Crown and tube are trivial jobs.
AR is the reason I don't wear my new 42mm as much as I would otherwise. If I had decent AR, I'd be compelled to get gen hands on it. It's just a shame when I look at it next to my UPO with AR.
This was the message I was replying to when RWG was upgraded. I'll answer it again.
I think getting a watch like that restored would be a travesty. Mechanical watches track the progress of time, and sometimes the years will age the dial and hands distinctly. Reversing this ageing would be a crime as it would be removing part of the history that has brought the watch to where it is today. Sure, service the movement and replace interior parts, but under no circumstance should the dial and hands be cleaned.
People have been demanding the rep factories make this model since before I arrived on the scene. There are some counterfeit ones available from IIRC Vietnam, but they're sold as genuines to unsuspecting chumps.
This isn't why they do it as if an "improved" version comes out, it's inevitably from a different factory. Replica factories don't follow the usual rules.
See, that's the problem with lying about your crystals, like the cartel do.
Synthetic sapphire is sapphire everywhere in the world, apart from on Trusty and Josh's websites.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sapphire#Synthetic_sapphire
Is the crystal synthetic sapphire or is it mineral glass?
Some cameras simply cannot take this sort of photo. What you need to do to learn is to take long exposures in the dark.
You need a tripod or other way of keeping the camera stable: this is not negotiable. Focus with the lights on, then turn auto-focus off. Turn off the flash (Duh). Set the exposure for about 20 seconds. Set the timer (or use a cable-release) and stand well back.
That's it.
Hacking the movement? Show me where I've hacked it. Also, on the Panerais with the crown-guard closed, there's no hacking going on there, either.
However, if you need the exposure times, then hopefully I've left the EXIF data intact. Oh, maybe not.
ps. Knowing the exposure time in no way helps determine how bright something actually is. You need a lot more info about the shot than that.
There used to be a source on eBay for used IWC dials, but it dried up about three years ago. If another one crops up, pleas share, as my gen-dialled GST needs friends:
There's no chance of that now. Mrs Pugwash took a liking to the mostly working one so I made it into a complete watch. She's now rockin' a gen 2892A2-powered Raymond Weil. Ho hum.
As I intend to put them in replicas, I'm not too concerned about their longevity, especially as the lot only cost $160 including delivery. I figure if I can get two working movements that then need servicing a year down the line that's still cheap.
Maybe I've not got the bargain I think I have, but I'm definitely not unhappy with them.
I saw this job lot on eBay and decided to just take a chance on it.
It was sold as movements and not watches, two of which were working. When they arrived, this is what I saw.
Those were Raymond Weil watches, one of which is essentially ready to put a strap on and wear.
Only one has a stem, but three of them run. What are those movements? Can you tell?
Here's a hint: