TC V7 Extreme value these days ?

[APguy1]

Hi all,

 

Been distant on the forums recently and in my absence it seems TC has gone off the forums ? Unsure to what has a happened but I am aware that the availability of such beautiful watches of his are on the low ? Is this pushing the prices up ? I’ve heard rumours of them selling for $1000 USD correct me if I’m wrong ?

 

Here is my LV V7 Extreme one of his last builds:

 

 

 

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[Pombok]

My opinion, nowadays, is that I wouldn’t buy a 5 digit sub without a SH3135 movement in it, something which TC’s do not have. You can pick up a JF for $400, throw in a gen insert and date wheel for an extra $250 and you have an excellent sub for $650. In my opinion, better than a TC. Just my humble opinion though, others will disagree I’m sure.

[alfa1]

1 hour ago, Pombok said:

My opinion, nowadays, is that I wouldn’t buy a 5 digit sub without a SH3135 movement in it, something which TC’s do not have. You can pick up a JF for $400, throw in a gen insert and date wheel for an extra $250 and you have an excellent sub for $650. In my opinion, better than a TC. Just my humble opinion though, others will disagree I’m sure.

@Pombok,

upon all you’ve mentioned there is one item that moves the TC to a much higher level, the Kensington High Dial, I’ve recently seen both side by side the difference is striking, in overhead light the Kensington High is alive and sparkling, even the dial printing sparkles at you, case up a “Top or Chronograph ETA 2824” and you have a piece that will fool all but the anal savants...oh and you can find all the parts for an ETA or Sellita to keep it in good order, I highly doubt that is the case with a 3135 copy.

 

@APguy1

Its worth what you paid for it or more, depending on the buyer. From what I gather from the many forums, the V7 inner mid case machining is different than the V6, you cannot case a genuine 3135 movement in the V7.

[Pombok]

@alfa1 I do agree that the Kens High Dial is the difference maker, however the purchase price of the TC is +$700 when the JF is +$400, you can fit a gen dial on the 3135 for not much more than the difference.

As for the availability of the 3135 parts, I have had no issues sourcing the 3 parts I’ve needed when modding.

I’m not sure what the TC clasp is like, but I think the JF clasp is poor and the only major flaw to the watch.

[alfa1]

@Pombok

Well said. My own experience, the V6 was purchased for $565.00+$8.50 priority mail. A genuine bezel and genuine LV insert

both In Rolex bubble paks $135.00 + $13.85 post. A close friend of mine was at that time a Maintenance Supervisor for United Airlines in Jedda Saudi Arabia. He purchased them at a AD in one of the Luxurious malls.

 

As you are probably aware the Saudis replace most Rolex bezels with Diamond, Ruby or Emerald encrusted bezels and dials, my friend also a WIS was in awe of the panoply of spare dials and bezels.

 

i have an ‘F’ series Submariner LN and side by side, even with an anal x20 forensic inspection they look identical, with the exception of the maxi dial and hands of course.

The clasp is very passable as genuine.

 

Cheers.

[automatico]

"...oh and you can find all the parts for an ETA or Sellita to keep it in good order, I highly doubt that is the case with a 3135 copy."

 

Agree. 

 

I have always had a major problem with a durable product without parts availability.  Motorcycles for instance...I've owned a lot of them and have never been denied an oem part from a dealer.  Sure, the parts get to be obsolete but that is a fact of life and the parts become unavailable because they're obsolete and sold out, not because the AD will not sell them to you.

 

Watches are another matter.  Watch companies (especially the greedy swiss watch companies) want complete control of the product even if it was sold 10 years ago.  After all, what good is a DOA watch with no parts available to repair it...or a watch where 'The Factory' demands you send it to them for a $700 'overhaul' for a $75 part.  Not Good imho.

 

Genuine rolex...I have owned quite a few and many of them needed parts sooner or later.  Not too bad back when parts were available from supply houses but that is no longer the case.  I know about 'official parts accounts' because we had one for 10 years but not now.  For this reason I only wear a 4 digit watch with a 15xx movement if I wear one at all. 

Why?

Because I have spare movements and parts for the oldies but not the newbies.  I like the oldies better anyway.

Btw, an 'official parts account' does not allow cases, bezels, dials, bracelets etc to be sold to general account holders. 

