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The legendary POrikaa: an insight look!


Rolexman

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As promised here are some technical shots of Narikaa's PO.

You need:

PICT0533-1.jpg

-Case back tool

-Putty

-Masking tape

-Grease

-Blower

-Thumbtack

-Fiberoptic cloth

-1 jeweler screw driver (not on the pic)

-Tweezer (not on the pic)

Remove the case back:

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Movement shot:

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Inside case back. Nice ;). . .

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Remove the rotor (1 screw)

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I removed some plastic 'hairs' from the movement spacer. If they would come loose later on they could cause some major problems.

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Greased the ball bearings (special ball bearing grease not on the pic) to silence the rotor.

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Clean the abundant grease with Rodico

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Remove the stem/ crown by pushing the stem release button with a thumbtack GENTLY (whilst in the winding position). Than grease the seal inside the crown (seal 1)

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Grease the seal in the tube (seal 2). It's kinda hard to see on the pic but it's the black thing inside the tube.

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Decase the movement by simply turning the watch case (movement facing down) and pry out the white movement spacer. The movement will drop out, BE CAREFULL! More info on decasing the movement can be found HERE.

As you can see the c-clip in the HEV is almost impossible to reach. I think with just the right tool it could be done but I don't have it. I could try to remove it but I would run the risk of getting it off but never getting it back on okay.

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As the HEV could be an entry point for water I do want to secure it. So I use some masking tape and cut out a hole.

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I smear some special 'bathroom' rubber based putty in it.

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I let it dry for 24h and clean it up.

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I used my dustblower to remove all the dust inside the case, my fiberoptic cloth to get the inside of the crystal nice and clean and reassembled the whole thing.

Voila, a water proof tested PO good for swimming and diving :)

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Hope this helps enjoying you POrikaa even more :lol:

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what movement is this in planet ocean by narikaa?

21j Asian DG2813 movement which I'm very keen on lately. Like the one in my SSD I managed to regulate the one in the POrikaa to +2 sec/ day. With a power reserve of +35h it's a great work horse. IMO no need to pay extra for a fake ETA. . .

Thanks for all the nice comments everybody. Appreciate it!

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21j Asian DG2813 movement which I'm very keen on lately. Like the one in my SSD I managed to regulate the one in the POrikaa to +2 sec/ day. With a power reserve of +35h it's a great work horse. IMO no need to pay extra for a fake ETA. . .

Thanks for all the nice comments everybody. Appreciate it!

Especially with the greasing of the rotor ball bearings... :good:

Great pictorial there, mate!

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21j Asian DG2813 movement which I'm very keen on lately. Like the one in my SSD I managed to regulate the one in the POrikaa to +2 sec/ day. With a power reserve of +35h it's a great work horse. IMO no need to pay extra for a fake ETA. . .

Thanks for all the nice comments everybody. Appreciate it!

First....thanks a million for this.

As a nOOb this was great, now I just need to do it ;)

Second, My POrikaa is +2 sec/day from arrival... Didn

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Many thanks for this thread! :)

It almost gives me the confidence to get stuck in and have a go myself, although a little knowledge is a dangerous thing... :unsure: lol

May I ask what grease you used for the rotor?

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Perfect tutorial for a noob like me.. :rolleyes:

Wonder if I actually dare to give it a shot.. :blink: Anyway first thing.. need to get the proper tools for it.. where did you get the caseback remover and which grease did you use? :help:

//Z

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May I ask what grease you used for the rotor?

Clear ball bearing grease available in every hardware store:

Example:

H386976.jpg

Rubber grease (for door rubbers) available in every car part store:

Example:

rubber_grease.jpg

where did you get the caseback remover

Case back remover came in a whole watch repair kit of Ebay.

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How watertight is the seal between the crystal & the watch body?.

Lazoon (UK)

Usually I check wether the crystal is properly seated (straight). If that's the case chance of water leaking through the crystal gasket is almost next to zero. Because the crystal is slightly domed and I don't have a crystal press I couldn't remove it. I do have a method of removing en repressing crystals but it only applies to flat crystals. When tapping the PO's crystal one can hear it is very thin so it could shatter under pressure.....

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok...excuse the n00bocity of what i'm about to ask, but...

The He valve on my POrikaa screws down tight (like the crown). Is a mod such as this really necessary since the valve screws down? I can understand doing this for diving purposes, but I would imagine it would be 'good enough' straight out of the box for showering/surface swims. :g:

Regardless...thanks for the great info! :thumbsupsmileyanim:

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The He valve on my POrikaa screws down tight (like the crown). Is a mod such as this really necessary since the valve screws down? I can understand doing this for diving purposes, but I would imagine it would be 'good enough' straight out of the box for showering/surface swims. :g:

How tight it screws down has nothing to do wether it's water proof or not. It depends on two main factors.

1 Design:

The crown and HEV must have the right dimensions. For example: if the tube is to short the crown won't screw down far enough and therefor the tube won't touch the rubber seal inside the crown.

2 Seal:

If there is no rubber seal but only metal on metal water will enter. It's therefore important the metal contact points of the cown and HEV are joined by a rubber.

This applies for all moist; rain, washing hands etc.

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