automatico

'Hesalite' = another name for a plain old Plexiglas crystal...same stuff as used in three for $1 generic acrylic crystals, $8 GS, AF, Stella etc acrylic crystals, $35 omega acrylic crystals, $75 rolex acrylic crystals, and $250 patek phileeeeppe! acrylic crystals.

$$$...it's all in the name. 

"Yeah but the world has changed a lot in those 20+ years!"

Not very much imho.

Greed is still #1 and selling contaminated scrap metal is just another way to make a fast buck.

Looks like Japan is on the Hot Seat now. The scrap metal has to be pretty bad if the Chinese will not buy it.

"radioactive...something that CUSTOMS would catch."

Twenty+ years ago when I had a real job, I helped place a 100 ton load of scrap steel in a steel company to be used in various projects and the next day it was taped off and guys in hazmat suits were all over it. It was HOT. The load made it all the way from Russia without detection.

From Russia with love...

China is infamous for exporting poison pet food, leaded paint on kid toys etc.

fitmic:

Most of the time I use a single 25.5mm Behr clip-on loupe on a pair of high quality 3.5 strength reading glasses. The loupe has a single lens and folds out of the way when not needed while the high power reading glasses are good for case and bracelet work. I have tried regular 'tube' loupes on headbands but when you look for a part, tool etc, going from a 5x or 7x loupe to the naked eye makes things too much out of focus. This is why I use a clip on loupe on reading glasses...when you do not need the loupe to see something up close on the work space, you still have the magnification of the reading glasses and do not have to back away from the work in order to find screws etc. 

I also have a 25.5mm Behr two lens clip-on loupe and do not use it much because it is a hassle to separate the magnifiers when folding one down. Have a smaller 16.25mm 10x Behr clip-on loupe that is smaller than normal and has very good optics but it is hard to work with because you have to be very still to keep in focus. I use a 10x Bausch and Lomb tube loupe on a spring headband now and then for inspection but it is distorted a little except for right in the center. It is not a high priced loupe and I am sure B&L has better loupes.

What is surprising is how good some of the cheapo no name loupes are. I buy one now and then for a dollar or two and many of them turn out to be very good. I asked an eye doctor about using cheap magnifiers and he said your eyes would let you know if there was any undue eye strain. He also said that working under magnification would not harm your eyes if you use a bit of common sense and rest your eyes now and then.

He said to practice the 20/20/20 rule...look at something at least 20 feet away for 20 seconds every 20 minutes to allow your eyes to rest. 

I have cut quite a few case clamp grooves in cases using a cut-off disc in a Dremel tool while slowly turning the case in the lathe.

It's messy but it's quick and easy.

Use a Sharpie to make a line where you need the groove and start the disc on the line.

The power of the loupe is one thing and focus length is another. Case and bracelet assembly/repair usually needs about 200mm (8 inches or so) space between the object and loupe so a lower power magnifier will work fine (3x, 5x or so). For regular movement work (inspection/disassembly/assembly) you will usually need a loupe/headset that will allow you to work up close (around 100/200mm/4 to 8 inches) something around 7x or so.

Oiling, balance/hairspring work needs a magnifier that will allow you to get close...50 to 100mm (2 to 4 inches) and this is usually something like 10x to 15x. 

Loupes are often mislabeled and many of the cheaper '10x' loupes you see are really 5x or 7x.

Many '10x' and above loupes are hard to focus because of poor optics and blurred except for a very small area in the center. They are virtually useless.

Many times I have to look at something with my 20x Bulova Accutron scope to see exactly what is going on and then work on it with a 10x loupe under bright light.

I have a 15x 'telescope' loupe for close examination but it is hard to do any work using it because you have to get so close to keep it in focus.

You can't fix it if you can't see it.   

The only brands I know much about are vintage Bulova and rolex. I have noticed rolex parts are up maybe 50% in the past few years on eBay. I bought a new in original package 1570 winding rotor with axle on eBay a year back for $25.50 (!!) and now I am seeing old ratty examples for $150 to $200. I bought a few new 1530 reversers for $125 for two (full set) and now they are around $200. They were $25 each new in 1995.

Rotted out rolex cases actually worth maybe $35 are priced for $300 and just one movement screw might be $25.

