What is the quality of gold plating like on replicas?

[Faster897]

I like the look of this watch, but I have no experience of any gold plating with replicas. I would be grateful for some thoughts and views.

 

Maybe some of the very experienced members here could even offer a some technical explanations between gold wrapping, gold plating and the various things to be aware of? 🙂

 

 

Are replicas with gold plating as good as SS watches, or is it a step too far?

 

For example, the 11610 in SS is a "super replica" but would a gold version be as good?

 

Some pictures of watches with gold plating and some owner thoughts would be great.

[hologramet]

Genereally speaking I do not recommend gold plated watches because it's usually the instant and biggest tell.

 

1) Sometimes they get the tone right

2) You usually can't repolish or improve on factory polishing

3) Natural fading, scratches and instantly "ruining" a fully functional watch.

 

Usually the "gold" plating isn't even gold. It's something/alloy that has the same tone as gold. There was a thread about this an "wrapped" links, turned out BP links (and others) weren't even gold.

[Faster897]

That was my instinct, so I am glad I asked!

 

So when a TD describes something as gold plated, they're telling porkies?

Thank you for your helpful post.

[automatico]

"...explanations between gold wrapping, gold plating and the various things to be aware of?"

 

In the real world, 'gold wrap' would equal heavy gold filled or gold capped.  The old USA jewelry standard tor 'gold filled' used to be 1/20 gold by weight...1/20/14 = 1/20 14k gold by weight.  You can see this on some older GF bracelets etc.

In the replica world 'gold wrap' equals mostly heavily wrapped BS.  For sure there were some very good replica bracelets made with a thin layer of gold on the bracelet center links (tutones) but gold was around $400 troz back then, now it's $1200 troz.  Look closely at a genuine rolex tutone bracelet end link (16233 for example) and you will see real 'gold wrap' where a strip of solid gold is soldered to the top of the stainless end link/hood.  The bracelet center links are solid 18k gold along with the bezel but the (original) crown has a gold cap crimped over base metal (nickel silver).

There may still be some 'gold wrapped' bracelets around but they will be expensive.  I would guess a tutone 13 link oyster type bracelet with actual 14k or 18k  'gold wrapped' center links would sell for $300 or more because a high quality oyster type bracelet with solid 18k center links will cost around $1000 to $1100 retail.  Wholesale price is probably $800 or so if you could find a source.

 

 

"...wrapped links, turned out BP links (and others) weren't even gold."

 

Yep.  I have a few jubilee type bracelets with '18k center links' that are actually plated brass.  They look good and will last a long time but they have to be kept clean and polished with Simichrome, Flitz etc or the edges of the mid links will fuzz up with corrosion. 

 

 

"18K Thick Rose Gold Thick Plated (5 mils)…"

 

5 mils = 5 thousandths of an inch.  Not bad.

For comparison, the old 'gold cap' rolex 1550, 15505 etc had 40 mils (.04 inch) of gold on the case.  The bezels were solid gold.

Never saw one worn through but have seen a few where an idiot polished through the gold on the sides and top edges. 

 

Otoh if they said 5 microns...

5 microns = 0.00019685 inch

 

There is also 'flash gold plating'.  FGP = thickness less than 7 millionths of an inch, sometimes used to give gold tone color to cheap items. 

Less than 7 millionths of an inch ain't much.

 

Also PVD coatings...fairly rugged and no gold at all.

[Mike on a bike]

" In the replica world 'gold wrap' equals mostly heavily wrapped BS. " LOL love that line and for the most part true but in regard to TT bracelets meant side of links gold so wrapped , plated ones were silver on sides big tell. But as the guys have stated correctly doesn't mean crap about quality/amount of gold used on the watch this was just our way of differentiating between the two bracelets. I am sure a lot of you guys remember the big to do over a deal w/ one of those TT bracelets years back by two know member. What a shit storm with me in the hot sit as mod in charge of sorting it out, the above wrapped gold on side of links /plated none to tell your buyer what he was getting became pretty much accepted all over because everyone was reading these guys go at it.

[rag9fx]

I just pulled the trigger on a (my first) gold tone rep  as well and would be interested to hear what peoples' experience has been with 'plating' on reps in the past couple years. With the quality of finish with reps that i  have been seeing recently and with the advent of better plating processes etc did I lul myself into false sense of security with the recent experience i  have had with non rep gold plated items?

