Build scope creep - what should I build next?

[jigelow]

I start researching and then run across something and change my mind. I need help deciding on what to build based on realistic (i.e. not impossible to find a decent-looking case, dial, bezel, insert), not crazy expensive (i.e. $1.5k ceiling, maybe). Here is what I keep going over:

 

• 6542 - I know @JoeyB made some awesome inserts and bezels, but don't know if any are still floating out there, nor how difficult it is to find a decent case and dial beyond that (Yuki?)
• 1675 - this was the GMT that I began loving before I found the bakelite insert of the 6542. 
• 5513 - I wanted to build one and ended up buying a JMB-Cartel/Yuki 9401 that satisfied my desire
• 5512 Gilt - I keep convincing myself it's different enough of a no-date, but good gilt seems hard to find!
• 1680 - still my favorite sub, but there's a reason the last time I decided down that path, I ended up building an early 16610 instead.
• Monte Carlo - I've always loved these, but not enough to pull the trigger on several opportunities I've had for parts. I don't know what it is. I guess I just feel like I may not ever actually wear it.

 

So what do you guys think? I know...it's personal preference. But I honestly need some help with direction. It's been quite some time since I built my 16610 and I have the itch again. My daughter is set to arrive in June, so I feel this may be my last chance to complete a build for a bit, so I want to make sure it's achievable!

 

Thanks guys!

[TheSociety]

Whatever you build should compliment your existing collection. I think a Monte Carlo is one of my fav chronograph designs. The other being it's brother the 62xx Daytonas. But I'm a sucker for a good chronograph


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[JoeyB]

Even when going budget, a 6542 is expensive. The Tiger2 case was my preference, but they are no longer in production. So for me, that leaves the Explorer ll 'Steve McQueen' cartel watch. Order the watch with the movement you prefer. I have both the ETA2846 and the DG3804B, and both are running for years now. I understand the desire for a gen Swiss movement, but the Chinese  movement is just as accurate, and substantially less expensive in both the short and long run. No need to service, just replace with a brand new movement for under $35.  

You need to work the case, grinding off the crown guards, and then taking the edge off the bottom sides for the thinner case look. 

I use the dial that came with the watch, sand it to bare brass and refinished with a water slide decal. There are threads explain how to do that by me and Bart Cordell. It's not hard once you have help from this forum, and they are quite good and really inexpensive as long as you don't count your time! I wear my DG3804B daily, it's now 5 years old and the brass under the decal that shows through for the script has not tarnished at all. So the decal seals it.  

The hands come from Rafflestime. 

The red/black date wheel is printed on clear self sticking address label and applied to the stock date wheel painted the shade of white/aging you prefer. 

It all fits together as it came as an Explorer, so that hassle is eliminated. 

I still have some inserts and bezels made to gen spec. But someone on Ebay has them cheaper after buying mine and copying. 

Good luck. I've had a lot of fun building and learning and rebuilding the 6542, all started by Freddy333 years ago. I came here looking for info on the 1675 when I saw Freddy's first 6542 in mid project. I didn't even know that it existed. But that insert got me! The rest is history! 

 

[jigelow]

Wow! Thanks for the info @JoeyB! That's extremely helpful!

 

I'll have to read more on dial decals, but on the surface, I feel I don't have the talent or equipment to print dials. However, as you mentioned, that sounds like the most cost effective route and perhaps the best way to get accurate fonts. 

 

I'm in the same boat you were with finding that insert and falling in love. 

 

Perhaps I should build something more "simple" like a 5512 or big crown while I learn more about dial printing. 

[hologramet]

It is NOT expensive to build a gilt 5512 

Search for my threads... I have one with a Tudor 7928 and one with a MBW 5512! You can get away with sub 600 USD actually.. 1000 USD and you have a killer. 

[jigelow]

3 hours ago, hologramet said:

It is NOT expensive to build a gilt 5512 

Search for my threads... I have one with a Tudor 7928 and one with a MBW 5512! You can get away with sub 600 USD actually.. 1000 USD and you have a killer. 

 

I'll take a look. Thanks! That may be the route to go. Build something that has plentiful options and parts while researching and gathering for a 6542. 

