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1680 build need help


milsubman

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Ok here is my project:

 

I have a genuine 1680 dial that was re-lined and shaved to 26 mm to fit a 5513 case. After reading that most rep cases have a 26mm opening for the dial I figured this should be ok. I have a genuine 1565 movement with original hooked 7 date disc as well. 

 

But Where do I find a case for A decent price ? Yuki doesn’t have any and MQ quoted me $950 for their case...ouch. I’ve already blown my budget on the dial and movement so trying to keep the case cost down. But I don’t seem to be looking in the right places. Any help appreciated. 

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My advice is to hurry up and wait. If you're going with a gen dial and movement it's worth it to find a good case. There's a lot more additional expense coming when you embark on a build in that rare atmosphere so your budget will be blown again a few more times over.

 

Like, are you going with a period correct fat font insert? Gen pearl? Top hat crystal or beveled? 702 crown and tube? Just in those 5 parts you can easily spend another $1,800 so yeah, a good case is sorta mandatory.

 

Unless you get one of our serious modders involved, then they can make a cheap Cartel case look perfect ... for a price.  And they have waiting lists.

 

It's all in the details at this level and the eye has an uncanny knack at picking out something that doesn't feel right. So be patient until the right case comes along, not necessarily the best case.  In my last build I waited 3 years for the right dial to come along.  It was worth it.

 

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MSM:  "I have a genuine 1680 dial that was re-lined and shaved to 26 mm to fit a 5513 case.  I have a genuine 1565 movement with original hooked 7 date disc as well."

 

Nanuq:  "My advice is to hurry up and wait."

 

Good advice.

I will add one thing to  "My advice is to hurry up and wait."  While waiting, read everything you can find about these projects to avoid making more mi$take$.

 

The mi$take:

You would have been better off if you had left the dial at 26.5mm because all oem spec '5512/5513' cases are made for 26.0mm dials (your shaved dial is Ok for this), and thinner  no date  1520/1530 movements (1530/60/70 in 5512 -- same case). 

So...your movement is too thick for a 55xx case and the dial is too small for a 1680 case.  If the dial was still 26.5mm an oem spec 1680 case would work.

Q...What are the options?

A...Not much using oem spec 5512/13 cases because of the date movement thickness.

Q...What will work?

A...A 5512/13 cartel case that is oem spec (correct case neck size/bezel set size/dial seat/case tube threads) but made for an ETA 2836 will  probably  work...or an MBW/MBK case. 

Note...Cartel cases can be hit or miss from one batch to the next, even from the same dealer.

 

Read the sticky 'Building an MBW Sub' a couple times to find some of the answers to putting rlx movements/oem spec dials in MBK cases.

Good luck with the project!   :tu:

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You could also special order a 1680 case from e.g. Ruby but specify that you want a narrower (26mm) dial opening.

Also.. 1680 subs used 1575 movements (marked 1570).


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Yes, subs used 1570’s. As far as I understand the 1560 is the same dimensions, but with a slightly slower bhp. I sourced a complete OP date for the project with what I was told had a recently serviced 1570....instead it was a 1560 inside. No big deal I thought. 

 

All the reading I had done suggested that the rep cases were all cut for 26mm dials. So I guess I was a bit hasty in trimming he dial. 

 

So I t seems that I may have to scrap this project based on my dial mistake. Unless I can find a case that will fit a date movement with the 16mm opening. Or use a eta movement. Damn. 

 

Where do I find a cartel case? 

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34 minutes ago, milsubman said:

Yes, subs used 1570’s. As far as I understand the 1560 is the same dimensions, but with a slightly slower bhp. I sourced a complete OP date for the project with what I was told had a recently serviced 1570....instead it was a 1560 inside. No big deal I thought. 

 

All the reading I had done suggested that the rep cases were all cut for 26mm dials. So I guess I was a bit hasty in trimming he dial. 

 

So I t seems that I may have to scrap this project based on my dial mistake. Unless I can find a case that will fit a date movement with the 26mm opening. Or use a eta movement. Damn. 

 

Where do I find a cartel case? 

 

Or an MBW case? 

 

F*#k. Kicking myself now for trimming that dial 🙄

Edited by milsubman
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"Also.. 1680 subs used 1575 movements (marked 1570)."

 

True. 

Most refer to them as 1570 no date or 1570 date movements.  I have owned 40 or 50 watches with 15xx movements over the years and have never had one with 1575 stamped on the auto bridge.  Bought a '1570' on eBay 7 or 8 years ago that turned out to be a 1560 with a 1570 auto wind plate or assembly...they turned the rotor to hide the 'curb feeler' over the hairspring.  I paid $650 for it so looking back it was an Ok deal.

 

From what I have seen on 15xx movements:

No date serial numbers have no letters, numbers only...if original and not converted.

Date movement serial numbers begin with D.

Milgauss 1019 with cal 1580 serial numbers begin with M.  Loose movements are few and far between.

Day-Date serial numbers begin with DD and auto wind bridges have 1555 (18000 bph) or 1556 (19800 bph) on them...every one I have seen was this way.  Seems they were more careful with DD movements being correctly labeled. 

Cal 1530 may or may not have a serial number from what I have read (do not know for sure).  I have one in a 5501 tutone AK (dated III-62) and it has a serial number.

Never saw a 1520 with a serial number...yet.

 

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3 hours ago, milsubman said:

No reply from rubysswatch...

 

….any leads on the Cartel or MBW options?

 

Appreciate the help guys. 

 

 

 I usually hear back from them within 24-48 hours.

 

Contact here...  infor@rubyswatch.com   You will be given a password to view the products there.  

Edited by projectologist
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