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I mostly agree with slay. I have tried Bergeon dial feet on multiple dials, with proper surface prep & various adhesives/epoxies/cements & they always fall off. No so with good dial dots. In some cases, you may have to stack 2 or 3 dots on top of each other for proper spacing, but the only real downside to dial dots is that they must be positioned so they do not interfere with components & the adhesive can be a bit of a pain to remove during overhauls.

Repost from another member. We can relax

Dude.... Just enjoy it.

I could if you guys would like me to, an if mister A. says "please". How many cases (frecuency) in one year have we had with the average amount of how much??? I'ts doable if we all get in to it. @Sogeha you should come and work in insurance with me by the way

Help_with_stem_release_on_this_A32J_movement__-_Watch_Repair___Upgrade_-_RWG_-_The_original by Micky Aldridge, on Flickr

Forget glue-on dial feet. Unless you have a feet-soldering machine, the right size dial feet and know what you're doing, get dial dots. Dial dots are fantastic, anyone who says they aren't a worthy replacement clearly has never used them (or got cheap crap from China). 3 or 4 dial dots will secure any dial sufficiently - no wiggling. Dial feet come in various lengths and widths, you need to find the right ones for your movement, shorten them, position them correctly (which is a huge pain in the ass unless you have a template), abrade the area on the dial where you want to glue them etc. etc. If the feet are just slightly off position, the dial won't be centered. You don't need to do any of that shit with dial dots. Trust me, get dial dots!

Thanks J! I appreciate your support over the process it's been a productive few months Sogeha, I will pass along the info. Phil and Bart, this is only a prototype dial, but it is on brass. I believe I won't have difficulty making the reverse relief thinner. That said, I actually purposely made it a little thick; I prefer how these "valleys" play with the light. The dial looks amazing in sunlight.

Hmm I rather stop commenting, as it seems like I am touting. Maybe PM me as I don't wanna annoy the mods. Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk

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Wearing my Bart today.

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hi, your right, but not correct! up to 5atm~5 m deep rate means: no water at all! 5atm up to 10 atm ~ 10m means: you can Shower with it! 10atm up to 50 atm ~ 50m means: you can swim with it! 50atm up to 100atm ~ 100m means: you can dive up to 5m deep, not more!!! 150atm up to 300 atm - 300m means: you can dive up to 25m deep! there is s big missunderstanding in the depthrates - laboratory conditions are never the same than scubadiving in open water! trust my, i'am a diver myselfe! for a propper divers watch, you need at least 300m up to 1000m...[emoji1303] Gesendet von iPhone mit Tapatalk

People like me, who only dive for lobster up to 35 feet. Over 60 feet I agree it's better to use good gauges and computers.

Who in their right mind would dive without a computer these days?

I am not defending the Nalgene bottles at all!! I also have my doubts as to whether they are another scam or can function without encroaching the design limitations - I couldn't say!!! The point I was trying to make is exactly like gasebah implied that nothing is 100 % safeproof. It may work today but fail tomorrow! When I reflect on those acrylic crystals that were once used on most divers watches, regardless of how well they were sealed, I often wondered how they could really do their job, when considering that plastic expands and contracts at a different rate to metal and worst still with how easy they were to break with little misalignment pressure. It is always safer to stick with the genuine old pressure testers in contrast to these new fads today

New to the forums.. after reading this thread - Im liking the feel!

.......... but was he correct? lol