Rough Air Kings like I used to buy for parts are now going for $1500+.

I did buy a slightly rusty looking 1530 autowind assembly for $100 on eBay that turned out to be just fine though. At the same time I see rusted solid rolex movements going for $600+. Total junk.

Because of today's prices, I'm seriously considering taking my Frankensteins apart and selling the genuine movements. I feel much more comfortable with Eta movements anyway.

About the only vintage mechanical Bulovas that have gone up are Oceanographers, military watches, and solid gold stuff. Movements and parts are still fairly cheap.

Bought a 14k Lady Hamilton with 10 diamonds last week and the cal 911 movement was rusty, I found a running replacement with dial and hands on eBay for $16 delivered...less than one rolex screw.

The engraving between the lugs is pretty good but not real deep. It IS engraving though, not laser etch like MBK etc.

The lettering inside the case back is very good. Better than some genuines I have seen but all three prongs on the 'E' in rolEx are the same. Rolexperts claim the center prong should be shorter.

Before the internet, these cases would have passed for genuine most of the time.

Nice A-racer!

I have a few quartz TAG/H and really like them. I had to look the bracelet over very closely on the TAG 'LINK' before removing a link though You have to start from one end of the clasp or the other and they just slide apart.

The others are 'Professionals' (Professional what?), an old T/H 1000 quartz and an old T/H 1000 automatic (2824 missing the signed rotor).

The quartz T/H 1000 was all black (with much of it worn away) so I bead blasted the case and installed a new blasted jubilee type bracelet similar to original with the original clasp.  

I never could understand why watchsnobs are down on T/H watches.

They are very well made, decently priced (especially used), and the quartz time and date models are trouble free.

Maybe that is why they do not like them. 

Would you rather have...

1... a seven year old watch that has been worn about two years total and flopping around on a winder the other five and needing service for sure?

2...or a watch worn two years total out of seven and parked the rest of the time with immediate service not really an issue?

Both at the same price.

I would always go for watch number 2.

Most of these haughty Pric-ks assume the person wearing the replica can not afford the genuine article.

Overheard at a Snobby AD..."You are wearing a FAKE watch Sir!!"

Replica owner..."Yes, but I can write a check for any watch in the showcase."

SAD..."Ok then, write us one."

RO..."I'm too smart for that."

Watchsnob..."Is that watch FAKE or real?"

RO..."If it was not real you could not see it." 

I have a few watches very similar to the watch pictured in goldtone over steel and all steel. I changed two of them over to running seconds at 6 and froze the other two hands and the center sweep second hand. There are a few posts on it from about 3 years ago. They are pretty good watches and the strap and clasp are pretty good too. When you remove the bezel and crystal, the half hoods on the lugs come off in  one piece made on a ring clamped down by the bezel.

The guy I got mine from paid $65 each for them about 5 years ago. The NYC 'importer' he got them from paid $45. He resold them for $100. I traded him out of a few. 

He had steel Daytonas with A7750 sec at 9 and sec at 6 for $225 iirc. Do not know what he paid. I have one each 'nos' but did not get them from the same guy. Never wore them because I am not a fan of the A7750, especially with sec at 6.

The guy also had all steel watches similar to the watch pictured with a lower grade case with hoods made on the case, lower grade dial. strap, and clasp. He paid $35 for them and sold them for $75. The 'importer' paid $23.

Agree with By-Tor.

Fat lugs and sub C are not 4 me.

imho...

The Last submariner date made was the 16610.  Might wear one on a rainy day.

Before that was the Real submariner date, the 16800.  Would wear one on a sunny day.  Favorite of the sapphires, but must have a matte dial.

...and before that was the Original submariner date, the 1680. Might own a genuine example someday.  Nah, forget it.  Mucho dinero.

The last COOL submariners were the 5512 and 5513.  No Dates.  No Warts.  No Worries.

Might let a vintage SD in the house though.

...or a $255USD GMT  (1970 list price from  www.minus4plus6.com/PriceEvolution.htm )

Thanks! That's good news.

I did not want to take a chance on scratching the top of the case, bending the retainer bezel, and/or scratching the crystal.

