So close.....yet so far.....

[freddy333]

I am looking for alternative methods for locking the V72 movement into my DW Daytona case (the circled areas are the case locking screw holes)

After spending weeks trying everything I can think of, including cutting/bending/modifying literally scores of 'assorted case locking tabs' & trying to manufacture case locking tabs from Campbell's soup tin lids, I have finally given up. Either the locking screws keep the caseback from closing (and I have tried several different screws), or the locking tabs do not hold the movement tight enough to keep it from flopping around in the case, or something.. So I am wondering if anyone has run into this problem before and what you did that worked.

I cannot tell you how frustrating it is to have my Newman 6239 sitting here running perfectly, but unable to be worn because the only thing holding the movement in the case is the winding stem. Winding it, setting the time or just normal wrist movements cause the movement to 'knock around' inside the case, which is not a good thing

I am getting desperate and wondering if I might be able to get away with either squeezing a few dabs of silicone sealant (designed to seal automotive windshields (this is the stuff that comes out of a tube and dries like a gray colored rubber)) at a few points around the movement, between the movement and the inside of the case?? Of course, the silicone dabs would have to be placed at locations so that it does not interfere with any of the movement's moving parts.

Another thought was to wedge a few toothpicks in between the movement and inside of the case at the same locations, and break them off leaving only the tips. I think that would probably work, but I am worried that if any of them came loose they might end up lodging themselves in the movement...not a pretty thought.

Any thoughts or recommendations? Ziggy??? Anyone???

[poopypants]

why even chance this far along?!?!

Edited September 28, 2007 by poopypants

[freddy333]

Sorry, I do not understand your question?

I am not looking to chance anything.......I am just looking for a solution.

[RWG Technical]

I only know of one solution, that is to make a clamp that catches the movement and also the case. As you pointed out, there are many problems you have to overcome, but so far I have by some miracle been able to get a clamp made, and a screw to go in and hold it down, without interfering with the caseback...

That's the big problem with any of these mods, nothing is made for what your trying to put it into, and it requires literally hours of messing around trying to get all to work together, not easy, or quick...

RG

[freddy333]

Zig -- The problem is that that is exactly what I have been working at for the past couple of months, but I am not getting anywhere. Any chance I could contract this task (of stabilizing the movement in the case) to you? I realize that you may not fare any better than I have, but I have run out of ideas and I am now just chasing my tail and running around in circles. I think the only hope is a fresh perspective. Can you PM me?

[Greystash]

What about a metal lathe? Could you machine out a groove about 3mm wide and 0.5mm deep into the inside of the caseback? That could give you the screw clearance.

[stilty]

How much room do you have between the movement and case? It doesn't look like much, but how about a retainer ring? It is hard to explain, but I'll post a picture when I get home of what I mean. Basically, you have a movement retainer ring that prevents the movement from sliding back and forth, and the caseback, when screwed in, applies pressure downward to keep the movement from moving up and down. I have used this method before when I did not have a spacer ring or case clamps.

[Guest avitt]

How much room do you have between the movement and case? It doesn't look like much, but how about a retainer ring? It is hard to explain, but I'll post a picture when I get home of what I mean. Basically, you have a movement retainer ring that prevents the movement from sliding back and forth, and the caseback, when screwed in, applies pressure downward to keep the movement from moving up and down. I have used this method before when I did not have a spacer ring or case clamps.

That may not be an option on the VJ72, stilty, because certain chrono parts must be able to extend beyond the circumference of the movement (the case is actually cut out to accomodate this).

Edited September 28, 2007 by avitt

[freddy333]

What about a metal lathe? Could you machine out a groove about 3mm wide and 0.5mm deep into the inside of the caseback? That could give you the screw clearance.

I thought of doing that, but I don't really want to modify or cut into the case back on this watch.

[freddy333]

How much room do you have between the movement and case? It doesn't look like much, but how about a retainer ring? It is hard to explain, but I'll post a picture when I get home of what I mean. Basically, you have a movement retainer ring that prevents the movement from sliding back and forth, and the caseback, when screwed in, applies pressure downward to keep the movement from moving up and down. I have used this method before when I did not have a spacer ring or case clamps.

I think the original (Flytimer) donor watch used a retainer ring along with case clamps, but the ring does not fit the DW case. Unfortunately, I took the movement out of the donor case without first taking photos, so I am not exactly sure how it was installed.

If you have pictures, that would be helpful. I am pretty desperate at this point since I have tried every standard method I can think of..

[freddy333]

That may not be an option on the VJ72, stilty, because certain chrono parts must be able to extend beyond the circumference of the movement (the case is actually cut out to accomodate this).

Yes, I think that was the problem I had when I tried to fit the retainer ring from the original donor case into the DW case. It was hitting something and the movement stopped running.

