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Review of my Vacheron Constantin 31 Days Retrograding Calendar


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Hi,

I received this new toy some days ago from Brandon (Saswatch)... Sometimes simplicity also means beauty. That Vacheron belongs to the < 100 USD yard, but is definitely a great watch AND rep. :thumbsupsmileyanim:

And first some shots... FYI the strap is not the one that came with the watch.

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(Sorry for the blue sticker that remained, I just realized this now...)

1. The Dealer

For the first time I have not ordered through a website, but through the boards, after I discovered Brandon (Saswatch) while discussing about Montblanc pens. Although this model does not belong to the watches he usually carries, he hunted it for me and quickly could make an offer for the new toy I was looking for. I appreciated the fact that he mentionned some small changes on the rotor compared to what I requested (actually the manufacturer now only put the Malta Cross instead of The Cross + Vacheron Brand).

Shipment done by EMS : reached me in the same week.

I particularly enjoyed discussing with Brandon, who answered all my emails within the Day, and I'm the one asking so many things ! :unsure:

2. The Watch

That Vacheron is perpetuating my trend trying to buy less chrono watches for more simple things. It's definitely a dressy watch, not very big, but enough for my small wrist. It's 37,xx mm diameter without the crown, crown that can't be screwed : you will therefore wind it without any particular manipulation. The pusher at 10 will set up the date, fully functionnal and retrograding. That's original, I like it, although not very convenient always as you tend to consider the arrow hand as the main hand.

There's no seconds hands, but basically it's not disturbing, and complying with the gen.

The recessed pusher at 4 will set up the week date.

After some trials with Asian 21J, I definitely think that's a good movement, provided that it won't be used in watches with too many complications : I have learnt to hate FAUX functionnalities. That must be the rep fever anchoring in my brain.

That movement looks particularly beautiful, it's a bit differnt from the other 21J I own. That's probably due to the additionnal centered plate, which is hiding a part of the wheels, making the 21J less recognizable.

The crystal seems to be sapphire/synthetic sapphire (water drop test passed).

It's completely flat, which I personally enjoy on watches, as it avoids some bad magnifying glass effect and light reflection. Some will prefer doomed crystals, well, different people, different tastes.

It seems you can find this watch somehow cheaper from Silix, but I have a light doubt on the crystal which is advertized there as mineral glass. Otherwise I could not spot differences just from the pictures. Those who are insterested, maybe it's worth trying.

Otherwise, this time I could not notice any issue in the finishing. Everything's really top notch and that's new for me as far as cheaper reps are concerned.

That's a lesson for me and it just prooves that a good rep is not necessarily expensive. There has been a constant inflation in sales prices these times, and I'm happy and feel better knowing our hobby can still be an affordable one.

As mentionned already, the strap is mine : there's one lame habit from rep manufacturers, providing plastic looking (real ?) straps when you choose a leather dress. Probably to save money although I know excellent alligator or croc grain straps from much cheaper gens I bough on ebay (Trias for instance) . That's a pity, but I can live with it, as anyway I like hunting for special straps.

3. The rep

Here too, I have only one thing to say : very accurate for the price ! Of course, my polished SS has nothing to do with the solid gold original case :lol: but...

The shape and the size of the case are pretty accurate (the gen is advertized as 37mm). No idea about the height.

Both the week dial and hands size are very accurate. The fonts look very good to me to, anyone spotted a difference ?

As for the crown and the left pusher, ok, here we get the main difference from the overall aspect of this Vacheron. Especially the pusher at 10, which is not set at the exact right place.

Let's have a look at the bottom of the watch :winkiss:

Well, here stops the quest for a perfect rep. Sure : I haven't seen yet a rep with an accurate mechanism, except when it's using the genuine one. And that can't happen at this price level. The back is very sexy, all the markings look great (and without typing mistake <_<) but have nothing to do with the gen. Noone could expect it anyway.

Here are some shots of the gen (I only found the golden version).

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Conclusion : if you like dressy watches, you can't be disappointed with this Vacheron. I guarantee your enjoyement with it !

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Glad there are other VC fans.

This one may be the next for me.

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It's less accurate against the gen, but I like the officer flip lid cover on the case back. Saw it on Joshua's site, as you can see from the pics.

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Glad there are other VC fans.

This one may be the next for me.

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It's less accurate against the gen, but I like the officer flip lid cover on the case back. Saw it on Joshua's site, as you can see from the pics.

I actually prefer the perpetual hands and over-all look...

I think there is one in 40mm... That would be perfect for me....

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Correct, it's somehow bigger than the Retrograding Calendar I have (40mm against 37mm). I hesitated a lot between both and my choice went to the Retrograding (despite maany opposite opinions on the boards) due to a simpler design, which made me think of a probable more reliable mechanism.

On the Perpetual, the date is a fantasy function, but you will notice it only once a year !!! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

I would love this Perpetual in gold colour (I have no gold watch yet).

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Correct, it's somehow bigger than the Retrograding Calendar I have (40mm against 37mm). I hesitated a lot between both and my choice went to the Retrograding (despite maany opposite opinions on the boards) due to a simpler design, which made me think of a probable more reliable mechanism.

On the Perpetual, the date is a fantasy function, but you will notice it only once a year !!! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

I would love this Perpetual in gold colour (I have no gold watch yet).

Really ? I thought the date functions worked....

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  • 10 months later...

Hi,

this is an Hadley Roma genuine Louisiana alligator strap. Yo ucan find it on ebay between 100 & 120 dollars. I've been owning it for a good year now, and it really developps a rich patina. It's one of my favorite : curved ends, flat (which fits well with a dressy watch) and no stitching.

The review is too 1 year old, and I have to update 2 points :

-Saswatch is not a supported dealer anymore

- I sold this VC as it had troubles with its rotor : it could only be hand winded.

I have just received a very similar (yet bigger) watch : a VC perpetual calendar, which I will review soon.

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