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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/12/2018 in all areas

  1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2 points
  2. . [emoji832] Milgauss 1019 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  3. "She has a few that you can pick from that are pretty sad looking." I too have noticed some of the higher priced dial offerings from the so called 'Premier Dealers" are not too hot. "When I asked about a nicer (dial) there was a 500 min $24.95 Per." Probably the same dials with better QC. My guess is the 'Premier Dealers' and dial makers are all in cahoots and the dial makers sell to them almost exclusively. "I just don’t think there’s magic to the guys that have the market cornered." I have a friend in the printing business and he figured it would cost $3000 to $5000 to get started in the dial printing business (dials without applied markers), including 2 or 3 cliché plates but not counting the dial blanks. He also said the same thing I did...applying the lume is the ONE thing that requires special training and/or practice. His estimate was for a high quality manually operated precision pad printer setup...not a low priced unit from eBay. Not counting the cost of the pad printer, each dial would probably cost $20 to $40 to make if you apply your own lume. If the dials are good enough to sell for $150 each...there is $$ to be made after paying for the printer. If a dial has two or more colors of letters/markers it means each dial will have to be printed 2 or 3 times so a high precision pad printer is required. You will also need an air brush and compressor to paint the dial blanks plus paint, thinner, print ink, and lume material. If you want 'Singer' Beyeler' etc stamped on the dial blanks, it will require a custom made stamp of some sort. A dedicated hobbyist could master the pad printing 'art' in a few months...if they were serious about it and have good eye to hand coordination and dexterity.
    1 point
  4. Verstuurd vanaf mijn RNE-L21 met Tapatalk
    1 point
  5. Outstanding job! "But there are several operations to transform it like that: shaving of the rear side, cutting of the groove and shaping of the case back seat." For anyone needing to tell at a glance if a 1016 case is genuine (or a very good copy), look for the slight groove around the case where the case back seats as noted by Rolojack. Since it is hard to duplicate, not many replicas or Frankensteins will have it. No guarantees though. Here is a picture showing the groove in a 1960 model along with the '4th grader' lettering on the case band, original brass reversers, and butterfly rotor weight: https://www.hqmilton.com/timepieces/j0ngylog/1960-rolex-explorer-1-1016-3748 No telling how much someone paid for this watch but a 1016 of this year model and in the same condition would have been around $1000/$1500 25 years ago. Now they are $10k to $20k! Imho this is a good reason to stick one together with a JMB etc case and Eta for an everyday watch. Another reason...you see dozens of 'bezel watches' (submariners) here and there but almost never a 1016. What's the down side? They look like Air Kings. "The 1560 mvmt is a pleasant surprise!! Yes it is. I have most of the parts to put one together but can not find a suitable case. Thought about having a genuine 162xx case modified and re-lettered but do not have the right connections. Have a couple 162xx cases with lug holes and since they were made for a 3135, a no date 1560/70 will fit right in one. The dial seat is the right size for a 1016 dial and the groove for the case back gasket is cut in the case like a 1016. Also have a couple nos tritium dials and hand sets plus crowns, crystals etc. The case would need the lug tops (aka 'shoulders') thinned down, the groove cut around the back of the case like 1016 cases, a bezel cut for a 25-22 crystal, and new numbers/letters. Finding a properly stamped case back would also be a problem. Another catch...my 1570 no hack movement has the letter 'D' at the beginning of the serial number and the 'D' means it was originally a Date movement. I've had the parts for 20+ years, They were just gathered up as 'parts' and not intended for a '1016' project but now the 1016 is Hot. Should have bought a 1016 back then. ...and a 6263 or two. Passed on a 6263 all apart but complete for $1600 waaay back.
    1 point
  6. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
  7. This [emoji1305] [emoji632]
    1 point
  8. 5510 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1 point
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