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i just compared my rafflestime hands to my JF 16610 hands (and i previously compared the JF 16610 hands to gen hands when i had access to gen hands). IMO, rafflestime ETA sub hands are the closest accessible ETA hands set to gen - even closer than HR hands by far. Apart from very minor flaws, the length and proportion is matching, and it definitely looks the part.

If i have to use sub hands for a build, i either use gen (with gen movement) or TC hour hand or Vietnam hour hand + HR minute hand + ETA 116610 seconds hand (which has a slightly longer tapered front; therefore, it is good for building certain periods of 1016). IMO, Clark, Yuki, stock cartel, and Startime sub hands look nothing like gen. I don't understand the praise about them haha. I would say HR's sub hands is the better one, but far from perfect. If you are dying for something quick, Rafflestime (not rafflesdial) sub hands look quite nice: they look like they have the right proportions and they are cut very nicely: Rafflestime minute hand measures 12.5mm from centre to tip.

Buy an old Land Rover and never ever take the watch off. It will acquire a decade of mechanicking scars in a months time

I used an ETA 2879 in a '5512' project using an MBK case and it worked fine. My 2879 is 21600 bph and has the same hand sizes/dial foot location as a 2824/36/46. The date wheel spacer is made on many of these movements like on this main plate on eBay: eBay item number 132309997857 Hard to remove if you need it gone. Have another 2879 with a removable two piece metal date wheel spacer that fits in a groove machined on the outside edge of the movement but do not know if it is a later model or an older model, probably earlier. It has the 'twist' type stem and my 2879 movement with the spacer made on the main plate has a regular straight stem. The 'twist' type stems are twisted where they pass through the clutch wheel/winding pinion. The 2879 can be hacking or not depending on if they came with a hack lever. This 2879 has a spacer like an ETA 2824/36: http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&ETA_2879 ETA 2879 parts list: http://www.tztoolshop.com/page173.html The 'old reliable' ETA 2846 is a good choice but it is better to change it over to a fully jeweled auto wind assembly...many are 17 jewel. The catch is the 2846 is a little bit thicker than a 2824 etc. I have one in an 'Abay' '5513' case made for an ETA 2836 and it fits. Never tried a 2846 in a genspec 5512/13 case iirc. Keep in mind the MBK 5512/13 cases are made to 1680 spec inside for a 1570/75 date movement but are made for 26.0mm dials like a 5512/13 so an ETA 2879 may be too thick to go in a genspec 5512/13 case. Imho it is good idea to use an ETA movement when putting a higher grade project watch together with a high quality case and dial because it lowers the cost by $1000 to $1500 and saves all the rlx 15xx movement headaches. The 15xx movements are not really very rugged no matter what the old advertisements said and parts are getting very expensive. "A rolex watch can take anything your arm can take.' Yeah sure...as long as you sell pillows and futons for a living. Common rlx 1570 headaches: Broken top auto rotor jewels. Worn out rotor axles. Bent/broken teeth on 7917 intermediate auto wheel. The MS lube dries out causing the MS bridle not to slip easily on the barrel wall and active wear 'hammers' the intermediate wheel. Not good for reversers either. Worn out reversers...used to be around $25 each, up to $100+ now. Main plates where the mainspring barrel arbor has worn the arbor hole out of round. Broken balance staffs (used to order them by the dozen). Etc, Etc. Besides all that, even the friendly watch repair guy down the street is now charging the 'doctor's price' to work on a rlx movement because they know there are not many competent watch mechanics left. Q..."How much you charge to clean and oil an ETA 2846?" A..."About 75 dollars." Q..."How about a rolex 1570?" A..."$400 plus parts."