Glossy black dials are very easy to damage so it might be better to send it back to TC if you are in the same country. Otherwise maybe get another set of hands from TC and let a pro install them.

I have probably r/r 1000 dials/hands on 'good' watches and glossy black dials still make me very, very nervous, Just removing them with a layer of padding between the hand puller and dial can still leave a mark.

Etc, etc...

I usually remove hands pointing at 12:00 so the (padded) hand puller will not remove any letters on the dial because sometimes the lettering just above and below the center will stick to the padding if you remove the hands pointing toward 3  or 9, especially on new dials. 

It's a good idea to use a 'hand stand' that holds the hand pusher tool securely in line when pushing the hands on and it's also a good idea to pad the hands so they will not get scratched at all by the tool. If a hand pusher slips off the hand onto the dial it will usually leave a mark.

If the hands do not fit, it's better to broach or close them using a spare movement and dial to try them on and make only one final fitting on the watch.

If the movement hacks you can usually get by with r/r the hands at exactly 12:00 without running them around to see when the date flips when installing the new hands.

Sometimes the date flips at a different time when running the hands around with the crown compared to letting the watch run and flip when it gets to 12 because of slack in the various wheels.

Last but not least is dealing with dust...glossy black dials attract dust from miles around.

If it was mine...I would leave it as is for now and get a spare set of hands from TC to install when you need to take the watch apart for something else.

The only thing worse than glossy black dials are hairsprings. 

Q1...Does anyone know if the latest Yuki 5512/13 cases have the groove machined under the crystal retainer bezel for a gasket? I am working on one and do not want to remove the bezels just to see if there is a groove.

Q2...If there is a groove...do they come with a gasket in the groove when received from Yuki? (I am asking because my MBK cases came with the groove but no gasket)

Q3...Anyone get a dial from Yuki lately with uneven finish on the lettering? They look pretty good until you scope them out with a standard loupe (5X or higher) and the lettering is splotchy, not smooth.

I finally bit the bullet and bought a couple Yuki cases and will say their 5513 and 5512 cases have very good fit and finish, imho better than my MBK cases. Probably worth the $$ difference for a rlx powered Frankenstein but maybe not for an Eta powered project.

They came with everything except the crowns.

"...I bought two MBW 5513 cases, and both my gen dials fit beautifully."

The dial seats in all the MBW/MBK 5512/13 and 1680 cases I have seen were machined to accept a 26mm dial on an Eta 2836. This is why the dials on their 1680 cases are trimmed down...they were originally 26.5 or 27mm and they had to be trimmed to fit the 26mm dial seat. The trouble starts when you try to install a genuine no date rolex 1520/30/60/70 with a genspec 26mm dial on it. The movement mounts too close to the front of the case and the stem does not center in the case tube and after you put a crown on it the threads will not line up correctly putting the crown in a bind.

The fix?

There is not one other than leaving the calendar spacer on a 1575 etc date movement with all the calendar stuff removed and use a 26mm 5512/13 dial (I have done this). Matter of fact I have a '5512' made this way with a no hack 1575 and Yuki dial. It turned out fine but I used case clamps and screws in place of the rolex style case screws that turn in a groove in the case and jam the movement toward the top of the case.

If you have a no date rolex movement and 26mm dial, a Yuki etc case is a better alternative imho even if they cost more. Either that or just go with an Eta movement in the MBW/MBK case.

A genspec 26.5mm 1680 dial on a 1575 date movement will line up Ok if you machine the dial seat out to about 26.7mm (I have done this). The catch is the dial window is too small and the markers are about half covered up by the reflector (rehaut).

The fixes?

Cut the dial window out to allow more of the dial markers to show (I have done this). You can get by with cutting the dial window at a 90 degree angle where it contacts the dial to increase the diameter but it will show if you are looking for it.

One alternative is to mount the lathe head at an angle and cut a steeper angle in the reflector to enlarge the dial window (I have done this too). It is a bit risky because there is not much room for error.

Nothing is easy. 

Agree with c2424.

I have had pretty good luck with DW cases overall.

My last DW '1680' case from a couple months ago was a good fit with a genuine 1575 and 26.5mm genspec dial. I used a TC case tube/crown and had to cut the inside of the cg out on one side just a hair. A Clark T19 and bezel assembly fits the case Ok. Some other aftmkt crystals would not work. 

