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You’re more than welcome! As for the help, you will want to read all that other members, much more informed than yours truly, have been writing on the topic in this forum. You will find a whole lot of insight and knowledge. As I have suggested elsewhere you could use the search function and read all that LHOOQ, BLUE and ROLOJACK shared on their quest for the perfect 1016. You should also refer to the awesome JMB, a true Southern Gentleman and all-around great guy, upon which crafts most of the 101x builds around the galaxy are based (but please act swiftly because he’s been announcing his imminent retirement for the last 10 years [emoji6]). Anything else, just ask.

The only out of the ordinary AK I have is a 34mm 5501 tutone made III 62 (cal 1530) with a poorly refinished dial. I got a Yuki explorer dial with goldtone letters and hand set for it but nave not put it together yet. Bought the Yuki dial because a genuine AK dial with gold markers is expensive and hard to find in today's market. Can not recall seeing a 5504 for sale at watch shows. Saw quite a few 1018 models, some had been converted to look like a 1016.

This is a meaningful gentlemen's debate @altesporsche @horologist The community benefits from both your knowledge and points of views. A forum is a platform for a discussion, and this is a very in-depth and matured discussion. Thank you guys. You have both proven to be very knowledgeable in your own fields and there is much we can learn from both your posts.

(...) You may ask who would put their timepiece in urine? One can be surprised what gets onto your wrist... I recall helping my lady change our child's nappy some years ago and before we had just finished, a big splash of pee squirted us everywhere. I don't even remember if I was wearing a watch or not as this was long before these topics were even a thought. Now you got me worried as I may not have rinsed my non waterproof Seiko dress watch So it is not such a bizarre contemplation!! LOL!

"A picture tells 1000 words or perhaps even more!" I have seen a lot of genuine rlx cases like this and owned a few in worse condition although most were 316. The worst were 16000 series DJ with cal 3035. Also seen many rotted 1600 DJ and 4 digit submariner cases and have a movement/dial rescued from a rotted out 1680 that is now residing in a DW case. No need to shed crocodile tears... Make your rolex last 5 years! Wash it each and every day... With Enviro-Green Rot-Not Spray!

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I wealth of information around here guys we have some very highly educated members horologist and altesporsche being two of them I will not go into the letters after their names . Wise in the ways of the rep world am I but I'm out of my league on this stuff..................

hmm im sorry but 904L is a an ISO standard and the variation in quality is nearly non existent. it is the composition that makes this a 904 alloy. it is highly resistant to corrosion hence why it was made. I use it in highly acidic environments in oil production. it was designed to be used with very strong acids. The 904 on reps has been tested and does fall into the specs of being called a 904L alloy, but people seem to think that it is a super alloy and it doesn't scratch etc.. its not its actually nearly identical to 316L but has different corrosion properties. People get all bent saying "its brighter" etc and that's horseshit. its not. the whiteness or brightness in the metal has to do with how it is brushed and catches light. my recent noob Daytona is 316 and it looks exactly the same as all of my gen Rolexes. Id like to know where you got your information on 904L because its very incorrect. if what they are usisng is actually 904L then like I said it will have the same scratch and dent resistance as 316 but it will be highly corrosion resistant to acids from your skin and just about anything you will throw at it.. 904L on a watch is mearly a marketing thing as 316L is perfect for watch material and like will outlast you. The reason rolex changed was to solve the pitting issues they had in the caseback around the seal area you seen in a lot of old subs that were worn in salt water and not rinsed off, over time this will pit 316L but a very long time. most of Rolexes reason was because it was exotic, hard to work with and no one else was using it.

So I like to stop in to Rolex stores sporting my reps, just to test the waters. Last week the AD said, “What do you have on there?” I explain it’s a 1675 - he’s impressed. But it isn’t until I take it off and lay it on the counter to try on a Milgauss that he can’t stop glancing/eyeing it. Eventually he says to me, “I wonder if that’s the original bezel.” So with that, I dug into researching and reworking my bezel. A few things I’ve noticed: - The insert sits proud of the bezel. You should be able to see some of the side edge - There is only a thin edge of grooves that are oriented slightly upwards - From the grooves to the retaining ring, the bezel sharply cuts back in - The bezel should appear thin and flat I won’t say this is the rule but simply what I’ve noticed after studying a number of macros on VRF. So I took to my WSO bezel made three distinct cuts: - I machined the top down at 10 degrees until enough insert showed to make it obvious it was proud of the bezel - I machined the outer edge at 10 degrees, sloping upwards so it was not perpendicular to the case - I machined the bottom pretty aggressively at 45 degrees to give it a strong under cut and thin things out I think the result is rather nice and a vast improvement on the previous iterations of the bezel. Oh, and this post is a good excuse to point out the gen 6251 folded link jubilee bracelet. Really enjoy this bracelet over the Cartel jubilee I previously had on there. Thanks for looking! https://i.imgur.com/iszIFw0.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ncDHquC.jpg https://i.imgur.com/02GhOfC.jpg

A few photos of my old buddy with the caved in 702. Don't ask.

