Smab

Happy Monday Since little is left in this topic, I just has to pop the answer: PAM225 Slytech 1000m Sub, white dial - limited to 300pcs. Only the rep is steel, the gen is Ti. Thinking of modifying the pearl - remove the small crystal crap in the hole of the bezel, replace it with a suitable circular lume hour marker that fits. Will make it look more like gen, even it is a long way left

Happy Friday people I am wondering if there are any experience in the community regarding straps to a PAM225 (the Slytech 47mm sub with white dial). I have searched the forums. but not much about this to find. I assume a tan strap (light or medium brown) vintage would be a good idea, but it has to be THICK, to match the over-chunky head of this model. The watch is currently on an 26x22 SS bracelet, and weighs in at 280 grams. It is so heavy, It does not get the wristtime it deserves. I have checked several sites, among others, PANATIME. Seems they have a few straps stated as 26mm and 5mm thick. It needs to be at least 5mm thick, I have a thinner strap, and it just looks odd! So a tip for a thick, perhaps vintage style strap with PRE-V buckle, preferably not more than 100USD, please? Check it out:

Happy Friday to all watchaholics :) Was fidling with one of my watches last evening, checking the interior, and thought I would take some pics while at it. Can you guess which model? TiP - it is a 47MM. BTW - nice engraving on the rotor - and it is engraved, not a sticker! I felt with my finger (in a latex glowe:-)

Good morning Jkay and thanks . The rotor defenately charges the PR nicely. Just after wearing the watch for an hour or so last night, the PR had gained significantly. So, guess this was the sollution then. Much better than shipping the watch back to China! I talked with the dealer, asking for advice, and if I should try an attempt, and the told me he would take responsibility if something went wrong during my procedyre. Great service. And such great way to learn more about watchmaking and repair. Happy weekend

Hei. Leverte min første rep til en lokal urforhandler/urmaker i Trondheim for noen år siden, for å få justert lenken. jeg hadde ikke peiling selv, men fant siden ut at det var temmelig enkelt, med en miniatyr-skrutrekker. Dette var en SuperOcean, med skrudd lenke. Verre med Omega og TAG, som har stort sett bare pinnelås i lenkene sine. De må man kanskje til urmaker for å justere, men det er mulig å utføre selv, med litt ekstra verktøy. Urmakeren påsto at skruene satt fast og han fikk ikke justert den. Foreslo å levere den der jeg hadde kjøpt den, men i min villfarelse (jeg var sylfersk på området) sa jeg rett ut at dette var en replica og at den ikke var kjøpt der han trodde (vi har en Breitling forhandler i Trh). Skulle vel heller sagt at jeg hadde kjøpt den i utlandet eller noe. Så ikke ut som han skjønte at det var en rep med det samme. Jeg sa også at det er et sveitsisk urverk i den, og hvor mye jeg hadde betalt (350USD), og han mente at det var vel temmelig lite sannsynlig og at jeg nok hadde betalt alt for mye for en klokke som ville slutte å virke etter en liten stund. åpnet selv opp klokka for en tid tilbake, og det er altså et ekte ETA 2836-2 urverk i den. Den har også gått "som en klokke" i over 3 og et halvt år, etter at jeg kjøpte den. Men etter så lang tid begynner den nå å sakke litt akterut, altså taper den litt for mange sekunder hvert døgn. Det blir slitsomt å drive å stille den frem. Hadde vært bedre om den gikk for fort. Det er nok tid for service av urverket snart, men jeg er også i villrede. Hvor?? Noen på forumet foreslår å sende den til "The Zigmeister" (en på forumet som fikser ur for medlemmer her), men det er visst i Tyskland eller østerike. Kanskje ikke helt trygt å sende over landegrensene, frakt er også dyrt. Så hjelp: noen gode gamle, urmakere i Norge, uten fordommer?

