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My brotha from the northern tundra! Looks like we are within a couple years of each other! Beautiful territory in that last shot Nanuq.

Pffffffft, you guys are still wet behind the ears. My birth year and month watch is a lady of a certain age... ...and we all know ladies never tell.

So, I'm guessing you guys were born after 1984 since it has a Biccherini dial?[emoji6] My birth year goes back far enough that it makes a birth year watch quite expensive! But it looks like this... Congratulations to@capre great catch here. Enjoy!

"found some quality control pics from jmb in my inbox, and the bezel is shaped like the gen. i've always wondered why his bezel was praised so much, now i know why." JMB did a very good job on the 1016 bezels, no question about it. "imo, if you're that adamant about the details, i'd just buy a gen." I bet many of the 'genuine' loose bezels for sale today have been made in someone's basement or garage and artificially aged. Q -- Why would I say that?? A -- Because I can crank one out in a few hours. Some of the bezels on '100% genuine' watches are probably garage projects too. Q -- Why? A -- Because it is the nature of the high $$ vintage watch hobby/busine$$ (and 'human nature'). Q -- What is the problem with making a few? A -- The ST smooth bezels are about 34.5mm in diameter and afaik the genuine is closer to 35.0mm. The JMB bezel is 35.0mm and If the .5mm difference really matters to someone, the bezel would have to be made from scratch out of a blank made from a slice of seamless stainless steel pipe etc and that takes longer because much more metal has to be removed compared to the ST bezel. Otoh it is very hard to tell a bezel with 34.5mm OD from one with 35.0mm OD mounted on a watch because the difference when looking down at the watch is only .25mm on each side. Very hard. I never measured a genuine 1016 bezel when I had the chance because back then there was no need to know. "you can find them (1016) for around $20k, which is not a lot of money if you consider how much you'll be dropping towards a watch that is at the end of the day a rep." I remember when you could buy a new 1016 for around $400 and later on, very nice used examples when they were getting 'hot' were going for $1000/$1500 at watch shows...so $20k for one today is not in my small realm of reality. Besides that, there is No Way I would consider paying very much for any overpriced (imho) watch today unless I had a buyer standing by with their $$ in my hand. Q -- Why their $$ in my hand? A -- Because watch buyers are infamously famous for backing out of deals. This is from experience as well as hearsay. For someone who can do the work, a good quality 'swisseta' JMB '1016' could end up costing around $600 to $700: JMB case $$?? can not remember exactly, guessing $250 to $300. Anyone know? Dial...about $100 to begin with but a good used example might be found for around $50. ETA swiss 2824/2846 'combo' mvt...about $100/$125 because you will still have another combo movement left from the parts. Hands...ST, about $15. Change the case tube from 5.3mm to regular 6.0 (drill/tap the case) with a used genuine crown...about $50. Oyster style or quality 'jubilee' with screws...$55 or $60. 580 hoods...$25 from WSO990 to go with the oyster bct. Spring bars, gaskets etc...about $20 Case spacer...$5 Labor...$0 This can be a big factor if you have to farm it out. Probably $300 or $400 for a project like this. The total...$600/$700 approx. Q -- So...what is it 'worth'? A -- At least the going price for the sum of the parts is my guess. Case profiles from: https://rwg.cc/topic/159773-1601-case/

Who could forget this one this a 2004 or even back from 2003?