[JoeyB]

If you are in the U.S. you can go to Hobby Lobby and get the decal paper for about $10, and use an online coupon for 30 - 40% off. Walmart has the Krylon Crystal clear gloss sealer at the best price, under $4. Most any printer that you print your photos on is good enough. You'll only be printing black on clear decal paper. The lume I use is a water based acrylic glow paint available at most art supply stores for about $5. I tint to color using kid's water based brown, just a touch or so. That's where the practice and difficulty is. I use a nib pen on the coronet and straight markers, but people use all sorts of things to apply the lume. On the round hour markers I use a bamboo skewer for shish-ka-bob, flatten the end, dip and touch. It's almost perfect and the only easy part! The thing that's nice is that it is all water based, so you can wipe away a mistake with a wet Q-tip. 

I've posted it all somewhere on site, but here is the pic of my 6542 dial for your use if you choose to.

 

[jigelow]

This is super helpful, @JoeyB! Thanks for sharing your expertise. I have a Hobby Lobby I pass once a week so I'll check it out and play around. Have you played with nitrocellulose lacquer at all? Me and my old man used to refinish guitars and you could get some interesting aging effects by changing temperature drastically. 

 

In the meantime, I picked up the 5513 PCG case in the Parts forum here from @Champagnesky. 

 

Any my recommendations on good bezels and dials? 

[JoeyB]

I had issues with decal sealer. Even after two days drying, it made the ink blot and run. I called the decal manufacturer and he recommended the Krylon. I can use that within 30 minutes of printing. As you can see from the pic I posted, I get the aged patina by varying the spray orange peel to smooth. 

[automatico]

"I have both the ETA2846 and the DG3804B, and both are running for years now.  I understand the desire for a gen Swiss movement, but the Chinese movement is just as accurate, and substantially less expensive in both the short and long run.  No need to service, just replace with a brand new movement for under $35."

 

+1

I usually give Asian '21 jewel' movements a low rating but have a 'GMT' with a DG 3804B that I wear now and then and it has been reliable for 5 or 6 years.  As long as the movement is in good condition, I remove the hands/dial etc and clean and oil the balance jewels, oil the pallet stones/escape wheel teeth, and anything else I can get to.  This is a half azz fix but they seem to be fine after this little bit of attention.  The calendar works/date QS parts can be a pain though.

[JoeyB]

I bought my two DG3804B movements for one 6542 and my 1675 brand new from Otto Frei. They both were quite clean looking as compared to those that came in reps, and regulated easily. I don't know that is what makes the difference, but it looks that way to me. What I liked about the date wheel was the date 'ring' was easier to work with and lining it up using little tabs to secure it to the date wheel. 

[automatico]

"What I liked about the date wheel was the date 'ring' was easier to work with and lining it up using little tabs to secure it to the date wheel."

 

Speaking of 3804B date wheels...I have a few (no lug holes with hollow link/sel) 16710 GMT II and 16570 Exp II with 3804B movements and they all have proper modern style 'closed' rolex font numbers on the date wheels and the same offset as genuine...one piece dw without overlay.  I got them 5 or 6 years ago. 

Is this dw font and offset common on new 3804B replacement movements or only made for certain watches?

 

BTW...this was a strange batch of watches with sapphire crystals, brass movement spacers with case screws, hollow link high quality bracelets, steel case tubes and crowns, and fine looking dials/hands.  The 'wholesaler' they came from claimed the cases/bracelets were made for 'swiss' movements but the supply was cut off so they put 3804B in them...probably BS but they look very good.  I have a few of the same exact GMT cases/dials with swiss eta movements from 10+ years back but they have hollow mid link bracelets with hoods so maybe the story was true (more or less).  

[JoeyB]

Yep, I forget to mention that the date lines up properly for the Rolex magnifier. I don't know about the font, I've always changed that part.

[tframo]

I vote for the Monte Carlo 

[jigelow]

3 hours ago, tframo said:

I vote for the Monte Carlo 

 

Thanks. My decision was made when I impulse bought a 5513 PCG case.

 

Now I need to start studying dials and inserts and bugging you guys with questions on what I should get. LOL