Crystal Replacement

[HaydenM]

Hi all,

I'm currently in the process of fixing up my 1675 and the next thing to be fixed is the crystal. I have ordered what I believe to be the correct crystal for the watch and now am just waiting for it to make the long trip down under. I have not had to install a crystal yet in my watch exploits and was wondering how to best go about it. 
 

Although I acknowledge this is obviously cheap would something like this:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Watch-Crystal-Back-Press-Opener-Case-12-Dies-Watchmaker-Replacement-Tool-Kit/252844298694
be adequate to install the crystal. I would prefer not to get too deep into the purchase of a tool I will honestly use only a handful of times no doubt.

Are there any other parts I need to pick up besides the crystal and the crystal press? Any glues?

Thank-you all in advance for any help


-HaydenM

[mymanmatt]

You will need something to support the back when you press the crystal down. That should be all you need. Be sure the retainer is correct size or you could crack the crystal. Good luck

[HaydenM]

1 minute ago, mymanmatt said:

You will need something to support the back when you press the crystal down. That should be all you need. Be sure the retainer is correct size or you could crack the crystal. Good luck

 

So just checking, a cheap press should be adequate? 

[automatico]

"So just checking, a cheap press should be adequate?" 

 

Cheap is Ok but one with metal dies would probably be better as the plastic dies are sometimes too flexible when pressing bezels over crystals allowing the bezels to get 'out of level'.  Then you are in a mess because 'out of level' bezels can mark or crack the crystal sidewall and maybe even bend the bezel. 

 

I have a press similar to the one in the picture and use it to install plastic GS, Stella BB etc 'PHD' type crystals.  On this type of crystal, you place the empty case on the base of the tool and use a small padded die on the bottom side of the press to push the crystal up against the top die (with tapered inside wall) that is a little bit larger than the crystal OD.  Pushing the small die into the center of the crystal and up against the top die shrinks the OD of the crystal just enough to allow it to fit into the case without making a mark.  As soon as the crystal fits into the bezel, you let the pressure off the press handle and the crystal expands and locks into the case.  My press came with both straight side and tapered sidewall dies.  I use the tapered sidewall dies on the top side of the PHD type crystals.

 

Padded bottom die = a felt or chamois pad placed on the die so it will not mark the crystal.

'PHD' type crystals = 'snap in' type with no reflector ring.  PHD is a GS Crystal Co designation that has become a generic term.

 

For rolex type bezels I use an old cast iron 'BB' crystal press with aluminum dies.  See the 9th post down in the 'Building an MBW Sub' sticky in the rolex section.

 

 

"Are there any other parts I need to pick up besides the crystal and the crystal press?  Any glues?"

 

A good press and a precision dial caliper are all you need.  Glue is a no-no unless the watch never gets wet.

 

Reminder...generic crystals may not be oem spec...one might fit the watch and the next one might fit Uncle Buck's safety glasses.       This is why you need the caliper.

[Mike on a bike]

So you must take guts out of watch (case alone) and insert off I gather ,saw it done with watch basically intact online?

[automatico]

"So you must take guts out of watch (case alone) and insert off I gather, saw it done with watch basically intact online?"

 

You can use a 'claw type' crystal lift that grips the crystal around the outside and squeezes it down to r/r the crystal.  They sometimes leave marks/scratches but sometimes they are the only thing that will work.  On older 'front loader' omega seamasters etc with 'armored' type crystals where the movement comes out the front, I pop the crystal out of the case using a Bergeon 5011 crystal pump to prevent damage.  The omegas use straight sidewall 'armored' crystals with reflector rings and need to be pressed back in the case with a crystal press.  Many have decorative bezels and the oem crystals are slightly 'mushroom' shaped and the slightly larger OD at the top of the crystal holds the bezel down on the case.  If you use a regular armored crystal, the bezel ring is prone to fall off.  Many watch Gomers will remove the bezel/crystal combo all at one shot with a blade and this can bend the bezel. 

 

The crystal pump has fittings that go over the case tube after the crown/stem has been removed.  The stems are two piece snap together type.

Front loader Benrus and many others use PHD type crystals and they are inserted with a claw type crystal lift.

 

'Armored' = straight side acrylic crystals with reflector rings.

'PHD' type crystals do not have reflector rings and usually have a slight [censored] around the bottom outside edge where they mount into the case.

'Front loader' watch = movement comes out the front side, they usually have a one piece case with or without a bezel ring.  Some can be a real hassle.

 

I just hit a few high spots but crystals are fairly complicated when you consider all the different types and r/r methods.

[Mike on a bike]

OK my friend not going there . Wise in the ways of the forum is MOAB but has ten thumbs, off it goes to smith!

[HaydenM]

Okay, well down the rabbit hole it seems like I am going, would something like this be superior with the metal dies?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Watch-Back-Case-Press-Kit-Set-Closer-11-Dies-Watchmaker-Repair-Plastic-Crystal-/132157784461?hash=item1ec537c18d:g:FdkAAOSwAANY7xpP

I don't need to worry about any front removal stuff as it's a rolex 1675 rep, so I'll have easy access through the caseback.

[Mike on a bike]

PS 5512 w/ plexy of course...

[automatico]

"Okay, well down the rabbit hole it seems like I am going, would something like this be superior with the metal dies?"

 

It looks better, notice it is hand held without a base.  One with a base is easier to work with but it should be Ok.  When mounting crystals with magnifiers, be sure the die is deep enough so that it will not be pushing on the magnifier lens.  If the die hits the magnifier you can drill a hole in the die where it hits to make room for the lens. 

 

[HaydenM]

"Okay, well down the rabbit hole it seems like I am going, would something like this be superior with the metal dies?"
 
It looks better, notice it is hand held without a base.  One with a base is easier to work with but it should be Ok.  When mounting crystals with magnifiers, be sure the die is deep enough so that it will not be pushing on the magnifier lens.  If the die hits the magnifier you can drill a hole in the die where it hits to make room for the lens. 
 

Thanks automatico. I'll give it a look in the morning to see if I can find anything. Your held is extremely valuable.


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[HaydenM]

Hey all, crystal is now replaced. Just a note, at least with the Clark 116 crystal and the cartel case a crystal press was not needed and the act could be done by hand. 

 

Here are the results: