel doesn't like the 3.6mm drill, but tapping was pretty hard and only works if you have a high quality tap, the cheaper taps may get damaged)

[junbug5150]

Great tutorial. If you want to make it easier to tap, use a 3.6mm drill (I also had to use a 3.5mm since my dremel doesn't like the 3.6mm drill, but tapping was pretty hard and only works if you have a high quality tap, the cheaper taps may get damaged)

Great writeup! 

One thing to watch for is keeping the drill parallel/flat to the axis of the case.  I had a Silix case a couple years ago that the axis of the tube was angled down when viewed from the lug ends... so the stem was always stressed and bending as it turned.  It was tough, but it was redrilled flat so the stem went straight in to the movement.

Another thing... Silix used to make a divot in the case where the tube seats.  That resulted in the crown screwing in too far when the tube was fully seated.  You can correct that by filling  the divot with JB Weld, grinding and polishing flat, then drilling and tapping. 

Thank you both for adding pointers! I'm happy to see that I'm able to contribute back to the forum!

[RickFlorida]

Does anyone know if I'll have to re-tap as well if I have the newer Josh Cartel 5513 (now with the nice flat caseback) and I want to install an Athaya 702 crown?

I like to know the plan so I can get taps or materials.  Thanks.

[junbug5150]

Does anyone know if I'll have to re-tap as well if I have the newer Josh Cartel 5513 (now with the nice flat caseback) and I want to install an Athaya 702 crown?

I like to know the plan so I can get taps or materials.  Thanks.

Ask Adrian  He's the one that told me what I needed to use for a Silix case with his crown & tube.