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Nice choice - just recently acquired one of my own from a great member. It's a fabulous watch, in my personal top 2 in terms of out-of-box quality and accuracy..

Hi, I have 'fixed' my keyless works three times now and am at a loss... At random it seems like my stem comes free... but sometimes I reinsert it and it grabs hold again... something in the works must be sticking I assume, ad sometimes I have luck resetting it? Thanks for any brainstorms...

Thanks to both of you - I was starting from the gear side versus the stem side.... still, it was a total bear to do as I don't have a loupe. Next time I'll just buy a new, less wide datewheel! What a project this has been - stripped the crown tube threads, popped the keyless works, busted the crown, spent weeks trying to get the markers aged appropriately, snapped the lug drill bit... learning sure is expensive and time consuming (but fun)! Couldn't have done it without you all. Managed to avoid ruining the dome though, thanks goodness! Final reassmbley tomorrow. Pray for me that there are no more disasters!

So I screwed-up my keyless works and managed to fix that, but now in attempt to reinstall my datewheel I'm having trouble. The stock datewheel for my 1665 is really wide, with the impact being that I cannot get a screwdriver, pin, etc. between the wheel and the small spring. I can't get this silly thing reinstalled!!! Any tips on getting this baby back together? I suppose I could try to cut a notch but I'm sure there is an easy way to make this happen.... so simple, but soooo frustrating! Thank you.

Great! I've been waiting to upgrade my dial for some time now, hopefully you can save one for me. =) Your 201a has been fantastic for 1.5 years now and I look forward to making it even a little nicer.

PM sent - in for two.

Watch is fantastic stock, IMHO. I'll double AR mine at some point and call it a day.

I just got an OEM 24-7030-9 tube and also have a Clark's tube. The OEM is of much finer quality, but the Clark's should work (and is ~$35 cheaper). Just be sure to pick up a gen crown, huge difference versus aftermarket.

Sorry, your link isn't working for me.

Just received my OEM 7030 tube from moelarrycu. While I'm generally a fan of Clark's stuff, the quality of the Rolex part just blows his tube away. I was able to tap several turns and now have a great fit. Thanks again for the help

Thanks guys. I just picked up an OEM vintage 7030 tube. Costly but quite nice... hopefully I can salvage this situation.

I just used some Lipton tea to age my markers and matte the dial / give it some subtle vintage character. It was a total pain to get the technique down, but seems to have worked...

OK, so it's fair to say that I should forget about swimming with this... Seriously though, appreciate the feedback... didn't know if those pushers were selaed or 'moddable'

Has anyone taken their 3717 skin diving / swimming? If so, what mods, if any, did you do to improve water resistance?

Thanks to both of you. I have a tap, sadly I just got a little too forceful with it while getting the threads going. Once I realized my mistake I nearly pooed myself. Good news is that I have a nice countersink working. I could probably tap one full turn for the Clarks tube and loc-tite the rest as it sits on top of clean metal right now... but I'd rather get a few good turns. No way in heck that Clarks tube is going to fit with the exterior gasket! Got my crown from Mark, I'll hit him up for a tube as well... I cannot seem to find the correct part on the Cousin's site! It's a bummer that no other US suppliers have something comparable the Cousin's.

Not an expert, but from what I recall the gen has neither a sandwich nor sausage dial... something intermediate.

Hi, I stripped the upper part of my 1665's tube hole so now my Clarks tube (realtive short) will not thread... I need a gen / close to gen 7030 tube with longer threading in order to salvage my situation. I hear the Cousin's tube is good but I'm located in the states. Does the Jules Borel compare? Any suggestions (or does anyone want to sell me a tube?) Thanks.

Almost finished with a project? Based on your recent posts I think you and I are at a similar stage. I'm just about to put my DRSD back together today... after I am happy with the marker patina which has been a huge PITA. The crystal o-ring is part #29-317-8 (or any or ring you can fit). It's not necessary, but it cannot hurt.

Check out the subdial locations UN Movements

Also quite difficult to copy accurately... such a pity. We all could use a Freak!

I'm told the appropriate part number for a 1665 crystal o-ring is 29-317-8 but I'm having trouble sourcing one for a resonable price (i.e. >$20 for a silly piece of rubber). Any advice, perhaps a cheap alternative? Thanks.

Thanks. I'm curious as to how the tube:case connection remains watertight according to the new spec... via benefit of the threads and glue / loctite? Irrelevant, perhaps? Just for future reference, following is the alluded to picture.

Oh, so just to make sure I've got it straight - Two go inside the tube (one top and one bottom), one goes outside of the tube and another goes around the base of the crown..? I could have sworn I've seen pics of two going around the outside of the tube. If not, it certainly would help to make screwing the tube down easiers, I was worried about getting a water resistant seal between tube and case though...

OK, stupid question but I don't want to screw this up! Have a new triplock tube which came with four o-rings, the smallest clearly goes around the bootm and is screwed into the case. The largest one is a little thinner than the others, I presume it goes around the exterior top portion of the tube. Another pretty clearly goes under the crown Where does the fourth o-ring go? It is between the size of the two which go on the outside of the tube, and it happens to fit perfectly inside the top of the tube. Does it go there? Thanks