[Faster897]

23 hours ago, automatico said:

"...explanations between gold wrapping, gold plating and the various things to be aware of?"

 

In the real world, 'gold wrap' would equal heavy gold filled or gold capped.  The old USA jewelry standard tor 'gold filled' used to be 1/20 gold by weight...1/20/14 = 1/20 14k gold by weight.  You can see this on some older GF bracelets etc.

In the replica world 'gold wrap' equals mostly heavily wrapped BS.  For sure there were some very good replica bracelets made with a thin layer of gold on the bracelet center links (tutones) but gold was around $400 troz back then, now it's $1200 troz.  Look closely at a genuine rolex tutone bracelet end link (16233 for example) and you will see real 'gold wrap' where a strip of solid gold is soldered to the top of the stainless end link/hood.  The bracelet center links are solid 18k gold along with the bezel but the (original) crown has a gold cap crimped over base metal (nickel silver).

There may still be some 'gold wrapped' bracelets around but they will be expensive.  I would guess a tutone 13 link oyster type bracelet with actual 14k or 18k  'gold wrapped' center links would sell for $300 or more because a high quality oyster type bracelet with solid 18k center links will cost around $1000 to $1100 retail.  Wholesale price is probably $800 or so if you could find a source.

 

 

"...wrapped links, turned out BP links (and others) weren't even gold."

 

Yep.  I have a few jubilee type bracelets with '18k center links' that are actually plated brass.  They look good and will last a long time but they have to be kept clean and polished with Simichrome, Flitz etc or the edges of the mid links will fuzz up with corrosion. 

 

 

"18K Thick Rose Gold Thick Plated (5 mils)…"

 

5 mils = 5 thousandths of an inch.  Not bad.

For comparison, the old 'gold cap' rolex 1550, 15505 etc had 40 mils (.04 inch) of gold on the case.  The bezels were solid gold.

Never saw one worn through but have seen a few where an idiot polished through the gold on the sides and top edges. 

 

Otoh if they said 5 microns...

5 microns = 0.00019685 inch

 

There is also 'flash gold plating'.  FGP = thickness less than 7 millionths of an inch, sometimes used to give gold tone color to cheap items. 

Less than 7 millionths of an inch ain't much.

 

Also PVD coatings...fairly rugged and no gold at all.

Thank you all for the excellent posts.

 

Am I right in saying then that the link I put is good quality and is worth going for? Bold font above to highlight the point I'm referring to. I would love to try that Panerai if the gold finish is good. Would you recommend a buy personally?

[Mike on a bike]

Faster we sort of have as a group an aversion to gold of course some have a few I would say very few are into it heavy. This being said buy what you like what ever microns it has it will wear off in time. Some maybe be better than others and it could also be one batch of a certain watch that holds up better, these are reps QC and application of the plating process vary from batch to batch even of the same model. As far as your link looks OK for the price . Have you had rose gold before / I thought I'd like it bought a fairly in expensive Gen one didn't work for me like regular gold tone better goes with my other stuff like my wedding band, just a heads up from my experience with gold .

PS if you were conus I'd send it over for you to try the tone out for a bit.

[mlfloyd]

I have a gold Day-Date that I purchased about 8 years ago from an RWG Dealer. I haven’t worn it in several years but there’s no sign of wear in the gold finish.

It’s my only gold rep. I buy all SS mainly to not be bothered with the finish wearing off.


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[By-Tor]

The old 16613 TT Submariner reps had middle links that were "solid shit". Whatever that material was (brass, etc) it didn't wear off.

 

I'd like to see even ONE decent gold replica where the gold has been worn off. I've never seen one. I've seen those ultra cheapie Canal street ones though... but not a decent one.

 

If you have one, please share pics.

 

I'd say it's quite safe to buy the quality reps with fake gold plating. They look pretty good... at least the ones that I've had. 

[mlfloyd]

I always wipe my pieces down with a damp cloth after wearing, then gently go over it with a jewelry cloth. It’s good for the finishing, and minimizes any chance of corrosion from skin oil build up and perspiration.

In the early 80’s. I bought an all gold Seiko with a 3 mm thick gold plating. I gave it to my father and now my brother has it. It still looks the same.

The gold on the better reps today can be as high as 5 mm.




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[mlfloyd]

I agree it’ll last much longer if you don’t make it a daily beater.

If you do plan to wear it every day, be mindful keep your wrist from resting on a surface as a table or desk unless you’re wearing long sleeves.


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