Good evening here from Scandinavia About 40 minutes of labour, and it seems my theory about the autowinding trouble, was correct. I did as described above, and now the rotor runs as it should both ways. The small spring lever somehow got stock in the wrong place and blocked everything. The watch was this way when I got it. Good thing I opened the caseback, as several of the six tiny screws holding the caseback, was not tight! So I hit to flies in one smack, if one could use such an expression. Now it remains to see if the rotor actually winds the watch. I have high hopes, since this thing fixed, seems everything inside the watch moves as it should and the rotor even makes a little bit of noise when I move my hand around. If anyone else experience this problem, the sollution is possibly here. Could not have done it without the pics from 2010 topic though (23J UN Autowind does not work). And oh: I weared latex glowes while touching the inside of the watch, do not want any fingerprints all over the rotor

Hello. Found some similar topics posted here from 2010, but it seems a sligtly different problem in my case. The UN Maxi-Marine with Asia 23J movement, with secs and date at 6, working PR at 12, has a problem with the autowinding function. The rotor is moving, but seems jerky (both directions). Only way to gain PR is to wind manually (carefully!). The PR loose juice when I am wearing the watch. After studying some pics of similar topic, I found that on my watch, I can see throuhg the caseback (sapphire see-thru), the spring lever on one side of the tooth wheel gear, is in odd position. It has slipped out of its normal position against the teeth of the tooth wheel, and sits atop the wheel, thereby obstructing the autowinding, and possibly also making the movement of the rotor look jerky. My idea is to open the caseback, then use a small tweezer and try to push the spring lever back in its opposed position. Is there any reason I should avoid trying this? What happens if I remove the rotor? Will parts fly around the room and all is ruined? Here is the pic.The second pic is the actual watch. The Cr red arrow is the correct position. The Wr arrow shows where the spring lever sits on my watch.

Happy Friday to all Trying out my new UN Maxi-Marine 45 RG. Only trouble, seems the autowind does not work. The rotor moves both directions, but seems kind of jerky. Has to manual wind, even I know one is not supposed to, due to recomendations from the Zigmeister and many more. This 23J asia movement (possibly Seagull) with Secs and date at 6 and working PR at 12, though, has a supersmooth manual wind. I have never felt such smooth wind from any rep, Swiss ETA, Asian ETA or 7750. The closest ones are 21J asia which allways seems much smoother to wind than any 2836, Swiss or Asia for that matter. Here it is:

I totally agree on this Seamaster! It has screw links in the bracelet. Only reason why I haven't purchased an Omega yet. I want one with bracelet, but hate the pin bracelets on current range.

Happy Friday people The first watch I defenately spottet as a fake, a while back, was a Breilting for Bentley Mulliner on the wrist of a guy I know from work. He is one of our company's supplier representatives, so he visit my office on a regula basis. Or it was not actually a Mulliner, but based on that design, since the Mulliner never had a big date. That is the first obvious tell. The watch I am speaking of, is one very rare Breitling, only a few is made each year, and it is the only open heart (tourbillon) design from Breilting. Since the gen is 200.000USD +, I knew, after some googling, the guy really had a cheap rep, these ones are with 21J chinese movement, and the socalled tourbillon is only the balance wheel of the movement visible through the dial. And the guy is really not a 200K USD watch guy, though I have seen him wearing other mechanial watches, so I know he is into watches in general. I do not know if he has other reps, but I shall take a close look next time he visits. I also noticed him stearing at my rep IWC Big Pilot St. Exupery , so guess he knows something about watches other than the general public. But from a distance, it looked mighty impressive, I would say all exept watch people with a genuine interest in the game, would not think of this as a fake, since it is a very unusual watch most people have no knowledge of. All people have heard of Rolex, and assuming they are all fake, since they know these are expensive watches, and that is what most people think of, when it is spoken of fake watches in general.

