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Thanks both. Have been chatting to crownartcustoms over the last few days, and have a very nice blue/grey Mk3 on its way to Australia now .

Who has the most accurate 5510 bezel insert? For most of them that I’ve found the font is waaaay off. Phongs seem ok but most are overly “aged”z

"I would much rather see an aftermarket attempt to build a moment platform that: 1. Matches alignment with crown/tube holes 2. Accept genuine/aftermarket calendar wheels 3. Accept genuine/aftermarket hand size (and with an ETA Option) 4. Have a mounting system that leverages genuine case mounting (and with a case clamp option) 5. Has accommodations for Genuine or ETA dial feet, or Pie-Pan/6542/6538 dials 6. I really don't care about BPH. No one is fooling anyone anymore... " I am with you 100% except on number 6. Old model 10xx and 15xx rlx run at 18,000 bph and newer 15xx run at 19,800 bph. A vintage rlx project with a 21,600 bph ETA etc will pass the 'layman's sweep test'. The higher grade cases and dials now available for vintage rlx projects are good enough to pass as genuine 80% or 90% of the time but a 28,800bph movement will not pass...imho. "No one is fooling anyone anymore... " I will admit fooling myself is not easy but slower beat movements seem to help...in some cases. pun for fun One comment on using genuine rlx 15xx in vintage projects: I have had my share of watches with rlx 15xx movements and will say they excel at one thing...they build running reserve quickly, maybe because of the low friction nature of the autowind assemblies. Otoh, ETAs do not seem to build reserve as quickly and china '21 jewelers' are duds in my experience. YMMV.

"Did Switzerland become luxury before ww2 or after ww2?" My guess is after WW II. Patek etc made a few very high grade pocket watches before WW II and most were special orders for Rich Fat Cats. After WW II a 'luxury' wristwatch usually had a solid gold case and a movement with more than 17 jewels. Lower priced solid gold models may have 17 jewel movements but no one knew the difference because watch brands might brag about '21 jewels!' but not 17 jewels so it was not printed on the dial. After all, solid gold is solid gold no matter what is under the hood. My favorite solid gold vintage watches are Hamilton and Elgin with Hamilton being number one. Hamilton had super fine movements and they were 100% made in Lancaster PA. Elgin was 100% made in Elgin IL during their heydays. Most cases were square or rectangular and had snap on case backs but they had style and I still see a few today on older adults. Btw, I call them 'one drops' because one drop of water or one drop on a hard floor and they are done for...usually needing a new balance staff. I still have a few but where am I going to wear one? Walmart? Walking around in cheap blue jeans buying a loaf of bread sporting a $500 gold vintage Hamilton? I would be lucky to make it out of the parking lot. (rlx 1030) "Look how simple it is compared to modern watches. Someone can replicate one, easily. Improving with today's materials shouldn't be difficult." The 1030 is Ok but a clone of the 1570/75 would be better imho. Many more 'classics' used the 15xx. Probably never be one so the best I can hope for is a 19800 or 21600 bph movement with dial foot holes matching the rlx 15xx...probably never happen. "Omega use Silicon for hairspring, but very difficult to machine, I can imagine laser cutting. Silicon is $50-70 per lb." Silicon HS are cheap to make, they are made photographically like micro chips, laser zapped, or cast by some mysterious method etc...AFTER gearing up to make them. The technology and machinery are what cost $$. I figure if silicon HS cost much to make they would not be in the ETA Powermatic...a movement no one is 'allowed' to repair btw, except for 'factory' fix-it shops. All kidding aside, the silicon HS is a good idea except for being attached to the balance with glue or whatever quickie method is used. I like plain old screws but I'm 40 years behind the times. Most metal HS are laser welded to the balance now and when one comes loose...you have to buy another balance complete. The Rise of Silicon: a Revolution in Watchmaking (prestigetime.com) "Teflon coating on gears, as rolex PFTE/teflon coat theirs in 3135 and 3235." It is not teflon, they are hard anodized to make them wear resistant. They chose red for the 15xx, 30xx etc. "Rolex Parachrom blue hairspring is 85% niobium. Easy to machine, but expensive. Nobium is $20-35 per lb." Niobium! Are you sure? I thought the fabulous new rolex HS were 85% bullsheetium. Just kiddin'. It's probably pretty good stuff. Which Rolex Movement Takes The Top Spot? A Watchmaker’s Comparison Of Rolex Calibers 3135 And 3235, And Which Is Better? – Quill & Pad (quillandpad.com) "Many top-tier watches use Glucydur for balance wheel and hairspring. Glucydur/beryllium-bronze is $6-8 per lb." Hamilton RR pocket watches used a similar mix 70 years ago, called Elinvar...they made it themselves. Also made their own oil...they had the smallest oil refinery in the world. I went to the Hamilton factory in Lancaster PA and walked all around it about 20 years ago...it had been converted condos. A Master Watchmaker’s Take on Hamilton Watch Company’s Best Hand Wound Movements – Vintage-Hamilton-Wristwatches "As others have correctly stated, gone are the days when mere mortals were able (or could afford) to purchase gen Rolex components for "reasonable" prices." Sad but true. Because of that, some of mine have Roleta movements.

Seriously, somebody need to direct copy a Audemasr Piguet Royal Oak movement..This is taking too long. If I was a bitcoin billionare, I would.. Not for profit but for the greater good of rep society.