RedSoxMan

Ultimate 252 w/ Peter Gunny...

W Union Square is really nice; regardless, I'd stay at any W versus the rest of your list.

199 Ult. on Peter Gunny...

That "plate" is called the rotor--it is normal for this to spin when you manually wind the watch. Also, when you wear the watch--this spins and that's what automatically winds/powers your watch. In fact, it is advised that you never manually wind your watch

RSM

Apparently the AR on the outside of the BP is very susceptible to this... Even a polishing cloth can strip off the AR on these. Perhaps that's what happened here... (the stripping is on the edges.)

I'd EITHER get the DSN or the cheaper Asian one. Not the expensive one in the middle... DSN's hold their value well--and you get what you pay for in terms of quality--particularly the quality of his dials and super lume. The argument for the cheaper one is since you're new--you'll find out if you even like this model, without sinking too much cash into it. Either way, you can always sell--and try something else. I'm sure you considered this, but the 111 is sort of the classic PAM. It's thicker than the 183 and has a bit more presence... Also, if you want an Automatic--the 104 is a great starter one. DSN has the best out-of-the box one... Good luck. RSM

Very nice combo... I'm usually a black dial guy, but the White dial on the SOSF is the way to go. RSM

The myth of over-winding... "Watches are often found stopped with the mainspring fully wound, which led to a myth that winding a watch all the way up damages it. What actually happens is that as time passes and the watch movement collects dirt and the oil dries up, friction increases, so that the mainspring doesn't have the force to turn the watch until the end of its running period. If the owner continues to wind and use the watch, eventually the friction force reaches the 'flat' part of the torque curve, and quickly a point is reached where the mainspring doesn't have the force to run the watch even at full wind, so the watch stops with the mainspring fully wound. The watch needs service, but the problem is caused by a dirty movement or other defect, not 'overwinding'."

3717 on custom Gunny Pilot strap...

They only sell mineral glass version now, right?

Below is my "V1" on a custom Peter Gunny "Pilot" strap (also have my 3717 Pilot on a Gunny "Racer" for comparison)... The V1 dial/case, by all accounts, looks and feels exactly like the gen. This was confirmed by a RG member who owns the gen--and held the two up together without discerning a difference. Regardless of movement, this is one of the most impressive reps I've ever held in my hand. Anyway, here are the pics:

I could live with it if date wheel was black (w/ white numbers) like the gen; even if the font was a little off... The white sort of kills it for me... the type of thing that screams rep a mile away.

i have a 22mm on mine, and it fits fine...

You guys are unbelievable... The V3 is NOT sold by Trusty Time (again, it appears people have reading comprehension issues on this board...) Trusty sells the V2 5002 (functional Power Reserve) but some issues with the dial layout and engravings... The V3 is only sold by Time4Direct (on RWI) and Prestige Watch Company (on RepGeek)--this is the same company. They DON'T HAVE A WEBSITE. So, if you want to browse their watches/specs/prices--you need to go on the those other Forums. I didn't feel comfortable putting a link to the other forums on RWG, since this dealer is not backed by this forum. And, as I mentioned, it has been well-documented that the V1 has the superior accuracy on the exterior; and V2/V3--has flawed dials, but functional Power Reserve (the PR indicator had to be moved a few mm's on the dial to work...) RSM

The V3 is sold by a dealer who sells on the two other sites... (again, read my post above.)

RG still down (at least for me...)

Read the post above yours.

The V3 is being sold by Time4Direct/PWC. It apparently has excellent power reserve and an improved case back. However, to make the power reserve work, both V2 and V3 had to compromise the layout of the dial (i.e. placement of power reserve dial). Thus, for external accuracy, the V1 is still considered to be the best...

I think if you're going to "lie" or pass a rep off as real--you better have a decent one, and know what (if any) the flaws are. I'd rather come clean with someone, than have them secretly know that I'm a liar... (And, yeah, ultimately I'd rather have reps that are so perfect that they pass as genuines--and I don't need to blink if someone looks at them twice...