SuperOcean SteelFish, Swiss ETA2836-2 (verified, I opened the caseback myself to have a peak, after near 3,5 years of flawless run). One of the first socalled SuperReps. It is built like the gen with 5,5mm thick Sapphire, and the caseback is just as thick. I swear, it must way 1 ounce alone, The watch with SS bracelet is 204grams. Built like a thank. It is much heavier than the SuperAvenger (if you compare the watch head alone, since the SA has a bigger bracelet, it is 250grams all in all. I got this one from Josh. Only flaw is a small spot at the 1o'clock marker. Dough, it is only visible at macro shots, and if you are, like I, near sighted and take a close look at 6 inches away. There it is:

Hello all Breitling fans. I was playing watchmaker with my dad's old broked YachtMaster Rolesium (socalled "BeginYachty"), which lead me to the idea of opening my SFSO, blue dial Swiss ETA2836-2 edition. I used a sticky ball of tape to open the broked Yachty, as I read on the forums as a tip, if in lack of a proper caseback opener. It worked wonders - I got off the caseback, managed to detatch the stem and the crown, and was able to take the hole movement out of the case. Plastic movement holder, the cheapest ever chinese clone movement, 21J, 21600bph I believe. Interesting task, since it was my first atempt to do such a thing. Now I feel I am able to try and learn more about watch movements, changing movements, maybe changing dials and such, but I am still a novice, and only dare this because the watch was already broken. Of course I remembered I allways wanted to have a look inside my SFSO, to see if it really was a gen ETA. I finally dared try, and used the same sticky ball of tape. The caseback sat quite hard, but I was beeing as carefull as I was able, and it finally came loose. First of all - this must be the most impressive caseback ever! Inside it has a kind of beautiful consentric pattern, which is very nice to hold under a light, it makes all kinds of reflections and glitters - and engraved "Breitling" "Swiss Made" in the middle. So much effort making a part, that will be invisible to most owners, apart from the few opening up the watch, or the watchmakers dooing service. I am truly impressed! And the caseback is so thick, I think it must be close to 30 grams (1 ounce)! If all gaskets were really well made and lubed, I think this watch, at least in theory, was able to be 1000m waterproof, as claimed by the cartel dealers. But finally, the inside: Yes, it is confirmed - a nickelplated gen ETA 2836-2 movement, with all proper markings and engravings. Running very well for the last 3,5 years, since I bought the watch from Josh. I even remembered the local AD (not Breiting AD, but Omega, TAG and other brands), when I as a novice, and total noob, made a visit, asking him to adjust the bracelet, I had no clue it was so easy with simple tools, but he did not manage, telling there must be something wrong with the bracelet. He asked why I did not adjust it where I got it, but I told him it is not possible, since I got it from China(!) As a total noob, I told it was a replica. I should have told him I bought it somewhere abroad or something, but said is said. I added "but it has a gen swiss movement"... "Oh, I think not!" he said, he was sure I had paid much way too much (about 350USD I told him that as well!), guessing it would not work for long. But, it has been sweet for 3,5 years now., so guess he was wrong then! So, the next challenge, where to find a watchmaker in central Norway, taking service on a gen ETA, but in a replica case??? Any tip? I think it will be time for service soon, as the manual wind is not very smooth, and it looses a few seconds per day. In beginning it gained a few seconds.

Got info from the dealer also - asking why they have changed. They said all these PAMS are low.beat 7750 - since this is a non-chrono and the seconds hand on a PAM is so small the different beatrate is not visible anyway, I settle with this beeing a good one, all considerations taken. In the meantime I have even ordered a PAM236-K on an all brushed SS bracelet. I think this model is maybe the cleanest dial of all of these Daylight series. And the all-brushed finish gives it the understatement on such a beautiful piece. So, two PAMS on their way, may not reach before xmas, but I have other items ordered earlier, as well. I have learned, allways order several at the same time, even from different dealers, then if one is a dissapointment or is delayed, you allways have a second (or third or fourth) backup:-) A total of 5 watches ordered before xmas this year. Hope one or more of them will be a 1:er:-)

