rolexconfuse Posted May 27, 2008 Report Posted May 27, 2008 So I got my Noob sub from Andrew today, before ordering I inquired if it was the same sub as reviewed in this link by by-tor: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=13184 Andrew said it was and for $79 bucks it was heck of a deal. Some members in the forum commented that the movement was not the same as watch in the review but I was okay with this. As long as the case, bracelet and everything else on the watch was the same. So how's the watch? Well the finish on the bracelet awesome. I compared the finish to my gen date just and the finish is identical to my eyes. No play on the bracelet, completely tight. The rep bracelet is a bit sharp around the edges but that can be taken care of. The sides of the bracelet are not polished. I'm not sure if that's the way they're supposed to be on the gen. If someone could comment that would be great. Now the bezel (not insert) on the watch doesn't look like the bezel reviewed in the link or like the bezel of a gen. My bezel looks more like the Invicta coin-edge bezel. It's not sloped down, instead it's some bezel edges then a straight down. With all that out of the way, there are a few things i need to do. 1. The bracelet squeaks a bit and it's not entirely smooth. I've heard that you using car wax and WD50 oil will make it better. What order should i do it in? And how long do i soak or leave the stuff on for? What kind of car wax should i use? 2. the edges are a bit sharp, what i can use to smooth them out without destroying the finish? 3. How easy is it to pop out the entire bezel assembly if i wanted to replace it? Any guides on doing this? 4. By-tor had a guide for sanding down the crown guards using sandpaper, but there was no mention of what grit sandpaper he was using. What grit should be used?
arminvanbuuren Posted May 27, 2008 Report Posted May 27, 2008 So I got my Noob sub from Andrew today, before ordering I inquired if it was the same sub as reviewed in this link by by-tor: http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showtopic=13184 Andrew said it was and for $79 bucks it was heck of a deal. Some members in the forum commented that the movement was not the same as watch in the review but I was okay with this. As long as the case, bracelet and everything else on the watch was the same. So how's the watch? Well the finish on the bracelet awesome. I compared the finish to my gen date just and the finish is identical to my eyes. No play on the bracelet, completely tight. The rep bracelet is a bit sharp around the edges but that can be taken care of. The sides of the bracelet are not polished. I'm not sure if that's the way they're supposed to be on the gen. If someone could comment that would be great. Now the bezel (not insert) on the watch doesn't look like the bezel reviewed in the link or like the bezel of a gen. My bezel looks more like the Invicta coin-edge bezel. It's not sloped down, instead it's some bezel edges then a straight down. With all that out of the way, there are a few things i need to do. 1. The bracelet squeaks a bit and it's not entirely smooth. I've heard that you using car wax and WD50 oil will make it better. What order should i do it in? And how long do i soak or leave the stuff on for? What kind of car wax should i use? 2. the edges are a bit sharp, what i can use to smooth them out without destroying the finish? 3. How easy is it to pop out the entire bezel assembly if i wanted to replace it? Any guides on doing this? 4. By-tor had a guide for sanding down the crown guards using sandpaper, but there was no mention of what grit sandpaper he was using. What grit should be used? can u post some pics?
looseends Posted May 27, 2008 Report Posted May 27, 2008 1. The bracelet squeaks a bit and it's not entirely smooth. I've heard that you using car wax and WD50 oil will make it better. What order should i do it in? And how long do i soak or leave the stuff on for? What kind of car wax should i use?I read up on this a bit, and I decided to use WD40. I saw suggestions about baby oil, but I hate the smell of it. And soaking the bracelet seemed unnecessary. I imagine auto wax would be hard to work in, and I'd think it would dry out as well. So I removed the bracelet, and simply sprayed WD40 between the links, and worked it in by rotating the links back and forth. It was pretty much soaked without having to stick it in a puddle of oil or anything. Wiped off the excess, again getting as much between the links as possible, all the while still rotating back and forth. This cleared up some "tightness" between the links, and the smell went away pretty quick, I didn't even notice. It even made it possible to get a stripped link screw out that wasn't causing a problem - it was holding - but knowing it was there bothered me. Oiled up it slipped right out, and I used an extra link in place of that whole link. I think there will be some good answers to your other questions by the experienced members. And don't give up on search, it's your friend.
