"Hmm with all due respect the heavy hitters from Vietnam now are ten times the quality of the old fellas in the market."
I understand that. Paul's $10 dials were only an example of how little an average dial cost to make 12/15 years ago.
Today a first rate dial probably cost $40 to $60 to make in VN...or less.
"Honestly on a level to be par with genuine manufacturers."
They are good all right. Probably as good as the 1960s/1970s genuine dials.
The process is the same for $30 dials and $300 dials...a pad printer, dial blanks, and a few drones to do the work.
Stamp 'Singer' on the blank, solder the dial feet to the blank, paint the dial, stamp the letters, apply the lume.
Applying the lume is the only hard thing about it. No applied markers or anything out of the ordinary to fool with, just $3 to $5 in material and a couple hour's work. On a crude production line they can probably turn out 40 or 50 a day. Maybe more.
One main thing that determines how close a repdial is to original is how close the cliché plate is to the genuine dial to start with.
"honestly MQ, phong, ruby etc... could be spot on if they pay attention to detail."
One problem (imho) could be they might not want to get it right in one whack. If they get a little bit better every year, think how many more dials they can sell.
I have one genuine Mk I Lemrich 1680 dial. It is no better that my 1680 dial from IG44...except it has tritium markers and looks older.
I would rather have the IG44 dial on an otherwise genuine 1680 than a modern 'genuine' dial with 'swiss' at the bottom. After all, it is not really 'genuine' either. It's a rerun.
I do not like 'genuine' 44xxxx replacement cases very much either. How can you tell one from a professionally finished replica case? A Yuki 5513 case with 44xxxx serial number might pass after it has been worn a few years.
Here is a Lemrich Mk I dial:
http://rolexpassionmarket.com/watches/rolex-1680-submariner-fantastic-mk1-lemrich-dial-circa-1977/