yodap

The most accurate dial color is graphite. Check this: http://repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=71640

Actually, Dave HAD a genuine one. He sold it already. No decent rep of this one currently.

Nope, the slide rule does align on this one... FINALLY! Greetz.

lol

No problem with the stopwatch running, it's quartz (Miyota OS20) powered. Wouldn't be a problem for an A7750 either though. Nice watch!

The link doesn't work...

I asked the same thing about half year ago, and everyone said I'm a scammer... That's what everyone thinks when you are new and ask a question like this. I'd still like to get papers for my watch, but no way. They aren't available. If only a gen owner could scan his paper, remove the COSC no. and upload it here... That would be GREAT! Although, it would be also a BIG help for scammers selling fakes as genuine on eBay, so I understand why this isn't happening. Any gen owners to chime in? Greetz.

The rep version exists as gen.

Yes, ask 'em. They could do it easily, there's nothing tough to do...

The gen version exists, the rep doesn't (yet)...

Thanks for the comments guys, I'll upload my pics tomorrow. Hope you'll find them helpful. Greetz.

Hi all, After getting several PMs asking about which version to buy, I thought I'll post this, it'll be easier for everyone. The pics are from Toad's excellent V3 review, special thanks to him. I won't go into deep details as he did, just a short list of the pros / cons. So, here we go: V1 AS: +Correct caseback +Correct color subdial hand tubes +Correct chrono sec hand color +Valid manufacturing date between the lugs +Crisp bezel engraving -Pearl itself too big, and the surrounding metal ring is a bit too thin -Incorrect shape of numeral '1' on the bezel in 10 and 15 -Weak AR -Half lume dot at 3 -Bezel engraving is too thick compared to the genuine (I'd say about 1,1x or 1,2x ,not a very big difference) -Engraved numbers on the bezel don't go close enough to the edge of the bezel -'B' on the side of the bezel is etched, not engraved like the gen. -Chrono pushers are too long V2 AS: +Decent AR +Correct size lume dot at 3 +Bezel engraving is spot on (thickness wise) +Engraved numbers on the bezel go close to the edge of the bezel like on the genuine +Engraved 'B' on the side of the bezel +Correct length chrono pushers +More accurate pearl and surrounding ring +Correct shape of numeral '1' on the bezel in 10 and 15 -Less crisp bezel engraving, not noticeable without a loupe -Incorrect color subdial hand tubes (easy fix though) -Incorrect font type used for the model number on the caseback (numbers are too tall) -Invalid manufacturing date between the lugs (watch is made in 2016) -Incorrect chrono sec hand color (too blood red, not really noticeable) -More expensive than the V3 -Many movement problems reported (mine was also faulty) V3 AS: +Correct caseback +Correct color subdial hand tubes +Supposedly more reliable movement, I haven't heard of any problems yet +Correct chrono sec hand color +Valid manufacturing date between the lugs +Cheaper than the V2 +Crisp bezel engraving +Correct size lume dot at 3 +Cheaper than the V2 -Incorrect shape of numeral '1' on the bezel in 10 and 15 -Pearl itself too big, and the surrounding metal ring is a bit too thin -Weak AR -Bezel engraving is too thick compared to the genuine (I'd say about 1,1x or 1,2x ,not a very big difference) -Engraved numbers on the bezel don't go close enough to the edge of the bezel -'B' on the side of the bezel is etched, not engraved like the gen. -Chrono pushers are too long Now onto the pictures: Subdial hand's tube color Manufacturing date between the lugs Chrono pushers V1 half lume dot Caseback Bezel This isn't a really good pic, the V2's rider tab is over-enlarged compared to the gen / V3. In real life the V2 is closer to gen, just wanted to show what engraving crispness means. Shape of numeral '1' on the bezel Don't care about the evo dial just look at the case, it was a custom project, and someone on RWG thought that it was genuine, and I posted a pic showing that it's not. That would be it, I might post some more pics later if needed. If I missed something in the specifications, please feel free to let me know. I'd like to get other members experiences, but I do not want to argue about anything, everyone sees things differently. And last but not least, this write-up isn't only based on reviews, pictures and dealer's specifications, but on my experiences after comparing both the V2 and a V3 to a genuine at the same time. Greetz.

I totally agree with you. Quote from a PM with Hackr: "As for the daytona offer, thanks, but my friend is kinda crazy ya know... He drives a Golf IV and is still sure that everyone will believe that his full gold 20k+ daytona is genuine. I just can't comment this " Rek001: Thanks, I'll try him! Greetz.

Antomarty: Thanks, I'll drop Josh a mail! Danzeman22: Please read my post as well, not only the topic title. Thanks.

Only 2824. Greetz.

Thanks mate, but Jay isn't, well, the 'best' dealer around... Long delays after order etc. etc. Anyone else you could recommend? Thanks!

Hi everyone, I want to buy a full gold daytona on bracelet, I need it for a friend of mine. Quartz or Asian 21J, doesn't matter, it's gotta be as cheap as possible. And last but not least, I'd buy it only from a trusted dealer. Do you know where I could get one? Thanks in advance!

Your Colt seems to have standard ETA font, which was used by Breitling as well before they started to apply their own DWs on the movements.

Gens aren't black, they are actually really dark maroon color. The rep GT is unfortunately incorrect. (The gen Motors came with red date when they came out though)

They don't produce movements, they buy them from the movement factories. Maybe there are more factories, or I don't know.

The Skyland also uses the Pro2 bracelet, it wasn't available with Pro1 (only the CA was). My V2 bracelet is same as the SA bracelet, they come from the same maker. I've never seen a V3 bracelet though. Greetz.

Well, tell him you want to get the movement in your watch serviced. That means fully disassembled, cleaned, oiled and reassembled.

Sounds like it'll need a full service then - I had the exact issue. These 'stops' will come more and more often, then sometimes it'll stop even on your wrist. Get it serviced or send it back to the dealer if it's new. Greetz.

+1 on that!

lol, we forgot the main question, sorry Check these: http://www.jpc8118.com/0000blsa10005-skyland-avenger-chrono-ssss-black-a7750-28800bph-p-5120.html http://www.jpc8118.com/0000blsa10006-skyland-avenger-chrono-ssss-blue-a7750-28800bph-p-5121.html http://www.jpc8118.com/0000blsa10007-skyland-avenger-chrono-ssss-graphite-a7750-28800-p-5122.html Greetz.