My last two DW cases came without numbers between the lugs but with lettered/numbered case backs.

I first ordered a couple DW cases about three years ago and they had full numbers back then. Since then I discovered that the DW cases I have are machined for a 1575 date movement and 26.5mm dial, including the cases numbered as '5513' cases.

All the dial windows on my cases are 26.0mm and a 26.0mm 5513 dial is too small. A 26.5mm 1680 oem spec dial is Ok.

Since my cases (including '5513' cases) are made for a 1575 date movement and 26.5mm dial, a 1520/70 no date movement and 5513 spec dial will not be a proper fit in the case because the movement is located in the case by a shoulder machined on the movement, not the dial. For this reason, the stem will still be centered in the case tube just fine but the dial will not fit up against the dial seat. When you put a 1520/70 no date movement and 26mm 5513 spec dial in one of these cases the dial will be about .5mm below the dial seat and this will work Ok as long as the dial foot screws stay tight.

All the case necks where the crystal mounts are 28.08mm to 28.10mm.

There are different case backs on the cases I have...

36.35mm od with 30.95mm threads

35.95mm od with 30.95mm threads

35.95 mm od with 30.4mm threads

Some case backs will accept oem spec gaskets and some will not because the grooves are too shallow.

They are good project cases for the price.

I have written a dozen posts on DW cases and apologize for boring everyone but it might save someone from getting in a mess.

DW cases = You pays you money and you gets da luck of da draw. 

"A service cost more than a replacement part..."

Tudor 390 sometimes has auto winding problems and parts are getting hard to find.

Tudor 390 = FEF 380 base with autowinding added.

"I like to try before I buy."

Whiskey and Wild Wimmen fer sure. 

Since you will be buying with CA$H...I can tell you where to find some of the lowest prices on genuine watches. Believe it or not...

Gun shows and hot rod car shows.

Why?

Because gun and car guys often take high $$ watches in on trades or buy them from gun and car nuts needing $$ (mostly rolex). They do not have much in them and do not care about them.

NAWCC etc watch and jewelry shows on the last day. Many of these guys are stuck with the watches and will sometimes blow them out for CA$H just before they go back home.

Pawn shops at the end of the month. Keep a check on what they have on display and if a watch has been out for over 60 days, they might cut a deal on it close to the end of the month because this is when they 'tally up' their sales.

Just for fun, see if you can figure out their price code. Many still use the old HONESTBUCK price code with letters for numbers.

Always remember...a deal is where you find it.

Put a small ad in the local paper 'Buying rolex watches', use a burner phone for communication and meet sellers at your bank and offer about one third to one half regular retail price. Many people trying to sell high $$ watches end up selling them to a pawn shop and losing their azz but they will act like they do not need the money when you talk to them because they do not want you to know they are desperate. Act like you are low on $$ too but still want a watch and might have just enough in the bank to buy their watch.

Draw the $$ out of your account and pay for the watch in the bank to discourage robbery.

You have to know what is what because three fourths of the watches will be fake.

Watch Buyer Rule #1...Nobody needs an expensive watch...especially the guy trying to sell the watch.

...and the guy buying the watch.

WBR #2...Never buy an expensive watch unless it feels like you stole it.  

Big $$ losers:

Dope

Cars

Boats

Horses

Houses

Jewelry

Watches

Whiskey

Gamblin'

Wild Wimmen

Make sure the crystal retaining bezel is pressed all the way down against the case with no high spots. As a.w.o said, try it without the tension washer and see if it works. If it turns Ok without the tension washer you can sand the tension washer down on 1000 wet or dry sandpaper on glass (or anything flat) under running water to thin it down until it provides just enough tension to keep the bezel in position.

Make sure the tension washer does not get out of place when snapping the rotating bezel over it because it will jam the rotating bezel solid. Also make sure the tension washer is not too small ID or too big OD causing the trouble.

If the bezel turns but has hard spots...take it off and put some polishing paste (Simichrome etc) all around where it turns, snap it on, and turn it back and forth as many times as needed to loosen it up. Remove the bezel, clean all the paste off and refit it on the watch.

