Blindpirat Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Guys, need your advice, I'm about to build my mother a present DJ 15200 or 16200/16000 full Gen except movement. Do you have any suggestions on what clone of 3135 to get? SA or Yuki or TC v2(if it exists)? Or any other? Need updated information please. It should accept Gen hands, dial, datewheel, you know. Thanks! Sent from Hell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Isn't Yuki your best bet? SA has a weak stem and is prone to breaking then you can't put a gen stem in there as I recall. I've never heard of the TC V2. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blindpirat Posted January 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 So, Yuki is the only option so far? Sent from Hell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capre Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 Yuki is the only one that can hold the gen date disc and accept gen hands. A3135 has different diameter of the datedisc and might not accept gen hands, some people had gen hands installed on the A3135 without problems and some people could not do it. So its a bit of a shot in the dark with the A3135. If you choose Y3135 you will need to have it atleast serviced upon arrival. You need to have a few gen parts installed aswell in order to make the movement reliable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Propofol Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 lol whats TC v2 ? Only reasonable option is a Yuki one and "dust free" one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raiser Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 I bought an SA 3135 for my gen 16200 case a few years ago when the Yuki was sold out and found that the SA 3135 did not fit the gen case--the movement is too large in diameter. When the Yuki's were available again, I purchased one and had mymanmatt put the watch together for me. Everything went great except that Matt discovered the gen crown has a post that's too long and needed to be replaced by a rep crown. I'm still interested in finding out if the gen crown posts can be cut down to fit but haven't had a chance to pursue this...maybe you can come up with a solution . Below is a link the post I made about my Yuki build. Good Luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 23, 2016 Report Share Posted January 23, 2016 "Yuki is the only one that can hold the gen date disc and accept gen hands." "So, Yuki is the only option so far?" Swiss Eta 2836 or 2892 are other options but they may take a little more work. They are very reliable though. A genuine or aftmkt 3135 date disc will work on an Eta 2836/2892 but you have to cement it over the existing date disc...the 3135 disc rotates the same direction as a 2836/2892, 1530 and 3035 discs do not. I have a 15200 with a Mido/Eta 12892 (12.5 ligne, the 2892 is 11.5 ligne) with a genuine dial, date disc, hands, case, crown, crystal...all genuine except the movement and strap/buckle. A forum friend put it together and I bought it. The dial feet were clipped off and dial dots were used (iirc) to hold the dial in place for installation The movement is held in place by case clamps and screws and the pressure on the movement exerted by the case clamps also helps hold the dial in place. The 2892 Eta hands are .90/1.50/.25 and the rolex 3135 hands are .95/1.40/.22 so the H hand had to be closed a bit and the M and SS hands had to be opened. The nos chronometer grade Mido movement was serviced and the case still had the green sticker on it. It was basically a new watch. At today's prices it will probably cost close to $1000 to put one together with a 3135 clone or serviced/nos Eta 2836/2892. I would go with the 2836 because parts are easy to get (compared to a 3135 clone) and all repair guys are familiar with them. I do not remember what was said about the space under the dial for the date disc on the 12892 but the 2836 has enough room. The H wheel, CP etc might have been swapped for taller parts but do not remember. The main difference between the 12892 and 2892 is the 12892 main plate is larger in diameter but will still fit into genuine spec rolex cases. Here are some good pictures of an Eta 2892: http://www.chronometrie.com/eta2892/eta289202.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rawrzhu Posted January 24, 2016 Report Share Posted January 24, 2016 Nice, I just bought my mom a gen 15210 and it looks stunning. Good luck I also concur from all the research I have gather Yuki seems to be the best next to gen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blindpirat Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Thank you so much guys for all your help! I do have almost all parts To build it, case set, crystal, bezel, tube. So I could save on details a bit and use Yuki 3135 with Gen bridge and rotor. I thought about buying her full Gen. But I have parts to build it, and honestly use Gen 3135 in DJ is not worth it. IMHO Sent from Hell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted January 26, 2016 Report Share Posted January 26, 2016 "I thought about buying her full Gen. But I have parts to build it, and honestly use Gen 3135 in DJ is not worth it." I agree. Here's why: I have owned quite a few genuine rolex watches since the 1970s and had few qualms about owning them until they cut parts off in the USA starting about 20 years ago. Since that happened, I sold all the modern models (except for a few) and concentrated on vintage 1530 base models because I had a stash of parts for them. The few modern watches still left are two with 3035, one with 3135, and two with 3130. I am not bragging, I am complaining. I also adopted a few new rules to go by since parts were cut off: (1) I will not sell a genuine rolex watch to anyone I know. Why? Because when you sell a rolex watch to someone you know, they expect you to keep it running for the rest of your/their life. No kidding, this has happened to me many times. (2) There is no way in the world that I will wear a modern rolex except to 'road test' it because I do not want it to break down while I own it. (3) As far as I am concerned, genuine modern rolex watches no longer exist, except the five I still have. What does exist (to me) in the wide, wide fk'd up world of rolex? Genuine lower tier vintage models with 1530 base movements, Frankensteins, and 100% replicas. Nothing else. That being said, I think you are doing the right thing by not going genuine. (it sure took a long time to get to the end) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blindpirat Posted January 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2016 Thank you automatico! That's exactly what I'm thinking. Sent from Hell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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