vmena Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 So, finally the project is over... even still needs some final adjustments, but here we go with the summary:Genuine 16233 caseGenuine dialGenuine sapphire crystalGenuine crownLuenfat's datewheelTudor handsAftermarket TT jubilee bracelet from a good friend (thanks avara/007)ETA 2824Custom aluminum spacer Issues:Hollow end links of the bracelet sounds like thousand little bells... nothing unexpected but I have to find some new end links and fatter spring bars.Even being quite confidence about the source, I wander the crystal is genuine... maybe just a personal feelingThe crown doesn't screw up to the end of the tube... but I remember it happened in the past with my genuine Date TT.Nevertheless, I'm quite happy with the final result... now it's time for a new project... maybe a WG version. Enjoy pics (sorry for the bad lighting and quality but were taking very fast at night) MB stuff is all genuine and not for sale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dieselpower Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Nice. The kind of watch nobody would ever call out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manuel Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Thats a very nice tt watch! I too have bought some items I would like to show you. Lets keep in touch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ubiquitous Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Looks great! I know you've been working on this one for quite sometime.... Nice to finally have it done, eh? For your next project... My vote is for WG, all the way... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alligoat Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Looking good, Congratulations! It's always nice to get these projects wrapped up. I like the way your sapphire sits above the bezel. I'm noticing that more on the late model DJ's these days. Good Job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pitimany Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Excellent, Do you have a pict of the aluminum spacer ? Thx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmena Posted March 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 For your next project... My vote is for WG, all the way...Randy... that's exactly my intention... glad we have similar taste Do you have a pict of the aluminum spacer ? I did not have the opportunity to make pics... next time Thats a very nice tt watch! I too have bought some items I would like to show you. Lets keep in touch! Thanks my friend! next project will be soon and for both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stilty Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Sweet! Nice job. My genuine parts drawer is filling up for my franken-just project, as well as for the upgrade on my franken EX-1. Just waiting for the extra long cannon pinions to get here... been told they shipped last Friday. Need the longer cannon to modify so I can fit genuine hands. See Post on Modified Cannon Pinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmena Posted March 19, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Sweet! Nice job. My genuine parts drawer is filling up for my franken-just project, as well as for the upgrade on my franken EX-1. Just waiting for the extra long cannon pinions to get here... been told they shipped last Friday. Need the longer cannon to modify so I can fit genuine hands. See Post on Modified Cannon Pinion You're a really master my friend! great project... I wush some day I will be able to have your skills... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stilty Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 You're a really master my friend! great project... I wush some day I will be able to have your skills... so very far from being a master.... but thank you for the kind words. Hey, with your date wheel, I remember we discussed on other board... did you get open of closed fonts? I ordered a couple and to my surprise, I recieved one open, and one closed. The open font had very bold printing, and the closed font printing was thinner and a closer match to 3135 printing. Still not correct as the font size is too big and fills up the cyclops too much. Ended up buying a genuine 3135 datewheel and it is 100% now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falco Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Good stuff Just love that goldie stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmena Posted March 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 so very far from being a master.... but thank you for the kind words. Hey, with your date wheel, I remember we discussed on other board... did you get open of closed fonts? I ordered a couple and to my surprise, I recieved one open, and one closed. The open font had very bold printing, and the closed font printing was thinner and a closer match to 3135 printing. Still not correct as the font size is too big and fills up the cyclops too much. Ended up buying a genuine 3135 datewheel and it is 100% now. Same happened to me. This 16233 has the bold open 6 & 9 font, and almost cober the whole date window. I also have other datewheels from same source (whote background) with thinner and closed font. I think I'll end it up like you, buying a genuine 3135 datewheel. But I can tell you the bold font is not far from genuine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14060 or 16610? Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Couple of quick questions as I'm doing this as I type - what glue did you use on the overlay? Also, the overlay actually covers the teeth which "ride" under the keyless works cover plate - how did you get everything to lay flush? Does the overlay just ride on the cover plate? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmena Posted March 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Couple of quick questions as I'm doing this as I type - what glue did you use on the overlay? Also, the overlay actually covers the teeth which "ride" under the keyless works cover plate - how did you get everything to lay flush? Does the overlay just ride on the cover plate? Thanks! This overlay matchs the ETA datewheel size, sno no big deal. I used a special double side thin tape from my watchmaker. With this tape you can also glue the dial, and by putting severals taped one on top of the other you can make the dial seat higher and allowing the datewheel run free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14060 or 16610? Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 Cool - this is the info I needed. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14060 or 16610? Posted March 25, 2007 Report Share Posted March 25, 2007 OK, what I ended up using was rubber cement. It was awesome - since I goofed up a few times, I was able to remove the overlay, "rub" off the dried cement (comes off like eraser), and start over again. By putting a bead on both the datewheel and the overlay, I was able to build a small thickness which raised the overlay flush. This helped it clear the keyless works cover which holds the teeth down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmena Posted March 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 OK, what I ended up using was rubber cement. It was awesome - since I goofed up a few times, I was able to remove the overlay, "rub" off the dried cement (comes off like eraser), and start over again. By putting a bead on both the datewheel and the overlay, I was able to build a small thickness which raised the overlay flush. This helped it clear the keyless works cover which holds the teeth down. This another very good solution... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14060 or 16610? Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 OK, another question as I'm having trouble lining up my stem. There appears to be a raised strip where the crystal "bottoms out" so to speak - does the dial butt right up against the bottom of the crystal, or is it retained on the other side of the raised strip? My dial hasn't arrived yet, so I'm a little bit confused. Can the dial pass all the way through the case if the crystal is not there to hold it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfreeman420 Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 I believe the dial stops at the rehaut, no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmena Posted March 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Can the dial pass all the way through the case if the crystal is not there to hold it in? Yes... absolutely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14060 or 16610? Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 OK, that makes sense. I guess I'll understand more when my dial and bezel arrive. But from what you're telling me, I'm guessing I will eventually have to dremel my spacer down just a hair bit more to get it to clear that strip. I will wait for the dial so I can lay it on the movement with the spacer and ensure that everything gets smoothed down perfectly round. One more thing - it appears that the 2824-2 stem will be too long to allow the crown to screw down, but I can't be too sure since I'm not positive if my crown is gen. The crown tube is gen and the crown screws into it, and the O-ring seal between the tube fits snugly around the base of the crown, but I'm not sure it's gen. Either way, it looks like I need to cut the stem a millimeter or two. Did you have to do this for yours? How can I be positive that this crown is gen? Also, in case I end up getting another crown some day, how difficult would it be to get a new stem? Thanks again for all the help! Hopefully this project will be done in a week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmena Posted March 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 OK, that makes sense. I guess I'll understand more when my dial and bezel arrive. But from what you're telling me, I'm guessing I will eventually have to dremel my spacer down just a hair bit more to get it to clear that strip. I will wait for the dial so I can lay it on the movement with the spacer and ensure that everything gets smoothed down perfectly round. One more thing - it appears that the 2824-2 stem will be too long to allow the crown to screw down, but I can't be too sure since I'm not positive if my crown is gen. The crown tube is gen and the crown screws into it, and the O-ring seal between the tube fits snugly around the base of the crown, but I'm not sure it's gen. Either way, it looks like I need to cut the stem a millimeter or two. Did you have to do this for yours? How can I be positive that this crown is gen? Also, in case I end up getting another crown some day, how difficult would it be to get a new stem? Thanks again for all the help! Hopefully this project will be done in a week or so. I have to ask my watchmakerr since he did that part of the job, but I'm quite rure he used standard steam from ETA movement. You ahve to press stronger but it nearly rise the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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