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I like to keep my favorite inserts secured to bezels. I'd rather swap out the bezel than risk wearing out the insert edges when I want to have a different look on my subs. Top left is a long 5. Too right is a regular (MKIII) fat font. Bottom right is a "kissing 40" version of a MKIII (some incorrectly call it a MKI) ghost. Bottom right is a very rare version of a MKIII where the cliches wore out so much that even the 50 is kissing. I should probably not leave out my favorite. A kissing 50 Long 5: One day I will find a nice red triangle insert for the big crown (it will have to be a lucky GoodWill find). Also, missing is a "skinny 40" which would round out the collection nicely.

Can you narrow it down a bit and indicate what you mean by 'vintage'? First of all, is it a Moonwatch, as opposed to any of the other variants MKii, MKiii, MKiv etc? Assuming it's a Moonwatch... 1950s / 60s / 70s etc. ? 2915, 2998, 105.012, 145.012, 145.022, 3750.50 etc? Pre Professional / Pre-Moon / Moon? Movement 321 / 861 / 1861? Whichever period you are aiming for you need to ensure that everything is correct. Given that virtually all the bits are interchangeable the biggest single issue is to make sure that you don't end up buying a franken. There's a wealth of new, service replacement parts available (crowns, pushers, dials, hands, bezels, casebacks etc) and many older watches will have had many parts replaced as service items. This will have a major impact on the value of the older pieces and you should be vary of anything that looks suspiciously fresh. At the very least make sure that the dial and bezel are correct for the model & year. If not walk away unless it is cheap and you're happy to leave it alone. Sourcing a 'stepped edge' or older dial, or, a 'dot-over-90' bezel will be difficult, frustrating and hugely expensive. Also remember that the Omega 321 / 861 movement is a derivative of the Lemania movement so check that you are actually getting an Omega. Bracelets are another minefield and can be significantly costly in themselves - check the cost of No.6 endlinks for example. Bottom line is that, even with a plethora of service replacement parts it is still a genuine Omega, but the price should reflect the reality and be realistic. An excellent reference is the recent Rossier & Marquie book 'Moonwatch Only', although it is costly it's a great read and contains all the guidance you will ever need. Over the years I have owned at least 30 older Moonwatches, from a 1962 2998-6 through to the late 70s. For a start I would suggest that you look for a early '70s, stepped dial 145.022. This is the last dial that truly feels vintage and is the easiest way into a 'vintage' Speedy. Many will still have the '69 pre-Moon caseback, which carried on at least until 1971. Good luck and if you post pics of any potential purchase send me a PM to alert me if you would like me to comment.

I finished my Rolex 6350 build last night. This one is shockingly hard for which to source parts. Kudos to Junebug for getting his done so spot on. This is built around a JMB 1016 v2 case for a 2824. JMB did a great job aging and reshaping eberything for me including the caseback. Custom engraving between the lugs. I wanted to try something a little different with this one though. Common practice is to drop a 2824 into the case, but an Explorer from the 50s wouldn't have a high beat movement. Junebug used a Fesla movement in his. I wanted something different from a 2824 Click the link for a video and place your bets. http://vid1296.photobucket.com/albums/ag4/jelliottz/20160123_022657_zpsptvpdgx1.mp4 No... I didn't go gen. I did use a movement which I don't think anyone else has used on a vintage Rolex build. I tapped the Seiko 7s26 for power plant duties. It's a low beat movement. It doesn't hack. It has nearly identical had sizes to an ETA (H: 1.5, M: .9, S: .21), and the hands advance the same as the gen movement. The only question was making it fit. And fit perfect it did. Stem is spot on for alignment. Plenty of clearance on the rotor. The movement is 12ligne, and with the built in plastic spacer, it snapped right in place and doesn't budge. I had to slightly reduce the second hand, but that was easy. I wanted the cathedral minute hand that you see on so many of the watches. I found a seller on ebay who had them in 12mm length. I with it was 12.5, but I'm still happy. Here's the full build list JMB 1016 v2 case: aged and custom engraving by JMB, addition ending aging by me Refinished 6350 dial from Tonnywatches Seiko 7s26 low beat movement Hour hand: long mercedes hand from Ofrei Minute hand: ebay Second hand: ? Came from parts box Rep 6mm crown: gen 6mm on order I'll be adding the gen 6mm crown and a gen jubilee bracelet. I know a rivet oyster would be more correct, but I've always loved the look of jubilee on Explorer. I may also switch to a big ball seconds hand. Thanks for looking. Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Just chiming in again. I took apart my rose gold/white dial model last night to fix some factory dust issues and to grease the case seal. In particular, the dial had some dust particles and 'fibers' inside that cast shadows on the dial. These particles were very noticeable under direct sunlight. The crystal and case inside was also a bit dirty. These photos were very helpful in taking everything apart for the cleaning and reassembly. Now my watch is clean and the rubber case seal is greased. I'll note taking the rotor off is the easy part. Putting the screw, jewel and jewel topper back in place is fun little challenge for steady hands and a loupe. Be patient. The keyless works is very easy as well. The crown and stem come out nice and easy after depressing the clutch release button. Thank you, again, for taking the time to detail your approach.

I stopped posting yesterday before the warnings started flying in

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Guys, I bought one from Sead.