chiman12

That is one awesome piece F!!!! Wear it well!

hhhmmm...N...that does look good!

Yeah...you're right freddy, though the roulette wheel does look very cool, the purist in me also says go with the "all black" date wheel @ JoJo...I saw your bezel insert (nice!), but was looking for a pepsi color combo and not the coke color combo In fact...if anyone has a nicely faded pepsi bezel insert, gen or rep, let me know and I'll be glad to take it off your hands!

We discussed here about how a Josh 1655 would be a good candidate for a 1675 project. In fact, a couple of members, including Star69 has already built a 1675 from the 1655. Even though it isn't 100% complete, I thought that I would give an update on my 1655 conversion to a 1675 Cornino. Of course, the most distinctive feature of the 1675 Cornino is the pointed crown guards. I could not find any references of how the crown guards would look underneath the bezel assembly and I thought that Rolex would just not file the crown guards to a point. I believe that the they had to be sculpted, in that the CG curves and blends with the case. So the case visited the chiman CG spa and here are the results... While I was sculpting the CGs, I also softened the edges of the case I purchased a bezel assembly from ewatchparts.com, afterall it was the cheapest. Needless to say, you get what you pay for, because the bezel insert sucked, it looked like paint didn't completely transfer onto the insert and the bezel didn't have a pronounced coin edge. Oh well, both can be fixed easily. The mag on the rep crystal was a bit weak, so I installed a Sterny 116 For the dial, I chose an NDT gilt chapter ring dial. I wanted to do something different to the dial and I really like the looks of my Tudor California dial, but I can't seem to find the original post discussing the dial. But in any case, here it is... I want the same pebble effect as my California dial. I think it turned out really well, but Rolex purists would say otherwise. I accomplished the finish by spraying the dial with clear matte Kryon finish and I then proceed to get a folded up paper towel and dabbed at the dial to soak up the excess finish until I got the desired effect. The only GMT movements that I see in reps are the gen, modified ETA, or Asian GMT movements. I did a lot of research on GMT movements and decided upon this for my project... It is a Zodiac 75B and a pure GMT movement. In fact, the size of the GMT post on the 75B is the same size as the gen Rolex GMT hand, while the minute, hour, second hands are all ETA spec. In addition, the date flips exactly in the same direction as the 1575, so I used a gen-like date wheel from wholesaleoulett990 as an overlay for my project. But, once again, I strayed a little bit from the norm and installed a roulette wheel... But there was a slight snag in my project that I had to overcome. When I applied the wholesaleoutlet overlay on top of the original date wheel, the combo was too thick and the date wheel was rubbing against the dial and didn't flip properly. The solution? I flipped the dial rest around and the problem went away! You can see the edge of the dial rest in the pic and the date wheel now flips without any problems. So why did this work? When you install a dial back onto a movement, you'll notice that the edge of the dial rest actually receeds a bit into the dial rest groove. By flipping the dial rest around, it no longer receeds into the groove and you get that additional bit of space for the date wheel to flip properly. I'm currently aging the hands, in addition I broke my small GMT hand so I need to source another one, but here are a few pics with the watch put together without hands, but it does have the proper 5.3mm crown... I would say that this project is 75% complete. I need to change out the bezel insert for a better one, most likely a faded gen and I'll fix the bezel so it has a more pronounced coin edge. I also discovered that the Sterny 116 cyclope was off to one side. I checked with CousinsUK and Sterny sells two different versions of 116's, so I'll grab the other one and see if it fixes the problem. I'll also touch up the insides of the CG's a bit and slap on a nice Yuki rivet bracelet on it I'll post an update once I get the watch completed.

It's our family dog...our son named him Garfield...and he likes humping my leg, so he must really like me and has been immortalized as my avatar...

J!!! I remember buying a ladys Tudor dial a long time ago from Watchco, wanted to use the shield on another project, but didn't because the shield was too small. I'll have to dig around, but if I find it...it's yours!

You are truly the King of Tudors J! Well done, now you gotta add a couple of old subs in the fray

2846 are a dime a dozen...check on CousinsUK...they have tray's of them..in open and closed packs. I don't think the 2846 has ever been repped also...

what the heck J!?!?!? I thought you were done all your projects! Love the dauphine hands also...and agree that it should be on a black strap...actually a black teju strap...

That looks super! Are you going to source the correct bezel for it also?

I buy mine from CousinsUK...plus it's relatively quick shipping to Canada I find that other aftermarket 703 tubes are not as "smooth" as the Cousin ones...

Isn't because the retainer ring on the 1675 is 30.0mm and this is why there are two different sizes?

Yikes!!! A beauty!

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Very nice! Reminds me of the Omega racing dials. Are you sure it is a 7750 and not a 7733? But what Pete said, those are simple, but readily available chrono buttons.

Interesting about the Yuki case forrestal, because I purchased a 6538 and the only thing wrong on it was the case back, but I fixed that. The dial and the movement fit perfectly! Sorry to hear about that, because I have been following your 6538 builds!!! You would probably need to send the case to someone so they can machine the groove down.

Love the swap over J! The fluted bezel really goes well with the linen dial!

I'm going to respectfully disagree pete...they are not different at all besides the engraved rotor and the bridges that say Tudor and that it is stamped 2783...so what you are saying that a Tudor 2824 is different than a normal 2824? If you want to fall for that AD trap, then go for it and pay $350 for a movement that is worth $120...

Unless it is a 390, I really see no reason to pay anything more than $100 for an ETA that has been restamped...yes...yes...it is a Tudor, but I agree with JinXx...the 2784 is no more than a 2783 with a Tudor engraved rotor...but then...supply and demand dictate otherwise I guess...

Let's put it this way...I still have my fathers 1968 DateJust with the original invoice...$1500HK, he mentioned that he had to save several months to buy it...so back then, labor would have been cheaper...plus look at the prices of VC, glashutte, etc. which are all pretty much decorated and assembled by hand...yes...R&D has a play into the price, but it is not as much as people think, especially when the design needs only slight modifications by CAD to make it into a different model... I agree that marketing might take a big chuck of the pie... Edit... Alright 75% maybe high for labor costs, but at least 40% I would think...

Tough to call, I bet 75% of the cost of building a watch is labor...

If you tried it at the AD and love the watch so much, maybe consider a used Link...they sell in the $1200 range and even cheaper...if your timing is good...

Thanks SC! I grew up with Rush...I'm gonna have to check it out!

There was a movie about Rush???

A super tonneau Tudor!?!?!?! Who would have thunk it! Love the Jumbo Tudors! Now if you can only make a Jumbo Day-Date then we will be doing this!