[Dizzy]

i dont know if it would work.. but... just an idea..what if you mounted some short little coil springs to the spots where the case clamp screw holes are? I am thinking little springs like inside a ball point pen some something but maybe a little stiffer... cut them to the right length and JBweld them or glue them to the movement. Then when you screw the caseback down, it puts pressure on the springs and hold the movement in place. You would have to get a spring stiff enough so that the turning of the caseback doesnt fold the spring over, and the spring would have to be still enough to provide enough force to hold the movement in place. It would be a bit of trial and error but i think it would work. You could even use a dab of the silicone you were mentioning also just to hold the movement securely while you screw the caseback on for the first time.

Lonnie

[freddy333]

i dont know if it would work.. but... just an idea..what if you mounted some short little coil springs to the spots where the case clamp screw holes are? I am thinking little springs like inside a ball point pen some something but maybe a little stiffer... cut them to the right length and JBweld them or glue them to the movement. Then when you screw the caseback down, it puts pressure on the springs and hold the movement in place. You would have to get a spring stiff enough so that the turning of the caseback doesnt fold the spring over, and the spring would have to be still enough to provide enough force to hold the movement in place. It would be a bit of trial and error but i think it would work. You could even use a dab of the silicone you were mentioning also just to hold the movement securely while you screw the caseback on for the first time.

Lonnie

I tried something similar to that using some of the case tabs. Instead of installing them so they fit into the slots that run along the inside surface of the case, I bent them to create springs so they would press against the caseback. Unfortunately, the stiffer (thicker) tabs caused the caseback not to fit and the less stiff (thinner) tabs just bent flat when I put the caseback on. I think coil-style springs would either bend or be to tall to fit the caseback. But I appreciate the idea just the same.

[Dizzy]

ya i was just thinking out loud more than anything... i honestly dont know.. there has to be someone thats worked on these before and knows an easy way to mount them. Have you contacted DW?? Im sure he would be helpfull. I have his email addy if you need it. Maybe Nanuq can help.

Lonnie

[stilty]

Hi Freddy,

Okay, this franken is a completely different animal than what you have, but it may give you an idea or inspiration.

When I built this, I had no case clamps nor spacer ring so I improvised. I found an old movement ring from another watch that held the movement secure. I used the caseback to secure the movement in the case. I had to carefully file down the tabs until the caseback screwed on properly. When screwed down, the caseback put pressure on the ring and held the movement secure. I can't remember why I have (a), (B ), (c ), etc. I think it was for my description when I originally posted these pics back on TRC years ago.

[freddy333]

Hi Freddy,

When I built this, I had no case clamps nor spacer ring so I improvised. I found an old movement ring from another watch that held the movement secure. I used the caseback to secure the movement in the case. I had to carefully file down the tabs until the caseback screwed on properly. When screwed down, the caseback put pressure on the ring and held the movement secure.

The donor watch

contained a similar ring, but it had 3 cutouts for the stem and pushers to fit through. One of the first things I tried all those weeks ago was to fit this ring into the DW case, but, unfortunately, it did not fit (too large).

[Guest avitt]

I know that you don't want to consider this, but maybe your best solution is to reassemble the Flytimer, sell it on eBay, and buy another Vj72/726.

I know that the Wittnauer and Enicar versions of the VJ72 fit the DW case perfectly, with case clamps.

Edited September 29, 2007 by avitt

[freddy333]

Avitt -- When you're right, you're right (and on both counts):

1. I do not want to part with the Fly (in fact, I have a V23 that I will be using to relaunch the Fly soon).

2. I have an Enicar, which has donated its V72 for my other Newman project (6241).

[alt.watch.obsessive]

Hi Freddy,

Just thinking out loud...it sounds like the case back will put pressure on the screws to hold the movement forward in the case, so that's one dimension. The stem will keep it from twisting...not sure if that's a dimension LOL, but two. Can you find a thin material that you can cut to make clamps of a length so they are absolutely flush against the outer edge of the case when screwed in? That should keep it from going side to side in the case even if the clamps on their own are not quite enough.

Otherwise, have you ground the ring that fit the other watch (assuming it's too big for the DW)?

Good luck. I admire anyone who even attempts a watch like this.

Steve.

[RWG Technical]

Good luck. I admire anyone who even attempts a watch like this.

Steve.

I have done a number of these up, and the problems are normal when trying to piece together these watches. I have another on the way next month for the same mods, it's never simple or easy getting these custom jobs assembled.

RG

[FxrAndy]

I would think that the retainer ring would be the best solution, like the one in siltys post, i have found these in a couple of vintage watches and seam to do the job well, the problem here is finding one that would fit?? the original being to large and you want to use it to put the other flytimer back together. If you had another that was either too large or too small you could split it on the oporsit side to the crown and puchers to alown it to shrink or grow to match the circumference of the movement and the case back presure will then hold it in place maybe