Pugwash

I'm sure that ding will buff right out. You spawny git!

Good luck. Will the upgrades include an iPhone skin?

Motorsports are dangerous, it's part of their appeal. I wish him well, but I hope they don't neuter the sport even further because of it.

I fixed the hands, dial, etc. Finally, after all this time, I have a modded 1680 I can wear.

Ok, that's the right thing to do.

In my opinion, a relume should be third on the list after datewheels and AR coating. If you've not done those two yet, do so before you consider lume.

That's how I get this ... From this: Cropping from macro requires that your photo is very much in focus, though, so you want the tightest aperture you can get. This is tricky with a reverser ring, but it makes a cheaper, slower lens better than a more costly faster one as the default full-open for an f5.6 lens is much better than a default full-open on an f2.8.

Damn you. You're making me want to finish my 1680 today.

I do believe everyone needs a quartz to set the other watches to, and I think in a collection of over a dozen watches, a quartz piece is acceptable. Here's mine: And here's my walking watch: But generally, I'd rather wear a mechanical rep than a quartz gen.

I think this is missing the point a little. The advantage of an SLR isn't the resolution; it's the changable lenses. Depth of field and close focus is exceedingly important for watch photography. A camera phone or point and shoot that doesn't have aperture control or a fast enough lens to have predictable DoF will not be very good for watches. Having said that, as long as a camera fulfils these minimum requirements, pretty much anything will do.

I have those plus a EF-S 55-250mm. Good selection of cheap lenses. Amazing value, especially that 50mm.

I borrowed a time-machine and went back in time to say it before you. WHAMMY!

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?s=&amp...st&p=100224 I may have said it before that on TRC or RWi though.

Wasn't that me? I'm not that wise.

The more you learn, the less you do. Robbie, your photos are extraordinary, and you're making guys like me an By-Tor do less and produce more. That's got to be worth it. The day you think you have nothing to learn is the day you're yesterday's hero at best. However, 90% of the 'togs here can get better by just following basics set out by all the regular guys here. When I first joined the forums, I was an average photographer with a basic understanding of how it worked. I saw guys that were better than me, but I saw a hell of a lot that didn't have a clue. My mission, when I joined TRC back in the day, was to increase the average quality of photos on the forums. I make no pretence at being the best, or even that near the top, to be honest, but I felt I could raise the average by getting the basics out there. My early tutorials now look primitive, and guys like Baz, BT, Robbie, Ubi, Freddie, etc. are significantly better than what I was professing back then, but if nothing else, I shared what I was learning about photographing watches. I look back at my early tutorials and feel embarrassed by what I was doing, right to the point I get another PM thanking me for demystifying the art. It's easy to forget how few people don't even know how to light a scene or point a camera. I look at ThePhilosopher's kit and can only imagine what I could do with that, and then realise that a beginner looks at my very basic kit and says the very same. I'm not one of the greats, but I hope that one day one of the greats will thank me for pointing them in the right direction. ps. Us rep guys [censored] all over the gen guys for skills.

Closest I get to quartz-lust is the Spring Drive.

Like I said, my photoshop is legal. I've been legal since 1993, but that is in no way a call for all of you to be legal. Why am I legal? Because I've earned cash in the past from the software and when that happens, I buy it. Until then, I'm a nasty pirate.

The arguments are as worthy as the discussions. No-one was right, and everyone had an opinion.

Of my watch compositions, this is probably my most recent: Not that the watch part is in any way modified. Photoshop should not be a cheat. You should use photoshop either for "magical compositions", like By-Tor's old composites with Breitlings and aircraft, or to try to show what you saw and not what the camera captured.

Avoid flash at all costs unless you know what you're doing. When was the last time I successfully used an off-camera flash? Back in the 20th century. I've never managed to make it work for watches, because I simply don't have the money or the time.

No. If you need Photoshop, pirate it. Sure, mine may be legal, but I'm not about to judge anyone buying counterfeit watches that steals a copy.

I've got to the point where I shoot for photoshop. I know what the camera will give me, and I know what I can get out of it with Photoshop. You''l notice when i listed my camera kit, I added my laptop to the list. If you think you can get it all in the lens, you're a braver man than I. We shoot digital, and digital means photoshop. Of the photographers here I respect, like By-Tor, and TTK of old, they all shot with the express intention of post-processing their photos. Anyone looking at my modding pics and my show pics will see a huge difference. Modding pics are straight off the camera to show the work and show pics are straight off at least 15 minutes of Photoshop to show ooff the watch. A few of my photographs are even composites of different exposures. I don't hide flaws, but I try to capture what I saw as opposed to what the camera captured. Sure, you can catch it all in the lens and sure, you can use a cheap point and shoot, but you look at the best of the best and I hate to say it but you'll be looking at an SLR and photoshop. Start off with cheap equipment, like I did, and learn the limits. Once you've hit them, invest in decent kit. If you don't hit the limits, your kit is fine.

Light affects everything. Light can be exchanged for camera sensitivity, depth of field, stability and time.

A Macro setting is only really useful if you want to take really close up close-ups. If you want to take an entire watch, a macro isn't the best choice. If your camera can't take really close macros, there's no amount of magic (short of holding a magnifying glass in front of the lens) that will make it do something it can't.

Me too.