Pugwash

Thanks for the support, guys. You're making me feel all proud. The one thing I did that isn't part of most CG modders' routine is I filed the flat part between the lugs down so it disappears behind the bezel. This is something that has always been a tell for me. I'll go into more detail later ...

I bought a crystal press specifically to get in on the second run.

This will be why they run 1000 cases and sell some with Asian insides but without ARed Sapphire.

I agree.

I modelled mine on pics of gens and if you look at some old ones, the CGs are sometimes different sizes. Oh, and Kurt's has much better outside slopes.

Um ... I'm in bed. No more photos tonight.

I could do with some close-ups ... ...and a pre-crown/tube FIGHT ON!!!

Or use the Trace function in Illustrator. It's what used to be called Adobe Streamline.

Ok, here we go. This is my Bangkok Best 1680 with modded crown guards and genuine crown/tube. It's been an interesting journey to this point and I couldn't have done it without Sherrington, Justasgood, By-Tor, Ubiquitous and The Zigmeister. There are probably others I've forgotten, and for that I'm sorry. The watch still needs the 2846 (on its way) fitting and the Tropic 127 that's still in its bag until my crown press arrives. After that, it's insert/pearl and drilling the lugs. I've put the watch back together, so everything is screwed in properly. This is pretty much how it will look when finished. Anyway, please, please comment as I think it's as good as I'm going to get as a rank amateur (although I now see faint scratches on the upper CG I can sand/buffer down). Yes, the photos are completely untouched by Photoshop, because it's the work I want to show you, not how pretty a picture I can make.

Watchmaker's Silly Putty.

Yes, but I'd rather learn on non-critical movements, like the broken 2836 from my MBW, instead of on my brand new Breitling Tin Haddock Mega Ocean SuperRep.

Eek! Just when you thought 2836s were safe bets. Thanks for the detailed documenting, Rob. Is there any way to tell if a movement is not as new as hoped just by looking at it? Or do you have to open it up and strip it down?

This is what I do. I don't think I have a watch that still uses the replica strap it was delivered with.

Indeed, but that's straight off the camera with Photoshop just used for Noise Ninja. However, it is a trick photo because the genuine crown (and tube, of course) isn't actually connected to the movement and the crystal/bezel are just placed on the case as my crystal press and 2846 haven't arrived yet.

I have the same steel/rubber options for my Monsters. When it's being worn with day-to-day clothes, I use the steel. When I'm being outdoorsy, I use the rubber or the NATO. I love the choice.

No, are you saying it's possibly gay or something?

Yes?

This is why The Watchmeisters made new overlays.

My cats eat dried food. It's much safer and easier.

I believe Reg and Neil are both still selling pens.

The better the equipment, the better the results.

I have the exact same Tin Haddock on its way. Yay!

I presume this is US-only.