 

As for the SH 3135..they are nice and may accept a few genuine parts but I would still go with a swiss Eta 28xx of some sort.

Why?

Because they are rugged, reliable, easy to work on, and parts are plentiful, relatively cheap, and easy to find.

Problems?

Yes.  DW overlays are a hassle for example along with dial foot location, hour wheel, CP sizes etc but these obstacles are relatively easy to overcome.  Easier than finding a hairspring for an SH3135.

My guess is there will be a lot of 'no longer running' SH3135 replicas for sale before too long.

 

One thing I do like about the SH3135 is if you buy the latest 'New, Improved 1 to 1' submariner etc with one in it and install a genuine dial/hand set and genuine 3135, you will have a pretty good Frankenstein that you can turn back into a 100% replica quickly and easily.

Just don't get the 'stein wet.  

 

[WatchingSG]

"...oh and you can find all the parts for an ETA or Sellita to keep it in good order, I highly doubt that is the case with a 3135 copy."
 
Agree. 
 
I have always had a major problem with a durable product without parts availability.  Motorcycles for instance...I've owned a lot of them and have never been denied an oem part from a dealer.  Sure, the parts get to be obsolete but that is a fact of life and the parts become unavailable because they're obsolete and sold out, not because the AD will not sell them to you.
 
Watches are another matter.  Watch companies (especially the greedy swiss watch companies) want complete control of the product even if it was sold 10 years ago.  After all, what good is a DOA watch with no parts available to repair it...or a watch where 'The Factory' demands you send it to them for a $700 'overhaul' for a $75 part.  Not Good imho.
 
Genuine rolex...I have owned quite a few and many of them needed parts sooner or later.  Not too bad back when parts were available from supply houses but that is no longer the case.  I know about 'official parts accounts' because we had one for 10 years but not now.  For this reason I only wear a 4 digit watch with a 15xx movement if I wear one at all. 
Why?
Because I have spare movements and parts for the oldies but not the newbies.  I like the oldies better anyway.
Btw, an 'official parts account' does not allow cases, bezels, dials, bracelets etc to be sold to general account holders. 
 
As for the SH 3135..they are nice and may accept a few genuine parts but I would still go with a swiss Eta 28xx of some sort.
Why?
Because they are rugged, reliable, easy to work on, and parts are plentiful, relatively cheap, and easy to find.
Problems?
Yes.  DW overlays are a hassle for example along with dial foot location, hour wheel, CP sizes etc but these obstacles are relatively easy to overcome.  Easier than finding a hairspring for an SH3135.
My guess is there will be a lot of 'no longer running' SH3135 replicas for sale before too long.
 
One thing I do like about the SH3135 is if you buy the latest 'New, Improved 1 to 1' submariner etc with one in it and install a genuine dial/hand set and genuine 3135, you will have a pretty good Frankenstein that you can turn back into a 100% replica quickly and easily.
Just don't get the 'stein wet.  
 

Hi pardon me
What is TC?


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[automatico]

"What is TC?"

 

https://rwg.cc/topic/142125-tc-submariner-housing-gen-3135-gen-parts-part-i/

 

[altesporsche]

Id still take the JF over the TC because of the price. 

I bought a JF put a gen dial, hands, insert and date wheel and side by side with the model it mimics (mid 2000's) put it in your hand and aside from the bracelet the watch is indistinguishable to look at. we are talking at minimum a 9 year old watch for the 16610 with the rehaut engraving.  sure the TC bezel feels much more precise, but not worth the extra cheddar for that watch in my opinion. the extra can go into a date wheel on the JF and have a nearly perfect watch in the LN. 

 

However ill take it off your hands if you are selling it   I want one just because lol   

[WatchingSG]

"What is TC?"
 
https://rwg.cc/topic/142125-tc-submariner-housing-gen-3135-gen-parts-part-i/
 

What does TC stand for?


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[SSTEEL]

Thomas Caddell 

[WatchingSG]

Thomas Caddell 

Tyvm cheers


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[alfa1]

5 hours ago, SSTEEL said:

Thomas Caddell 

@SSTEEL

Considering the nature of this hobby, I would highly suspect that name to be an alias.

[SSTEEL]

Yes, it is.