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Hey I found a folder in my hard drive that has some classic replica pictures that I've taken back in the day. First there was this "ceramic" GMT that came out. It was pretty damn good rep. As a watch it's boring as hell though. Third picture it's next to my gen 16710. Fourth picture has a NOKIA phone. The phones were a bit different back in those days too. Cheers. I'll post more later.

wow slay - great stuff arrived and really looking good[emoji1360] many thanks!

Colder weather back on leather [emoji6][emoji106] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks guys just being here is therapeutic, my wife says that all the money in the world won't make her as happy as our family is so I just have to focus on that. Ken

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1675 on nato strap

Looks Good. A lot of first class parts. I started one of these projects a few years ago, 5 or 7? I've mentioned it a few times. I stopped buying parts at around $3000 and it would have been a LOT more but I got a good deal in a movement and Phong case from a member. Looking back, I guess I did pretty good on the prices. My two dials are not too hot but one or the other will have to do. The hands look Ok but they are aftmkt of some sort (forgot the source). Where I hit The Snag was finding GMT parts, a few were missing. Far as I know I have them all now and hope to finish it this winter. What makes me feel bad (and dumb) is back when these watches and parts were affordable...I was buying tutone QS DJs. You do not see many wearing a TTDJ now. A TT quartz Seiko/Citizen maybe.

I’m guessing you have been asked not to share the photos again from the statement above? If this is supposed to be a guide then you are hardly guiding people in the correct procedure of how a transaction should be done. Sent from me

I remember the big to do over this years ago on the Rolex GMT, can not recall one had correct stack other did not but other tells? Or was it a mod that corrected the stack , I do remember there were correct stack ones about.

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Yes gen on left. I might have to pick one up. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

1655

@Faster897 Don't be discouraged by the lack of response to your helpful attempt at this guide. It is appreciated a lot more than you know. Most people here cruise around checking out all the new stuff, and don't take the time to comment. That doesn't mean it's not helpful buddy. Remember these are fakes. They're cheap and mass produced but oh so close to the real thing. If you find something you love and it has a cosmetic flaw, there are lots of ways to deal with it. Get another dial? Or send it out to one of our modders and have them relume it the right way. I've done that several times and the artists we have walking the halls of RWG can just about do magic. Stick around! Be an active presence here! Stir up activity and post stuff... set that example to prod other people to do it too. Sharing knowledge is why we're here.

That watch was something else to do !!! Imagine: it started as a 1680 case ! Yes, the only cartel case correct for a 2824 movement I could find was a PT 1680. It was intensively modified as you can see. Trimmed from the top down to appear super slim. Bezel and dial are from Vietnam... CWP T19 super dome. TC 16610 hands aged to match the dial. Caseback was the 1680 caseback totally modified. Inside runs a swiss made 2824. Voilà !!! Something else really, and lots of character on the wrist. Ah, and of course engravings by Neckyzips. Beautiful as usual.

Hi everyone, I just went through tapping a Silix 6538 case to accept Athaya's 8mm Brevet crown. The cases needed to be drilled first and then needed to be tapped to accept the crown. Hope some of you find this useful Tools & Parts: - Silix 5510/6538 case - Rat tail file - Table Vise - Cordless Drill (>7.8volt) - Lubricant for metal cutting - Tap Wrench - 3.5mm Cobalt Drill Bit - M4x0.35mm Tap First step is to remove the existing tube (look how tiny that Silix tube looks!). I used a rat tail file to grip the inner tube. Once you've got a good grip, simply unscrew counter-clockwise. Voila! Next, you secure the case in the table vise. Lube the hole where the tube was and use the 3.5mm Cobalt drill bit with your cordless drill. I used my 7.8v first, but wasn't as effective so I used my 20v. Had to be patient but wasn't difficult at all. Drill all the way through. Be sure to clean off any burrs. You can use that same rat tail file from earlier. Now you need to put that M4 tap onto the tap wrench. Make sure you get the 0.35mm pitch! 0.7mm are more common, but they won't work! I've purchased mine from Merlintools on Ebay for $12 per. Get a couple while you're at it. I couldn't photograph since both my hands were occupied, but once the tap bites onto the case you do a 1 turn clock-wise and then 1/2 turn counter clock-wise. By going counter clock-wise you're removing the excess steel. Athaya tubes are pretty long so I went all the way through the case. Now you should be able to hand screw that new tube in most of the way. Towards the end I used that rat tail file again to tighten all the way down. NOTE: if you have a choice, use the triangular file. Cone shaped are very difficult to remove from the tube because it bites more area on the tube. And there we go BONUS: So we know 3.5mm Cobalt and an M4x0.35mm tap is needed for the 8mm Brevet Athaya crown and tube. For Rolex Explorer 1016s to accept the 6mm gen crown and tube, you'll need to drill out the case using 0.110" or #35 first and use the M3x0.35mm tap. If you aren't up for it, jmb is your go to TC 16610 to gen tube seems to have the same diameter so drilling doesn't seem necessary. It would use the same tap as the 1016, M3x0.35mm. See here: https://www.replica-watch.info/vb/sh...ll-this-myself Hope this was useful! Good luck!