Hi to you all. I was sitting here, looking over the QC pics from one of our trusted dealers, once more, suddenly I realise that the timing computer picture, shows beat 21600(!), all I took notice to at first was the excellent +6secs per day and the pics looked ok. Must be a week since I approved them. It is still on hold because my other items had issues on the QC pics, and are not solved yet. I noticed something on QC and complaned, then they tried to fix it and ending up making it worse, in stead of just swapping to another item in stead. One week waiting now, guess none of the items will be here before xmas. The dealer has 3 versions of the PAM359, I was careful and ordered the latest, called Best Edition V2. The oldest one is outdated as stated on the website, and the second is still available (updated), but why should I order something less than the newest edition, right? Wrong(!) - looks like they have swapped to the old, outdated, crap A7750b (low-beat 21600) in the newest edition. It does not state 28800bph on the description, but so does it on the older models. When I carefully examine the dealer pics of the movement, it is also visible that there is different movement of the two. The newest edition has even a lesser decorated movement, than the older version, even the watch has a display caseback, showing the movement in all it's glory. This is like backwards logics to me. You do not upgrade something to a lesser quality grade, or do they in this business? Seems they also have the same crap movement in the PAM351, as much as I can tell out of the pictures, and in all of the series 312, 320, 328, 329 and 359 where they have made a socalled Best Edition V2 (2011). All of the V2 editions seems to have the less favourable low-beat movement, also with worse decoration. I must emphasise, I shall not name names here, but mearly seek advise. Therefore, no name on the dealer, but it is out of our trusted dealers selection, so should be good, normally. Why on earth would they do such a thing? Since I approved QC-pics, I guess I am scr**d, and this was not expected at all. Any advise?

Happy Friday:) Came over this item on EBAY, looks like a steal at that price, but Hey - no box, no papers... Pics not too good either, may this be one of the older reps? It has no ball bearing on the CW lever, like the new rep at our trusted dealers. It also has a small quick-change date button at 10 o'clock. Does the GEN have that? Why should the guy sell it at 1/3 of the retail price, it is a collectors item, only 2800 pcs made. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panerai-Luminor-Daylight-Chronograph-PAM-250-K-Series-NO-RESERVE-/190591588495?_trksid=p4340.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DPI.WATCH%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D15%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3790378748919607008 Opinions?

Hi. That is the 22mm version. SA has 24mm lugs and my strap is the "Geneva" model...

Good evening (here in Europe) to you all Thanks for the great feedback As an additional info, I can assure you that I had in mind the black dial and red markings on the subdials, when I ordered this strap. It is also a Breitling-style strap, meaning it is fairly thick at the lug (approx 7,4mm) and tapers towards the buckle end. The leather quality is great considering the price, and it has a nice matte finish, which matches the dial very well. I will atempt to add more decent pictures when I get back from our pre-easter holiday. Will hopefully be back online (and battery charged!) tomorrow evening. Meanwhile, I have a couple of shots, but they are not very great (cellphone)... Enjoy and happy holidays

Hi all! After ordering my SA with black dial and SS bracelet, I ordered some straps to go from another aftermarket strap vendor. I must say, for the black dial SA with batton markers, this strap is a bullseye in the middle (or something.,.) - Here together with the infamous blue SFSO ultimate, the poor SFSO looks rather small, even it is a 44mm. Nothing compared to the giant SA. Think this strap is awesome, and it is a steal at the price, only about 30USD (Meyhofer). Real smooth leather with red stitches and edges. Great buy. Comments?

