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Just dusted this off from storage.

These pic should illegal, blatant watch porn! My lord that's a beauty.....................

94010 today

1680 today

This is a worthy endeavour but be prepared to pay 2 or 3 times what you anticipated. I built a couple based on Silix etc oversized cases and they were just .... wrong. The 6536 Small Crown is tiny on the wrist and thinner than you can imagine. The 6538 uses roughly the same dimensions but it's thicker. It's very hard to get the right relative size to the pieces. Look at mine and Bart's ... the bezel has to extend over the edge of the case just the slightest amount on the 9:00 side and the 3:00 side is tougher. The big crown has to clear the bezel by just a smidgen and it has to seat next to the case. I wound up experimenting with countersinking my gen 702 tube into the case to get just the right clearances. The bezel can't be too thick top to bottom and it needs the slightest gap underside between the case and bezel ... they're not supposed to rub. The lugs begin the curve of the top surface at the flat ring beneath the bezel, and are already curving down and away as they appear beneath the coin edge. Most cases extend the flat surface out too far before they begin the curve. The sides are not vertical, so you have to make sure the tube hole is drilled parallel to the deck, not perpendicular to the side. Then there's the much coveted "canoe" shape to the lugs as their tips extend downward. Phong and MQ do this, but you have to be relentless with MQ so he knows that you know he's willing to send you crap, and push him into sending the good stuff. He'll complain ... who cares? Be politely pushy and do not take no for an answer. As for the crystal, a gen T-17 will cost more than a cheap car, and it's really the only correct part. Watch out for aftermarket pieces sold in "genuine wax envelopes", those are easy to fake too. When you're done you'll have an icon and you'll be astounded how small it is. You'll forget you're wearing it, which is exactly how these are supposed to be. Remember they are tools, nothing more. A commercial diver straps on his watch (or they used to!) as part of his rig... it's just a tool. The only care you give it when you're at work is once in awhile you remember not to smash it as you're moving something heavy. I have over 1,000 hours as a commercial diver and watches are only in the way, the divemaster is in charge anyway. But it's a good backup. So 6538 or 5510 or 1665, it's a tool to be cared for by keeping it clean, tested and regulated. It will show signs of much use, and much care, and keep great time. My 1665 has new seals and the band is stretched beyond belief. That's about perfect. Good luck on this adventure! Make sure you get a GOOD dial and case, and the rest you can improve over time as funds allow. It's gonna be expensive.

This is not much help but I have a Phong 1655 case from 6 or 7 years back that has scratches above the groove where the casing screws go. It had a 1575GMT movement before I got it so maybe the previous owner had trouble fitting the GMT movement in the case. The movement I have for it is not together so I can not try it in the case. The movement is held tight in genuine 1655 cases (and hopefully 'oem spec' cases) by two flanged 'casing screws' that fit in the groove around the inside of the case. The movement is held tight in the case by backing the screws out against the upper (case back) side of the groove rather than tightening them. If you tighten the screws, they just bottom out against the movement plate and the movement flops around when the crown is not screwed down. There is a notch in the groove on most cases across from the case tube where one casing screw will drop down into the groove. At the same time the opposite screw will drop down on the case tube side where there is a small cutout at the case tube. After putting the movement in the case, turn the movement to line the stem up, install the stem, screw the crown down to center the stem in the case tube, and 'loosen' the casing screws to tighten the movement in place. On MBK cases and some others that are not exactly oem spec...I use case clamps if the casing screws are too tight in the groove because the movement mounts a hair too high or too low. Thinning the flanges on the casing screws or using tapered [censored] screws is another option. Never had much luck with 'half head' casing screws where there is only half of a [censored] on the screws. They are made for cases without cutouts for the casing screws and sometimes the only option. Note: If the casing screws are too tight against the top (case back side) of the groove...forcing the movement to turn may scrape paint off the edge of the dial or break the dial feet loose from the dial.

Ahhhhhhh, that's smart thinking ... I have an ETA 2846 in the Big Gonzo, specifically because I intend to USE that thing like a one eyed rented mule. I've got all these vintage pieces I never wear anymore because the autowind wheels are wearing out, so the 6538 is made to take their place. Let me know when you're more ready to do the 5508 project, I think I have the dial you need. -------------------- Hoooooooooooooly smokes, dbane .... it doesn't get any nicer than that. Magnificent. You know, you can send it to me for long term "safe" storage...

Just spectacular. How about I send you my case and bezel and you make it look exactly like that?!

lol... you know big B, you are our Horological Hades. Where watches die and burn. Literally.

That’s visual poetry right there!

TC 16622

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