I used Clark bezel kits on a couple DW 1680 cases with Clark 19 crystals and they worked fine after I sanded the tension washers down a little. I tried two or three different aftmkt crystals and the Clark 19 crystal worked the best but has no magnifier.

I never cared much for omega but the modern model parts supply has dwindled down to a few crowns, crystals, bezel inserts etc from many USA supply houses already while nos parts for vintage models are rapidly disappearing.

I saw this coming with rolex 15 or 20 years ago so I stocked up on new and used parts for 1530 base movements plus crowns and acrylic crystals. It turned out to be a good move as the crowns I paid $35 for 15 or 18 years ago are now going for $150 to $200 on eBay (nos gold 5.3 and 6.0 crowns).

I have enough rolex parts to last as long as I'll need any and would advise anyone who is really into watches to decide what brands and models they want for 'keeper watches' and buy a few parts to keep them running before they cut all the parts off. One good thing with omega is they have mostly Eta running gear where rolex was 'in house' except for valjoux and zenith Daytonas.

I resisted selling parts and it turned out to be a good decision because the four boxes of new and used rolex parts I have maybe $5k in is now worth $20k or more.

As for watches...it's too bad I held on to 6605/16xx DJs, 6694, AK, and OPD for 'keepers' because they have not increased very much in value and are probably worth more for parts than as running watches.

Instead of removing the quick set date parts, maybe just remove the humps on the set bridge for the qs position.

That way you will still have the qs function but no one but you will know the watch has it.

This saves wearing the canon pinion out.

I write these notes just in case someone down the road gets bogged down on a project and maybe needs a way out without spending a lot of time and/or $$. I know very few members care but some of us work on projects quite a bit. Maybe someone will read this and it will help them out of a jam.

I just finished a 1003 'explorer' project with a genuine 1003 case, 1560 mvt, Yuki dial, ST hands, and Sternkreuz 12 crystal.

It all went Ok except for the bezel as the case came with a 14k gold bezel and I needed a steel bezel.

Here is the problem...

The case uses the same crystal as an Air King and a few other no date 34mm watches...number 12.
I went to eBay to see how much a bezel would cost and the bezels that were claimed to be genuine ran from $75 to $295(!!) and most were said to fit 5500, 1002, 1003, 1500 etc with the 1500 being an OP Date. I passed on eBay offerings and bought a new replacement bezel for an OPD from ST Supply for $15. It was about half a mm too high but I figured I could lower it by sanding it down.

The ST bezel is the exact same inside diameter as a genuine 1500/15000 bezel.

I tried three or four different number 12 aftmkt crystals and they all were the same...the bezel was too loose, you could pull it off with a feather.

So...the sellers on eBay are wrong about their bezels fitting the 1500 and 1002 etc. They will not fit them all. Typical eBay information.

I never needed a bezel for a no date 34mm watch so I did not know about the different bezel sizes on vintage 34mm no date and date cases.

I went so far as to remove a bezel from a genuine rolex 1500 OPD and compared it with the ID of the ST bezel...both are the same.

I even mounted a new genuine number 12 crystal...same story, the genuine 1500 bezel is too loose with a number 12 crystal on a 1003 case. I have some 316L bezel blanks but it takes me half a day to make a bezel from scratch so I was looking for an easier solution. 

What did I do? Worried it over for a few days. Yesterday I was prowling through my watch stuff and found a couple 34mm flatback 'tudor' cases I got from JMB a couple years ago with glass crystals and popped one of the bezels off and tried it on the 1003 case with a Sternkreuz number 12.

It was a perfect fit and also low profile like an original 1002/3 bezel!

Problem solved.

Etc...

A 1002/3/5500 genspec case back will not fit the 34mm 'tudor' case.

The 'tudor' case would be a good base for a 34mm 'explorer' project with an Eta mvt, Yuki dial, number 12 crystal, and properly shaped case back. You could probably get by using the 'flatback' case back that comes on the case if you sanded the 'tudor' lettering off of it.

The JMB 34mm case would also be ideal for a tooter ranger project...the dial seat is 27.3mm, dial window opening is 26.25mm and the case neck is 28.15mm.

A genspec number 12 acrylic crystal is a good fit and a Yuki ranger dial is 27mm.