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I agree. I think that whatever happened in the past, is something we all can take reference from, but I do think that @SSTEELis consciously trying to put in effort to improve the experience of members who use him for service and repairs. He may have made mistakes before, but so have every single one of us. The important thing is that he seems to be learning to be better and that is worth more to us (and the members he will deal with) than his past weaknesses. SSteel is an asset to the community, knowledge and skills wise. No mistake about that. The only thing I picked on was his sense of responsibility after the watch service/repair was completed, and I think that he understands well, and is working on it. Let's give him the chance to do so. If we keep condemning someone, I doubt that it can instill the desired values and behavior or response from him. I stand by what I said about SSTeel then, and I stand by what I am saying about him now. Let us not make someone pay for the same mistake over and over, unless he chooses to make it over and over.

Looks great this Tudor. Nice strap too. Bought it like this or some of your own magic?? Handsome trio that you have there

Tell them to look at the Etachron assembly and find a clone that replicates this.

Hey Chris, to tighten security concerns, I had to remove both our names from your quote, as you can see. Please do not do it again, next infraction will earn a warning and a chance to win an all-expenses trip to the Bahamas, with or without the proverbial Hawaiian shirt and the obligatory cocktail in hand. You have been duly warned Chris. Al

"What type of material are datewheels made of?" The older dw (cal 15xx) were made out of brass.

"What about the Yuki case that you have sold? I have read that the newest case isn’t like the old one (problem with glued tube if I remember correctly)." The 1680 case was traded away in March or April 2011 not long after I got it and iirc the first case that 'Stilty' got had a problem...glued case tube maybe? Do not remember. The Yuki 1680 case I got from 'Stilty' was Ok. Far as I know the glued case tubes were a long time ago and everything Yuki sells now is just fine. My Yuki 5512 and 5513 case tube threads look good from inside the case with no sign of glue. BTW...all of my MBK cases have the O ring groove in the top of the case for a gasket under the lower (crystal retaining) bezel, my Yuki cases do not. This makes little difference but I did put O ring gaskets in the MBK cases that I used. Early genuine cases did not have the groove for the extra gasket. Something else...my MBK cases are not machined to oem specs where the gasket goes between the case tube and case. The gasket seat in the case is too small to accept an oem gasket. I used a smaller gasket and bought a cutter bit to cut the gasket seat but never did. Do not know what the Yuki cases have as I have not removed the case tubes.

One of the responsibilities of being a senior member, is to help the newbies. Sometimes it's hard to suggest to them to look it up in manner that sounds polite. We were all newbies at one time. But, there is no substitute for manners, be it a long time member, or a newbie. "can't we all, just get along?" lol Jack Nicholison in war of the worlds, I think.

Thanks brother. In my line of work, it's not always in my best interest to show up wearing a Rolex / IWC / Panerai on my wrist... I love these because if/when asked, I can pull the "it started life as an $80 Invicta" and anyone with basic mechanical experience and a little patience can design and build their own semi-custom version. Also, getting comfortable with these makes me far less scared to work on the $900+ Yuki 9411 case/dial that I have on my bench currently.

6204 Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A520F met Tapatalk

Gen 14270

The diver reps, both stainless steel and forged carbon, and even the ceramic, have been touted as the best out of the box AP reps in the hobby. And yes, that is true if you look at the number of flaws in the ROO chronograph series. But yet, closely replicated as they are, flaws still exist in the diver reps. For the sake of brevity, let us run through the list of flaws Movement: The previous generation of reps uses the A2824 movement, which beats at 28800bph, but is better and more reliable than the current generation of miyota powered replicas. Miyotas can be noisy when the watch is shaken, and cheap looking/sounding. However they are fairly reliable too, and easily replaced. The gen uses a low beat 21600bph caliber 3120 AP movement. The beat difference is hardly noticeable on the wrist between 28800bph and 21600bph unless you have them side and side, and scrutinize closely. The beat of the rep movement can be modded to 21600bph as well. Dial The gen diver dial is glossy and more intricate in details, and the rep is somewhat glossed over, but not to the same extent. The difference is hardly noticeable again, but the rep dial can be gloss-finished by hand to look like the gen. Of course, dial print is sharper on the genuine diver, but not by much compared with the V7 diver. Inner dive bezel For the stainless steel, the lume construction for the numbers are significantly different, and this is a noticeable difference once pointed out to someone. For the FC, the numbers on the inner bezel are closer to genuine. Hands There is a slight difference between the shine and finish of the genuine hands vs the replica ones. But not enough to warrant any modification. Datewheel The genuine watch (before the i series) uses a serif font which the Noob (first v4 batch and earlier) replicates well. The font is nonetheless slightly smaller than the gen one. This can be fixed by installing an aftermarket datewheel. Case construction No significant difference between gen and rep here for the recent models. Any perceivable difference would not be something you can spot on the wrist. The rep FC case can be polished and buffed a little to look better, but not necessarily closer to gen. The FC material is rather organic, and each case looks different from the rest. I have seen a variety of finishes for the genuine FC cases. The glossed up pictures on the internet makes us all paranoid at times, but if you have a chance to take a look at FC case finishing on the genuine, you will be surprised at how flat (little or no marbling) some will look. Bezel screws It is a myth that bezel screws on the genuine diver are always sunken and aligned. This is not true at all, I have seen genuine divers that look otherwise. The bezel screws on the replica can be carefully aligned, polished and sunken evenly for aesthetic purposes. Crystal Bear in mind, that the gen comes with a single AR crystal. Applying double AR on a replica does enhance the look of the dial, but does not make it more accurate looking. This is a personal choice for the owner, and nothing right or wrong about it. Straps The rep rubber straps are decent, but with the host of aftermarket straps available, many choices are available at the owner's disposal. So when one mentions "best diver that money can buy", it is subjective to each owner with regards to what "best" means. Here is a fully modded diver. I’ve converted it from a miyota movement to an ETA low beat one and retained the hands. Notice the dial finish, the case finish and the datewheel. I consider this a reasonable rendition of the stainless steel diver without going franken or gen. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gray Nato works with the warm weather:

Blue 009