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Maranez version of a Doxa Army

In honor of the new year, I dragged out this old thing --

For the Lume-aholics out there...

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"I wonder where can I find a Frankenstein (GMF) watches do you know any TD who sells it?" When I posted the lead on this thread three years ago a 'GMF' vintage rlx 55xx was still somewhat affordable. It is most likely not that way now because of the rapid rise in rlx 15xx movement prices. A 1520/60/70 rlx movement could be found three years ago for around $1200 in good running order but the same thing today is often $2000 or more and may not be in very good condition. This makes a '5512/13/1680' GMF-stein go up over $3000 counting a high grade case, dial, and a pretty good bracelet...plus labor if you can not do it all yourself. Keep an eye on the 'for sale' posts and maybe one will show up, complete or a project with most or all of the critical parts. Other than that, some parts dealers have complete GMF watches for sale but they are highly priced. Btw...the '5512 GMF' mentioned above now has a nos ETA 2879 in it and it performs about the same as before and is more reliable in the long run because of the worsening rlx part$ situation. This makes a similar watch project cost around $1200 or $1500 instead of around $3000 and it looks exactly the same. Modern rlx watch projects are quite a bit different because good cases can be found for around $75 to $100 and 3135 clone movements are $200 or so. They are a different kettle of fish, like sardines compared to New Zealand King $almon. Ha!

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Rule of Highly respected brand name watches...200M = 200 Meters Vertically, under water. No name watches/most replicas...200M = 200 Meters From The Boat Dock Horizontally, above water. All kidding aside, I have not (knock on wood) had a rlx type acryic or sapphire case leak after resealing (or replacing) the case tube/crown, crystal, and gaskets. One exception is case corrosion...it might not leak today but it never gets better. All cases were tested at 90psi to 100psi without the movement after lubricating the gaskets/case back threads with Krytox etc. Always perform the first test w/o the movement because with 'Dunkin' Donut' type water testers...any small leak can sometimes blow the crystal off and flood the case. Also with 'DD' type testers...properly working He valves will usually let air bubbles OUT at first if there is a leak, sometimes followed by water if the case is not pulled out of the water quickly. Defective He valves may let water IN. He valves can be a problem if not maintained, checked for corrosion and gasket defects.

Keep up the good work Mike, and the honest opinions about what works, and what doesn't in the fight against this thing. IMHO we should all go ahead and catch this damned Omicron variant, develop the natural immunities that will result, and put this thing to bed.

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