rolexconfuse Posted May 27, 2008 Author Report Posted May 27, 2008 can u post some pics? Have to do it tonight, got the package at work..
rolexconfuse Posted May 27, 2008 Author Report Posted May 27, 2008 I read up on this a bit, and I decided to use WD40. I saw suggestions about baby oil, but I hate the smell of it. And soaking the bracelet seemed unnecessary. I imagine auto wax would be hard to work in, and I'd think it would dry out as well. So I removed the bracelet, and simply sprayed WD40 between the links, and worked it in by rotating the links back and forth. It was pretty much soaked without having to stick it in a puddle of oil or anything. Wiped off the excess, again getting as much between the links as possible, all the while still rotating back and forth. This cleared up some "tightness" between the links, and the smell went away pretty quick, I didn't even notice. It even made it possible to get a stripped link screw out that wasn't causing a problem - it was holding - but knowing it was there bothered me. Oiled up it slipped right out, and I used an extra link in place of that whole link. I think there will be some good answers to your other questions by the experienced members. And don't give up on search, it's your friend. After you sprayed it, did you rinse out the WD50? I can't imagine you wearing the bracelet with WD50 still clinging to the bracelet
looseends Posted May 27, 2008 Report Posted May 27, 2008 (edited) After you sprayed it, did you rinse out the WD50? I can't imagine you wearing the bracelet with WD50 still clinging to the bracelet You keep saying WD50, are we talking about the same thing? I didn't rinse it, just wiped it clean. Several passes with a microfiber cloth, and then again, several passes with a clean part of the cloth, being sure to get all the excess from between the links. There was no oil on it to the touch, I made sure of that. The important part is working the oil into the screws/links where the friction occurs (out of sight). If you're getting friction between links, i.e. the links butt up again each other, you may need some sanding there as well. Edited May 27, 2008 by looseends
rolexconfuse Posted May 27, 2008 Author Report Posted May 27, 2008 You keep saying WD50, are we talking about the same thing? I didn't rinse it, just wiped it clean. Several passes with a microfiber cloth, and then again, several passes with a clean part of the cloth, being sure to get all the excess from between the links. There was no oil on it to the touch, I made sure of that. The important part is working the oil into the screws/links where the friction occurs (out of sight). If you're getting friction between links, i.e. the links butt up again each other, you may need some sanding there as well. yeah i meant WD40, so all you do is just wipe it out after you spray it.
rolexconfuse Posted May 27, 2008 Author Report Posted May 27, 2008 here's 2 pictures i did with my camera phone, the quality is not that good
andreww Posted May 27, 2008 Report Posted May 27, 2008 To properly do the bracelet you should remove it and put it in some sort of shallow container. Submerse it in WD40 and let soak for at least an hour. Remove it and rinse and wash with soapy water. Rinse with water and re-attach to the watch.
rolexconfuse Posted May 27, 2008 Author Report Posted May 27, 2008 thanks Andrew, does anyone know what grit of sandpaper i should use in sanding the CG's so they look more correct?
llsteve80 Posted May 28, 2008 Report Posted May 28, 2008 Sorry, but you can't remove the bezel without ruining it. They are tight little buggers on the noob factory watches. Impossible
Crimson Vanguard Posted July 3, 2008 Report Posted July 3, 2008 I just did this guys... and I can say it did improve the "fluidity" of the bracelet slightly. My ss sub was already pretty good, so it wasnt a drastic improvement. Also, I used olive oil, about 12 hours.
alligoat Posted July 3, 2008 Report Posted July 3, 2008 thanks Andrew, does anyone know what grit of sandpaper i should use in sanding the CG's so they look more correct? Certainly 320 wet/dry, then 400, 600 and finally 1000 would work. You could even start with like a 200 grit wet/dry. B-T showed doing it with a very thin needle file along the insides. Gioarmani had a tutorial showing how to do it w/ sandpaper. Neither involved removing the crown as I recall, but masking it and the case tube can't hurt. You don't want the filings getting in there. I usually remove the movement and crown, tape the tube and then polish when I'm done filing and rinse and clean the case before I reassemble the watch.
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