"I used loctite blue on the tube thread plus all 5 gaskets to seal her up tight."
My 2 cents:
The most important gasket of all is the one between the case and case tube. In order for it to function properly the case threads have to be clean and up to spec, the case has to be machined with a proper gasket seat, and the gaskets, case tube, and crown need to be oem spec.
The gaskets...two inside the case tube and one in the crown cap are the 'heroes' of the triplock system but in reality they are vastly under stressed under normal circumstances (above ground or in shallow water). After all, the common 'twinlock' crown is rated to 100M and it has only one gasket in the tube and one in the crown cap. No telling how deep they could really go.
The gasket on the outside of the case tube under the crown skirt is basically a dust seal to keep grit and moisture away from the threads. They usually wear at a higher rate than the internal O ring gaskets because of the dirt.
Loctite is good at holding but not so good at sealing. Sealing depends on the gasket.
I understand we are talking about replicas that may never go deeper than 10M but I have seen as many leaks between the case and case tube as anywhere else on genuine and replica watches...number two is cracked acrylic crystals and plastic sapphire crystal gaskets on genuine watches plus case back gaskets on replicas. Many 'professional' watch repair shops do not even know (or care) that there is a small silver sealing washer that goes between 5.3mm and 6.0mm twinlock case tubes and cases. I have found that most non authorized 'professionally' maintained rolex watches do not have these gaskets and will sometimes leak under water. Gold case tubes/crowns have gold gaskets at this location.
'Non authorized' in this post = no parts account and not much specialized rolex knowledge.
What this all boils down to is the gasket and gasket seat between the case and case tube are very important.