Zigoto Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Hi guys, I know that i'm surrounded but the best advisors. That's why i'm asking you: Case (price ?): I heard that the best is JMB, but he's out of stock right now and i'd like to ask you if you have any suggestion to find one. ETA 2824 (price ?): I have no idea to find one except from eBay or some website like this Dial + hands (price ?): Same as JMB, i heard that YUKI is a good supplier. But still if you have any infos Bracelet (price ?): I'd like to get the OG replica bracelet from the Explorer 1016, i don't know if it's the 7836 or the 7206 and where i can grab one ( YUKI/NTRADING) Crown + Crystal (price ?): If you have some tips ??? Thanks guys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dani Cica Posted August 22, 2017 Report Share Posted August 22, 2017 I haven't built a 1016 yet but my suggestions would be: - Swiss ETA 2840 from Swatch - it's compatible with 2836 ($40) - 2836 case from Raffles Dials ($50) - Yuki yellow marks dial and matching hands for 2836 - maybe you'll have to cut off the dial feet ($110) - Zulu leather strap from eBay ($20) or Yuki 20mm bracelet ($72) or folded style from Yuki ($190) - Clark tropic 22 crystal from eBay ($10) - Gen 6mm crown on eBay ($30) - 20mm fat spring bars from eBay ($10) How about that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomhorn Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 (edited) There are many posts of people's 1016 builds (including mine linked below). Many ways to skin the cat, so do your research, and set your budget. Until you do that, it's pointless to ask people for recommendations. For example, my recipe is going to cost you over $1,000 and take months of patience to get the parts. If you're only looking to spend half that and want it yesterday, then you would need a different plan. Edited August 23, 2017 by tomhorn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pompompurin Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 (edited) depends on your budget IMO (no matter what, use a 2824-2 case and not a 2836-2 because 1016 doesn't need date complication and 2836-2 cases have the wrong crown/stem/tube height) - JMB case (based on rep 16200 case that is reshaped and has 2824-2 movement compatibility - the gen 1016 has a peculiar shape that is quite different to gen 1600 / 16000 / 16200 Datejust). Case should come with the appropriate tube for 6mm gen Rolex 600 crown (double check with JMB) - Gen 6mm 600 Rolex crown (the rep crowns are crap - don't cut corners here) - lowbeat Swatch ETA 2840 movement or similar models like ETA 2789 (make sure to check if the crown height is appropriate for a 2824-2 case - double check via ranfft. i.e. 2824-2 stem height is 1.8mm). Alternatively if you are feeling adventurous, you can convert a 2824-2 into lowbeat by swapping the escapement, balance, and pallet fork from a 2846 movement - Yuki dial and hands - Clarks T22 - spring bar / strap / bracelet / etc is up to you and depends on what bracelet you pair it up with (i.e. raffles 78360 bracelet uses 1.8mm spring bars) Edited August 23, 2017 by godkiller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zigoto Posted August 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2017 Thank's for your help. I want star from finding the case and build up after. I already contact JMB about the case, and he told me it'll let me know if he got something. But for now, i don't have any other option to find a case. Maybe there is some seller on the FORUM ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydenM Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Now while the price is hard to nail down here is my 1016 build: It was built on the cheap using a JMB case (I know you may have issues sourcing them but try across the fora posting in WTB subfora). The dial was from Yuki and as were the hands. I used a 2824-2 which admittedly was not the correct beat rate but was easier for me to source. The rest of the parts like dial, tube, crown etc came with my JMB case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmb Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 It's looking like if I want to make any more of these I'll have to use a 2836 case. The profile would be the same but the crown position would be visibly too low, not sure I want to do that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zigoto Posted August 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 everyone count on you !!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
horor-ogy Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 This topic is so old, but still a goldmine of info. Any recommendation for the source of a good 6mm rolex crown that fits the raffles 36mm case? the one from raffles is kinda sad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
automatico Posted June 10, 2021 Report Share Posted June 10, 2021 I am not familiar with the Raffles 36mm case but the first thing you need to determine is...was the case made for the older type 6mm case tube that uses a regular 6mm crown or the newer type that uses a 5.3mm case tube that takes a later 6mm diameter crown made to fit on a 5.3mm case tube? Both crown types are 6mm outside diameter and look alike but they use different case tubes. In my experience most of the newer cases are using the 5.3mm case tube but you must know for sure before getting a crown. I looked on eBay at genuine used 6mm steel crowns and the crowns that were $35 to $50 a couple years ago are now over $100 so that sort of knocks them out of the race. Besides that, some may not have much more than a half turn of threads left and you will not know until it arrives. After you determine which type of crown you need, you might ask around locally and see if a retired watch repair guy or a repair guy still in business has any good used rolex crowns. You never know what you might find. As for replica crowns, they come in three basic flavors: 1...All steel cap and inner part. Usually pretty good. 2...Steel cap crimped over a base metal inner part, similar to originals except the inner part is almost always brass instead of nickel silver like used on genuine crowns. Usually pretty good. 3...One piece cap and inner part made of pot metal of some sort. Low quality. Genuine steel crowns come in two basic flavors: 1...Steel caps crimped over a nickel silver base. 2...Later model all steel one piece aka 'monoblock'. Also beware that many inexperienced (or crooked) sellers call all silver colored metal 'stainless steel'. Many 'stainless steel' items are silver colored pot metal, plated pot metal, or plated brass. 'Pot metal' = cheap cast zinc alloy etc. I know the info above is not much help but it tells what is out there. Here is some info when using a genuine rlx 16000 type case: Rolex 1016 Explorer- the rolo modified 16000 case - The Rolex Area - RWG With VN cases around $500+ a genuine rlx 160xx case might be an option if you want to drill the lug holes, do a bit of reshaping etc...watch out for case corrosion, many are in bad condition. An ETA 2836/2846/2879 etc should fit as the 160xx cases are made for rlx cal 3035 and they are thicker than the 3135 used in later 162xx cases that need the thinner ETA 2824. A no date rlx 1520/1530/1560/1570 movement is a good fit in a rlx 162xx case but not in a rlx 160xx case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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