Howdy. I am not sure, but I just thought I recognise this look from recently - Might it be a MontBlanc Sport Chrono 200M? Take a look here: http://www.1-pc8838.com/mb01011-sport-chrono-200m-ssss-black-asia-7750-28800bph-p-3871.html

Hi there, same here, I also ordered mine on an SS bracelet - I ordered some straps from Germany beside this order, I am afraid the SS togheter with the big watch will be too much weight. I have a PAM228 (Slytech 1000M sub)SS with 26mm SS bracelet, it is a 47mm watch, 19mm thick, and with the SS bracelet it weighs 280 grams. That is a little more than I will get used to on a daily basis, but for now and then it is wearable. The SA with leather strap should come in around 100 grams lighter than that, it will be like a feather compared, but it will be enough weight on my wrist still

I is very sorry, but my english am not so bad It shall of course be: "batton markers is TWO pieces", not to pieces. They used to be made of ONE picece on the prior batton markers dial edition (realeased 2009). The old one is still on PC's site, with the rubber strap/OD strap. That looks like the same watch, but there are 1 year apart in the entries on the site.

I is very sorry, but my english am not so bad It shall of course be: "batton markers is TWO pieces", not to pieces. They used to be made of ONE picece on the prior batton markers dial edition (realeased 2009). The old one is still on PC's site, with the rubber strap/OD strap. That looks like the same watch, but there are 1 year apart in the entries on the site.

Picked up a few of my watches, and got an idea, as they were lying togehter on my table - the inspiration for the title was taken from the Sergio Leone "Spaghetti Western" Motion Picture "The Good, The Bad and The Ugly" (with Clint Eastwood) - not that I think one of the three watches are neither, but together they are pretty amusing, here we see a lot of different design and attitude from the different brands (in this case Rolex, Panerai and IWC), and the size span is from the sleek 40mm TT Blue sub up to the almost ridiculous 47mm and 19mm thick Slytech 1000m Submersible with a 26mm SS aftermarket bracelet (Panerai never made a bracelet for this big watch, as far as I know). The PAM228 with the SS bracelet is a staggering 280 grams (more than 1/2 IBS/pound), since the REP is SS, whereas the GEN is Ti - compared, the small TT blue sub is like a feather with its hollow YG plated midlink bracelet, with less gold (chinese plated) than in my backyard, as far as I can imagine Here they are, enjoy

So I finally pulled the trigger on the SA with 2008 black dial and batton markers.. Have been researching this piece for quite some time. For a long time I was not sure about this or the black 2009 numeral markers edition. Seems the batton markers dial is the most accurate so far. An update here, seems the "newest" entries on dealers site (december 2010) has batton markers that seem to be to pieces, rather than the first 2009 entries editions. I have only the picture as reference, but they have at least fixed the 6 o-clock issue with subdial numerals with small and big font on the prior versions (the one copied directly from the blacksteel dial), which is unaccurate on the regular SS editions. The subdial now have the correct numerals in same size font. I will post pics of this baby when I have it safe and unwrapped. I have also ordered a few leather straps from a german vendor (Meyhofer), I am exited to see if these are of acceptable quality, they are very reasonable priced indeed (only about 21-25usd each, half price of the straps from China). Among others some black straps with red stiching, that I think will be nice together with the clean black dial with red fonts on the "Automatic" at 6 o-clock subdial, and the red markings on the 12 o-clock subdial as well as the red tip at the central seconds hand. The straps have the same "Breitling-style" padding as the gen straps and are about 7mm at the lug end and tapers to about 3,5mm at the tip (buckle end). These straps are of course not premium quality that you might get at 100 usd or more, but I think they are much better than the straps with Breitling markings we can get from the China dealers. Are there anyone who has purchased a SA 2008/2009 dial after december 10th 2010? It might have some updates compared to the ones they put up on the shops the year before, I thing from the pictures. I am excited...

Update: I have learned that the models on some (or all) of our dealers shops, does not have AR, and it seems they also have the "old" A7750 with 21600 beats/s. At least one dealer states 21600, the others say nothing about the beatrate. Another issue is that at least one dealer states "no AR", and if all of these come from the same factory, it means no AR on all variations (SS/TT/RG/PVD). I just pulled the trigger on a SA 2008 batton markers, so the Hysek will have to wait for a while, maybe they will do more with it or nothing, depends on the demand. Since I find little info on the board, and no one has posted any pics of purchasing a Hysek so far, I have my doubts.