marrickvilleboy

thanks bytor. I can't find them on any dealers section...maybe not the most popular to rep i guess.

any reps of this model? anybody know? thanks!

no reps of this model is available right? i mean....[censored]...pretty hard to actually rep the homing device, but pretty cool watch!

thats what the genuine automatic reduced version should look like. that replica is like a mixture of the moon and the reduced.

Great work! but i'm not sure how they teach it over in the U.S, but we were taught to dissemble in this order: Oscillator escapement barrel bridge/barrel gear train winding and setting The reason for this order is that you can check for working order of the parts as you remove parts, for example, check for the "jump" of the pallet fork after you remove the oscillator. Again, i'm glad more people are learning this trade.

NO it doesn't that is a rotor for a 289X movement, it doesn't hold a screw to fix it into place. It has 3 smaller screws that is pinned to the bridge. IT WILL NOT FIT 2824 or 2836.

you can PM me if you like and tell me what you would like to have done, i'm located in the U.S now.

hehe thanks for the kind words guys. I'm at C.U in NYC. email address is: Marrickvilleboy@NOSPAMhotmail.com (remove NOSPAM from address) I will definitely pop in from time to time, hope you guys will still be here! thats it, time to sign out!

Well my time is up, as some of you already know, i'm leaving to go to the States for study so my watch hobby will have to stop and its sad i guess....but thats life! Just wanted to thank everyone here for their input, and all the moderators for their endless work. I hope i have provided just a little to this community as its such a good forum and everyone is so nice and helpful. For the many members here who have used my services, I like to thank you and I will still provide some service to the members in the States. If you have any questions regarding modifications or need any help please don't hesistate to email me, please be patient as I may not reply instanteously. All the best everyone! and happy collecting!

sorry, you are right. they are slightly different in height but they fit the cases and are more "compatible" than the 2836. thank you for pointing it out.

genuine PO dial should fit due to the same feet positioning. To get cheaper dials of the PO you will have to wait a couple of years, just the SMP dials, they got cheaper (more readily available on ebay, etc) due to the fact that the first SMP came out early 90's. So a long wait for the PO.

2824 are the same height as 2892 (rep 2892 too) 2824s can be found of ebay for cheaper.

its been done before - genuine hands fit for both PO and SMP respectively

does the genuine PO have internal threads in the screwn down pendent/tube? like the SMPs?

you know what i would like to see? those transformers that could combine! like defensor! you know the one with the fire truck, police car, police chopper, police motorbike and ambulance? and then they would connect to form this massive robot! mann......i think i still have the toys!

very good post Bazz! a hand for him everyone! btw, remember guys, when you release the stem, use a screwdriver size 60 or 80 to push down, anything else and you'll run into issues like Kingkitesurf did.

you will need a complete service. Broken parts also cause other parts to not function well, and as finepic has stated, the broken debris could be lodge in other components. so I will advise a complete overhaul.

aahhh i know what you are trying to explain now.... yes, if you rotate the rotor you will get a synchronised "click" sound due to the rachet wheel turning over and colliding with the actual click. All is normal mate, no need to worry.

nice watch!! wear it proudly!

ok, I've tried to d/l your file, but it just keeps crashing when it hits the last second for some strange reason =( My prognosis is this, the gear that you have in the diagram circled is called the "rachet wheel", also the "clutch wheel" which is the small wheel that is perpendicular to the rachet and drives the rachet when you wind the watch manual via the stem, now generally speaking, these 2 parts should be coinciding smoothly, no jerks no compromise in consistency. What you have there is from my experience in watchmaking very minor, the occurance is generally caused by having the click spring not fitted properly, so when the screw on top of the rachet wheel is screwed down, the actual rachet wheel does not do its job. Your options are of course to have it repaired. Remember, if you attempt to do a DIY job, please be weary of the click spring which is very commonly lost when dismantling that area. I will give you some steps in which to handle this if you do attempt to do this yourself (any watchsmith can fix this for you in 5 minutes) 1. release the power of the watch so there is no tension in the mainspring. 2. Although we were taught to dismantle in a order that best suits our ability to test and onserve the movement as we go, in your case, you can just dismantle the mainspring bridge plate - only where the rachet and crown wheel are at. 3. The screw on top of the rachet is left-threaded. Make sure you remove the crown wheel first. 4. you will need to place the click spring against the click itself so it provides an in and out process for the rachet wheel. Good luck and let me know if you run into any problems.

thanks for the comment guys. Just a few more information. - genuine bezel insert installed - genuine crown and tube btw, my series number is 9369/10007, apparently, each watch is different! my serial is 8047XXXX don't know what everyone else's is. love this watch!! keeper for sure!

yes one of the 2nd generation old schoolers! very very close to the original! 2824-2 ETA movement. wear it well!

ok, here's some advice... As a watchsmith myself, we were of course taught to use the hand press tool which is like a small pen with a plastic tip at the end with a hole which gives clearance for the pinion. Now we dont all have that tool, so we can of course find a substitute. Look around in your pen/pencil case/holder and you will find one of those BIC pens - the ones that have the ink go into the tip of the pen, its usually plastic and cheap. Now if you take the ink and the tip out, you have something very similar to the hand press tool. But if you want to go harder, you can get a PACER - a mechanical pencil and the tip of that can also be used. But remember, make sure you apply even pressure on the entire hand so you dont bend or break anything. Hope this helps and good luck

nice watch! even has serial number on the lugs.. good work with the caseback, i like it!

TRC is kinda dead.... hardly any new post and barely any knowledge shared in my opinion. Lucky we have RWG.CC