Here is a pic of the Red. (Entirely high end rep parts) As you can see it needs a gen 702 also. If you run into someone who has a few let me know.

Here are are few more pics. Again, gen pics first followed by pics of my rep. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Hi guys. I'm just a newbie who just wrote some newbic questions for a few times. But those stupid questions are answered by friendly experts of this forum and thanks to that, I could complete my 1016 build. It was just sudden that I just fall in love with 1016 although I didn't even know if there is a watch like that before I enter this forum. I took a look at 1016 pics around this forum and google, I wanted to have both leather and folded 7836 bracelet. My 1016 build spec is as follows. Case - JMB Crown - Rep provided with JMB case set Crystal - provided with JMB case set Dial - Yuki Hands - Yuki Movement - Clone 2824(Seagull) Bracelet - Josh JMB was communicative and he is the one who answered my noob question for the most of the time. I appreciate that Justin. PM him if you want to inquire any good quality case for datejust or exlporer. -JMB : http://www.rwgforum.net/user/24124-jmb/ I'm not sure Yuki's dial and hands are correct enough but I can guarantee that they are well made with sharp&vivid printings. Lume is not bad but not superb neither. I'm saying maybe because I compared my 1016 to seiko divers which has super hyper bright lume -Yuki : www.yukiwatch.com Seagull 2824 clone movement has very beautiful decorations which is always good to have. I've heard they are reliable if I give it a good service regulary as most of other eta clone movement. -An Ebay seller : http://www.ebay.com/itm/321467374718?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Bracelet from josh has good quality and I have some good news for you guys which is not the happiest news for me. I bought the bracelet from josh and I proceeded my purchasing of Aussy spring bars and WSO 580 endlinks because I've heard they fits well with jmb case. Moreover, I heard that endlink of josh's bracelet doesnt fit well with jmb case. So I odered bracelet from josh and also ordered wso580 endlinks and aussie spring bars. However, Josh's bracelet came to me earlier(actually I didn't even received spring bars and 580 endlinks yet. I'm in South Korea which is close to hongkong) and I found that they have really good fitting with jmb enhanced case. It fits without any modification and I just cannot find any unbalanced point. it just fits good. -Josh : www.pf-818.com -WSO : http://www.ebay.com/itm/171022393380?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT -Aussie spring bars : http://www.ebay.com/itm/351011434208?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I posted links of each parts for future-coming noobs like me as they would be helpful. now, let me show you my 1016. Photos will tell thounds of words.

If I was putting a '1016' together with an ETA movement, I would go with a JMB case. If I was putting a '1016' together with a genuine rolex 1560/70 I would go with a rolex 162xx case with lug holes drilled to spec. Cutting the lug tops down is an option but an expensive and/or time consuming option so I let it go. The 1570 will drop right in a 162xx case using a genspec dial. A genuine 160xx case is made for a thicker movement (3035) and is Ok for an ETA but is not a precise fit for a 1570. Genuine 160x cases are Ok but they are getting expensive and many are rough and/or badly corroded. The 160xx cases are closer in profile than the 162xx cases but as I said, a 1570 is not a good fit in a 160xx case. I have a '1016' made using a 162xx case and an ETA 2846. It had a 1570 in it at first and I removed the 1570, cut the dial feet off, and installed the same dial using a 'Stilty' spacer and ST hands. It was a drop in fit. I used a GS 22 crystal and a ST smooth sapphire bezel machined to fit the 22 crystal along with an oem 6mm crown. Here is approximately what the 162xx project cost with the ETA: 162xx case without bezel...$150 I've had the case a long time and they might be a little bit more $$ now. dial...$110 hands...$15 crystal...$12 bezel...$15 used genuine crown...$25 ETA 2846...$70 Stilty spacer...$25 hollow link bracelet and hoods...$75 gaskets, springbars etc...$15 total...$512 If labor to c/o movement, machine bezel, drill lug holes, and put it all together were added it would probably be over $600. A rolex 1570 would add another $700 to $1000. The same ETA powered watch with a JMB case would cost about the same, be just as good, and look closer to genuine.

Hmmm, I think I need to revisit my pricing model...