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It's never been easier to buy an amazing Rep out-of-the-box with just a browser and a PayPal account. The bad news is that it attracts a whole slew of Noobs who pop on the forum, ask "who has the best sub", purchase a rep from a trusted dealer like it was Amazon.com (no qc pics), flame the dealer when the date font is wrong, file a Paypal dispute, get the dealers PayPal account shut down, and leave the rest of us holding the bag. It's always been thus to some extent, but it seems worse now than before. I recently saw a post where a new member bought a dive watch rep from a trusted dealer, went swimming with it, was annoyed to find it wasn't waterproof, and was planning to bring it to Rolex Authorized Dealer for repair! That's an avoidable problem to be sure. Toadtorrent's pinned post "Hey Noob...or not so Noob...Read this Now!" is a fantastic primer on rep watch collecting basics and covers most of the frequently asked questions, but it's clear that many folks don't read it. The basic problem I think is that people get really excited when they find out that incredibly high quality rep watches can be purchased out of the box and they just want to buy "the best XYZ" and move on. They're just not going to read 10 pages of instructions. I was thinking about how best to address the issue and I started thinking about the 10 commandments. I'm not a religious person, nor do I want to discuss religion, but I think there is something to be said for distilling a 1000 page book into 10 basic rules. Everybody has time to read 10 basic rules! I thought it might be interesting to develop a list of just 10 simple rules that any noob can read, and avoid 80% of the problems that Noobs experience (or cause!). I'm still a Noob myself, and I'm far from qualified to create such a list but I thought I'd take a first stab at it. Here's my take on the Replica Watch Collecting 10 Commandments (actually, I have 11 that's I'm trying to pare down). What's missing? What are your Rep 10 Commandments? Never ask who has the best "Submariner, Planet Ocean, *ANYTHING*". If you have to ask, you haven't done enough research. Do not post a thread until you've read "http://www.rwgforum.net/forum/163-introductionrulessupport/ Do not post a question thread without first using the search function. Purchase watches from trusted dealers or accept the risks. Understand that buying a replica watch, even from trusted dealers, is not like buying a watch from Amazon. Understand how and why this true. Get quality control pictures and ask questions before buying a watch, not afterwards. Never file a PayPal dispute without first exhausting every conceivable alternative remedy. Understand why that's imperative. Don't assume that your dive watch rep is waterproof, or that the automatic movement doesn't need servicing out-of-the-box. Never wear your replica watch into an Authentic Dealer, or try to have it repaired by someone who isn't replica-friendly. Never use a member's real name on the forum without written consent. Keep your posts, avatars, and other contributions PG rated. The goal is to find the 10 basic rules that cover 80% of the problems Noobs experience or create. What are yours?

I think most folks know that after M inflicted me with the "Explorer Virus" I have become very fond of them. Once the price of suitable gen cases started getting unreasonable I looked around for rep cases that didn't look too bad and came up with the 2824 16200 case. This made a pretty decent looking mid-range Explorer and with the correct bezel and such made a reasonably believable copy. But, the lug shape bugged the dawg-$hit out of some folks bad enough to cause them to spend some quality "therapy" time with aforementioned case and various files and abrasive papers! Not my idea of a really good time... Enter blue. After some back-and-forth he sent me an AutoCad drawing file he worked up for the lug profile of a 1016 case. At the time I was really swamped and didn't have a chance to do anything to it and it sat on the back-burner for several weeks. After I caught a breather I kind of rushed a test and tore up a case but it showed me what I did wrong. Several months passed until I was finally able to make a few tweaks to the drawing and turn it into G-Code for my lathe and yesterday I decided to try my luck. I first re-profiled the tops of the lugs based on blue.'s drawing and cleaned up the burrs with a fine "sword" file. I then sanded and re-brushed the lug tops and turned to the lug holes. I usually drop the lug holes into the existing "dimples" on the lug insides but since I slimmed the lugs I decided I would try to relocate them to a more proper spot. I was pleased that the new location not only looked a helluva lot more correct but also the new holes didn't encroach on the existing dimples. I was afraid I would break into the edge of one of them and cause the bit to "wander" and make an ugly hole. Although the original dimples can be plainly seen once the end-pieces and bracelet are installed they should be hidden. I popped on a pair of wso990 555 end-pieces and they lined up with the newly relocated lug holes perfectly and I didn't have to do any grinding. After this I then lightly aged the case and pronounced it good enough. Enough said, here's a couple pics of the results...

Did a little trade today and picked up this 356. The accuracy to gen is very impressive. CG is nearly perfect down to the slightly off-center lever pin. I forgot to wipe down the crystal for pics, it's impressive both in clarity and bevel/edge finish. The dirty lume uncharged is a spot-on match too. You hardly see this watch posted anymore. More pics this weekend. In the meantime, I would like to see what strap combos 356 owners prefer... post away...

I've had a chance to take some close ups of the rehaut on my gen SubC. It's laser engraved in such a way that the depth will look different as it hits the light. At some angles, it appears that the letters are deeply etched in the middle of the fonts: However, at another angle, the center of the letters is in fact not hollow; but rather matte/flat which contrasts with the horizontal grains of the outer satin finish:

Brilliant, J! So happy that there is a significant progress after so many months The CNC lathe ensures accurate, symmetrical lug reshaping and leaves only work for fine surface finish to the builder/modder. Which is easier than having to reshape four lugs by hand, running the risk to screw up on four of them. Here is the prove that the resulting profile is gen spec ( this is a gen 1016 case from 1989 ):

Has anyone had any luck with these Black Friday coupon codes? With Perfect Clones I tried: GIVEMEADISCOUNTYOUDONTNEEDANOTHERPOSRCHEJOSHUA At Trusty Time I tried: 2005PRICESPLEASETHECHINESEYUANHASNTACTUALLYAPPRECIATEDTHATMUCH At PureTime I tried: ASIANMOVEMENTWATCHESATASIANMOVEMENTPRICESNOTSWISSETAPRICES No luck with any of them for me. Is it just me or have their sales not started yet?

Getting some wrist time today. TC v6 w/ a flat 4 insert and flat crystal.

Here is my TC And Tudor And the divers having a party Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The slide - rule is on... when the outside 60 arrow is lined up with the inside black mph arrow everything is lined up. I can do the multiplication calculations, this rep has just got a whole lot cooler now i have lots to learn :- SLIDE-RULE MULTIPLICATION DIVISION EXCHANGE RATES CALCULATING GROUND SPEED CALCULATING MILES PER MINUTE CALCULATING GASOLINE CONSUMPTION CALCULATING THE RATE OF CLIMB OR DESCENT CALCULATING THE DISTANCE OF CLIMB OR DESCENT NAUTICAL AND STATUTE MILE CONVERSION might need a pilots licence next

I'd suggest you PM SSTEEL and ask him, he is one of the very best. AJ

Aaannd Perry563 draws first blood! I say get the ZF. Honestly, you can't go wrong with either. Neither is perfect, but they're both very good reps. Pick one and show it some love. With the passage of time, yours will look like no other.