alligoat

Dial feet and hand sizes for the 2824 and 2836 are the same. But w/ the 1680 case, you need to use the 2836 because of the stem position. Stem on the 2824 is too high. Eurotimez sells the 1680 case only.

I agree w/ By-Tor, the watch jmarin posted looks gen to me- even looks like a Swiss- T<25 dial. To bad he didn't start the bidding at $2500- he might have gotten somewhere- bet it doesn't sell at $3K. The first guy's a scammer!

Original MBW 1680's are actually 5513 Original Polex Design cases w/ L serials- copied from the last of the 5513's built in the late 80's, I guess. So either case should work- both take the 2836-2. If you're using an older movement, then it might not work- 2784, or whatever...

Pictures suck, but it looks like laser etching on the case, low crystal, none of the Rolex paperwork/boxes look relevant. $1200 for a rep bracelet that isn't even correct- sounds like a pile of bullcaca.

A couple of others come to mind- Natalie over at NDTrading Corp, http://ndtradingcorp.com/zen/ Kinda expensive like Phong, but good selection of vintage rolex parts. Jewelryoutlet555 is the sister company to wholesaleoutlet990, http://myworld.ebay.com/jewelryoutlet555/ Good rolex inserts, but not always the best aftermarket parts- buy w/ caution.

Poor Man's Watch forum, www.pmwf.com/, shows the 5513 insert as 36.5 OD and 30.30 ID, if it's any help. They sell a nice rep insert which people put the (aftermarket like Clark's) acrylic pearl in to make a nice gen like insert. But since you have gen, you're set!

Definitely a 'tweener'. A cross between the 1665 and 16600. With a better 1665 type dial and insert (small, all acrylic pearl), you could get back to a 1665 Comex/Sea-Dweller. Or even a 5513 dial- early unmarked Comex-type 5513 w/ HEV.

This is why people install gen/aftermarket parts- then you know you have all of the seals. A real 24-7030 case tube has two o-ring seals in it, the crown has one at the base of the stem/crown cap and there is the one on the exterior at the base of the case tube. So it's really a quad lock system! But Rolex never changed the name- the 24-702 crown and tube assembly was the first trip-lock assembly- two in the tube and one on the crown- none at the exterior of the tube. Your deal will probably still work, to 50 or 100m, maybe.

There are slight variations in plastic crystals- sounds like your T-19 is too big on the OD. Might look at Ofrei's- they have a number of T-19's. The 5513 was produced for almost 30 years- from the early 60's to 1989 so there are some slight variations- look at what Ofrei has and compare it to the ID of the 315-5513 insert. Sounds like you're building a 1680 w/ a T-19 no cyclops crystal.

1 hr and 35 minutes- $2550.00. The last minute might be fun to watch.

Yep, old boxy 4 insert replaced by a new triangular 4 insert- cool that they sent you back the old insert! I like the edge of the lug picture- no arris on the edge- that fine bevel we see from time to time on the edge of some Rolexes. Actually, I could only find it on my 1680 WM rep- not on any of my gens. Of course, all of my gens are 27 years old or older! Cool pics, thanks JJ.

I wouldn't recommend pulling the crown out to the time setting position and filing away. You're bound to get crap in the movement. Use a 1.2mm screwdriver to remove the stem. On the Asian 21j you just have to poke the release button gently while pulling the stem out. I also like to remove the case tube when I'm filing cg's- helps if you're installing gen or aftermarket parts.

I have not seen this rep yet from our dealers. But I would expect that we will see it soon- Josh, Paul or Andrew might be able to get it. I don't know this site- prices are so-so, movement is an asian eta clone marked Rolex 3135- no big deal. Case looks interesting, I don't have a problem w/ the rehaut, the M832118 SN on the case almost harks back to a noob factory SN- just one off of the old 117 last three digits of the old noobs. No crown guards and no date mag are interesting. These guys also carry the TWBest cases- those are hard to find these days- ProwatchPolo might be another dealer possibility.

Although gen sub and SD's have different insert sizes, I thought the SSD rep had the same size insert as the Subs do- Chinese engineering!

Thanks, RG. Great write-up!

I agree w/ freddy, the 1560 is the wrong movement. It actually was replaced by the 1570 in the middle 60's, and the 1570 is the correct movement for a 1665. But let's get one thing straight first, you can't make a gen watch out of rep and gen parts. The best you can hope to do is build a nice franken. Is it a good investment- probably not, IMO. Another consideration is the quality of parts, you get what you pay for and the $98 DRSD isn't a very good case to begin with. For the long term investment, you'd be better off buying a gen 1500 Oyster Perpetual Date for $1000-1250. If you want a nice rep, buy an MBW DRSD and make some mods- $500-1000 A franken DRSD- a good one will run $1500-2500. But a gen GWSD will run a min of $7K, probably and a gen DRSD- $25K up ????

Go to the Vintage Rolex Forum- someone there got beat by $100, can't remember who, way out of my league!

I can't recall seeing a gold sub w/ diamonds. Just Serti dials, in two tone. There are GMTIIC's out there with diamond bezels, can't remember if there are any in full gold. Plenty of gold DJ's w/ diamonds of every sort.

That bracelet is pretty well shot- stretched to the point of being beyond hope. If you can find someone to redo it, that would be great- I haven't found anyone yet at this point. I've got a couple that have some stretch, but luckily in much better shape than that one. Good luck, but I wouldn't pay over a couple hundred dollars, myself- actually I'd pass, but in your case, I'd say don't pay more.

Very nice, seafoam. Date mag looks great. I think there are something like four variations of the gen watch. That Robert Maron pic is interesting- note the serifs on the bezel numbers- a very pristine example.

Very nice guys. You certainly can't go wrong wearing Tudors! Great work.

The dial is attached to the movement with small pegs called dial feet, so there is really no room for movement of the dial. You could cut off the dial feet and glue the dial to the top movement ring, possibly... Once again, it's a job for a watchmaker. You might be able to reposition the dial by opening the case and loosening the hold down tabs, turn it slightly, see if it works, and retighten and close the case. These inexpensive reps are great when everything comes together correctly, but in your case, maybe you just order another watch. I don't know if it's too late to email Watcheden and see if you could send it back, but it'll cost you $15-20 for shipping. Maybe you'll get a better watch on the second go around.

Here's another one from 'generalwar' in the US. This is the same new model 116613 as the other: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROLEX-18kt-Gold-Stainless-SUBMARINER-Ceramic-116613_W0QQitemZ330379449582QQcmdZViewItemQQptZWristwatches?hash=item4cec2654ee

Yes, the #55 is what most people use- you can get it from Snap-On tools- it's a cobalt drill bit.

There's nothing wrong w/ that watch, it's gen.